The monthly Wine Focus discussions are now held in the main Wine Forum (above). The forum remains open as an archive, but please post comments and questions in the Wine Forum.
User avatar
User

Ian Sutton

Rank

Spanna in the works

Posts

3652

Joined

Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:10 pm

Location

Norwich, UK

WTN: Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 1998

by Ian Sutton » Fri Apr 24, 2009 7:09 pm

Perhaps an odd choice for a wine focus on VFM/QPR, but I'll disclose the price at the end. I've also included previous comments and interestingly I suspect the price paid, reflects in the lack of detail in the notes - which really don't do the wine the justice it deserves.

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (4/20/2009)
Opened at cellar temperature, hence initially quite tight.
Certainly showing brown/orange at the rim, but not excessively so, especially for the grape.

Fragrant nose with typical sweet & ''lifted' aroma.

On the palate, vibrant acidity and supple tannins give good structure, but still allow fragrant fruit to play out. As it warmed so it opened a little, but remained still remained pretty tight. More cellar time required here.

__________________________________________

The remaining half bottle, four days after opening (cork popped back in original bottle)

Slightly more lift to the nose, but not vastly different, if anything perhaps a touch more expressive.
Still very firm tannins, but seems a little more open. Also a suggestion of almond/popcorn on the finish which is unusual and I suspect an oxidative character.

Really should keep the remaining bottles set aside for another 5-10+ years

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (7/19/2008)
Quite youthful rich purple colour. Expressive and slightly stinky nose. On the palate, quite classical nebbiolo with good depth.

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (5/14/2007)
Still showing signs of improvement and still benefitting from significant time to breathe.

I'm pretty confident this is ageing well and I'd expect it to improve for another 5-8+ years

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (1/28/2007)
Although used for cooking, the stove top Pigeon breasts cooked over 3 hours with a third of a bottle of this in the marinade was stunning. The first time I've seen how a good wine can make a difference in cooking.

Whilst the beef done in the oven also had this wine, I never got the sauce reduced enough, so the gravy was finished in a pan with some cornflour. It was still lovely, but the extra concentration in the other sauce showed the wine off much better. A cooking lesson learned!

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/28/2006)
Somewhat less funky than our previous bottle, this one showed great balance and classical lines. Should be good for a few years cellaring, but enjoyable now nonetheless.

1998 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (12/22/2006)
A little high-toned and the oak treatment slightly obtrusive. Minor points though, otherwise fine.


The price....? From auction~ £110 for 23 bottles about two years ago. IIRC my commission bid was ~ £190 and I was slightly surprised to win the lot, but the hammer price was the real shock.

Worth? - I'd not feel unhappy at €25 a bottle, which is the sort of price you might find it at retail in Italy.

regards

Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
no avatar
User

MichaelB

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

152

Joined

Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:32 pm

Location

Sierra southmost, California

Re: WTN: Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 1998

by MichaelB » Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:35 am

Thanks for the extensive TNs, Ian! I bought a case of Cantina del Pino 04 "regular bottling" (said to contain some grapes from Ovello) for a good price and was put off by the wildly conflicting tar and vinagar, but your notes give me hope--maybe in a few years, the wine will be worth drinking. The 2001 version of basic Cantina del Pino was very, very good!
User avatar
User

Ian Sutton

Rank

Spanna in the works

Posts

3652

Joined

Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:10 pm

Location

Norwich, UK

Re: WTN: Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 1998

by Ian Sutton » Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:55 pm

Michael
FWIW I don't mind a little volatile acidity in my Nebbiolos - but in moderation. I don't suppose the (perceived) level of VA in the 98s have changed much, if anything. If it was really vinegary, then my hope would be that was just a bad bottle.

IIRC the standard bottling isn't much cheaper than the Ovello (and 2004 is highly regarded), hence I would have expected your's to have been a decent bottle (with a medium to long term future)

regards

Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign