Founded by the late Daniel Rogov, focusing primarily on wines that are either kosher or Israeli.
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Daniel Rogov

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WTN: A Potpourri of Wines From Giaconda

by Daniel Rogov » Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:12 am

As those who have been following my posts for the last 72 hours or so may have noticed, these have been busy days. Five wine tastings, three lunches, three dinners, four coffee meetings and one lecture given. And they wonder how wine and restaurant critics maintain their sanity…….

Whatever, Tuesday morning (11 November) found me once again at Giaconda, this time for a tasting best categorized as "mixed" – with whites and reds from Germany, Alsace, Lirac and Ribera del Duero. No complaints though – the women of Giaconda make a fine cup of espresso and even give me permission to smoke at the open window of their kitchen.

My tasting notes follow. Prices given are subject to a 10% discount to the members list (subscription is free). For further information or to place orders phone 03 6022746

Best
Rogov

Heymann-Lowenstein, Riesling, Shieferterrassen, Mosel, 2006: Light golden, opening with notes reminiscent of spring flowers and toasted butternuts, those parting to reveal peach and apricot notes and finishing with a hint of bitter almonds. Not so much a fruity wine as a nutty-floral one. Drink now-2012. NIS 120. Score 88. (Re-tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Mark Tempe, Riesling, Burgreben, Alsace, 2001: Taste this one blind and, as with many of the Tempe wines you might take an oath that this was a German and not an Alsatian wine. Fair enough though, for although the wine has the distinct petrol nose of many German wines, it goes on to show generous notes of green tea, apples and peach jam, those with a tantalizing hint of sweetness and all backed up by finely balanced acidity and, on the long finish a hint of marzipan. Drink now-2016. Score 90. (Tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Mark Tempe, Riesling, Mambourg, Grand Gru, Alsace, 2000: Fine balance here between moderate sweetness, acidity and spices, those opening to reveal generous notes of baked apples, crème patisserie and a generously spiced crème Catalan. A long and generous wine with the alcohol rising on the very long finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 320. Score 91. (Tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Mark Tempe, Gewurztraminer, Zellenberg, Alsace, 2005: Opens with an oily nose that one might take for Riesling but that yields in the glass to aromas and flavors of litchis, rose petals and minerals. Categorized as half-sweet but with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively and an unfolding note of eucalyptus honey to add fascination. Drink now-2011. Score 90. (Tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Mark Tempe, Gewurztraminer, Mambourg, Grand Cru, Alsace, 2003: Deep gold in color, with a nose resplendent with caramel and coconut, opening in the glass to reveal pineapple and apricot fruits, all on a mineral-rich background. Long and complex, still remarkably youthful but drinking beautifully now-2014. NIS 312. Score 92. (Tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Chateau d'Aqueria, l'Heritage, Lirac, 2005: Dark garnet, with gently caressing tannins and a gentle wood influence. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Clairette, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Bourboulenc, opening to show blackberries, cherries and currants, those supported nicely by notes of tobacco and earthy minerals. Drink now-2010. NIS 188. Score 89. (Tasted 11 Nov 2008)

Bodegas Montecastro y llanahermosa, Ribera del Duero, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal purple, with firmly gripping near-sweet tannins set off nicely by spicy wood and fresh acidity. Opens slowly in the glass at this stage and as it does revealing generous black fruits and appealing notes of Oriental spices. A complex wine, approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2020. NIS 166. Score 92. (Tasted twice, once directly from the bottle, once after decantage 11 Nov 2008)

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