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WTN: Before I go . . .

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Florida Jim


Wine guru




Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:27 pm


St. Pete., FL & Sonoma, CA

WTN: Before I go . . .

by Florida Jim » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:32 pm

I’m gone to CA tomorrow; a few notes to post before I go:

1996 Jadot, Clos St. Denis:
Luden’s cough drops and dirt on the nose with considerable bottle bouquet, fairly tight; linen texture in the mouth with dark cherries and earth tones, slightly more giving than the nose, intense, very fine but noticeable tannins; moderate length, slightly drying. Nothing here indicates grand cru, yet.

2002 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie:
A bit muddy on both the nose and palate and not much sense of place either. Not a bad wine, just not drinking now.

1999 Jaboulet, Cornas:
Funky smells and flavors at first but this rounds into a complex, earth driven wine with some syrah markers and a good dose of Cornas terroir. Better than expected considering a bottle two years ago was mediocre.

2000 V. Dauvissat, Les Clos:
Chablis does not get much better, even though this was showing young. Very full flavored with lemon drop, citrus peel, stone and fresh water scents and flavors, real depth and intensity, excellent concentration and great acidity – as I said, none much better. I’ll hold the rest of mine until at least 2012.

2002 Taluau, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV:
Tobacco leaf, cherry-cranberry and some mineral notes – the vegetative elements of the nose do not go over into green bell pepper; medium weight, a little grit in the texture at first but it smoothes, bright fruit, intense but not especially concentrated; medium finish. Nice wine with sausages, white beans and cabbage but probably needs a couple years to resolve. No doubt its Loire cab franc.

2002 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Excelsior – Terroir de Schistes:
Just beautiful; terrific aromatics and a bright but viscous palate with all sorts of complexity, citrus, white pepper, lemon curd – I could go on . . . but suffice to say, lovely, lovely wine.

2005 Mondavi, Cabernet Sauvignon:
Oak drek. It isn’t just the matter of an oak smell or flavor, it’s the way the wood insinuates itself into every fiber of smell and flavor, each to become soured and tainted so as to be indistinguishable from a damaged wine. I suspect this was at least decent juice to start with but the barrel treatment assures that it never will be again.

2005 Dom. Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:
The glorious breath of Bacchus after the preceding wine; pure, almost haunting aromas of talc, wild strawberry and mineral – so utterly captivating; focused, medium weight wine with flavors that follow the nose with nuance, bright and intense; long finish with just a hint of structure showing. The impression I get is that this is only a glimpse of coming attractions but such a perfectly orchestrated one that one can’t help but be entranced. Very Fleurie. Just as good on day two.

2006 Do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas:
Has shed its initial baby fat softness and is now crisp, deep, spicy (almost a ginger note), strongly flavored and very long. As good an albariño as I have ever had. Truly a memorable wine.

2004 Dom. Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords:
Like mountain spring water; cool, crisp, fresh, charming. Still quite primary but equally, delicious.

2004 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin:
Some sulpher, sweat and funk on the nose with pomegranate, moist earth and truffle tones; very complex in the mouth and hard to describe, light weight but intense, with a series of textures on the palate seemingly dependent upon how much you have swallowed. An odd yet fascinating wine and not to everyone’s taste. Made of poulsard.

2005 D’Angerville, Bourgogne:
Sappy, forward pinot with firmness, depth and clarity; worthy of premier cru status, at least. All the fruit of the vintage and all the structure of D’Angerville. Worth every penny of the $30 paid.

N/V Larmandier-Bernier, Blanc de Blanc Champagne:
Maybe a touch sweet but otherwise a flavorful, starter wine witn a good bead and a nice finish.

2007 Scholium Project, Naucratis:
Verdjo done to the nth degree; a bit too sweet on the attack for me but strongly flavored and very pretty wine that matches well with a squash/corn soup.

1998 G. Conterno, Barolo:
Smells and feels more like pinot than nebbiolo; lightweight, floral, anise; feminine to a degree I did not expect.

2002 Huet, Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont:
Much less sweet than on release (how does that happen?), well supported with acidity, and very nice with a goat cheese and fig paste desert. Good wine that could use more time but was completely acceptable now.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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