Founded by the late Daniel Rogov, focusing primarily on wines that are either kosher or Israeli.
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Daniel Rogov

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Chablis - The Wines of Moreau-Naudet

by Daniel Rogov » Thu Jun 17, 2010 4:51 pm

This morning, even though it was as hot in Tel Aviv as I imagine Hell to be, I made my way to Giaconda to do a tasting of the Chablis wines of Domaine Moreau-Naudet. Giving credit where credit is due, whatever it is that has to be done, Stéphane Moreau seems to be doing it very well indeed. With vines that are trimmed carefully to ensure low but fine yield, with harvesting done entirely by hand, and by using his oak barrels judiciously enough so that his wines show only the barest and most tantalizing hints of wood, his wines show a remarkable elegance.

Tasting at Giaconda is always a pleasure for me, Anat Sela and Rafaella Ronen continuing to import wines of quality and interest and at almost always good prices. More than that, this dynamic duo shows the good taste at my tastings not to try to "sell" but to present their wines. And, if an important truth be revealed, they do allow me to smoke in the kitchen and their espresso coffee is always good.

Following are my tasting notes for the wines sampled this morning. The wines are available directly from the importer and the prices given are for those who belong to their members' club. Considering that membership is free, a very good investment indeed. Giaconda's internet site is located at http://www.giaconda.co.il/

Best
Rogov

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Petit Chablis, 2007: Petit Chablis indeed but showing the classic Chablis traits of minerality and crisp acidity. Lively and fresh, with green gage plums, gooseberries and pears supported comfortably by hints of granite and flint, sits comfortably and long on the palate. Lovely with langoustines or grilled coquilles St. Jacques. Drink now-2011. NIS 92. Score 89. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Vieilles Vignes, Les Pargues, 2006: Light, shining gold in color, developed partly in barrels for several months and mostly in stainless steel and showing crisply dry. With gentle flinty and stony minerals, a very tempting Chablis showing notes of citrus, Anjou pears and but resting softly on the palate, a mineral-rich white with tantalizing notes of white pepper. Generous, long and in fine balance. Perfect with raw oysters but don't hesitate to serve this one with nearly any grilled or fried fish or seafood offering. Drink now-2012. NIS 148. Score 90. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Premier Cru, Vaillons, 2006: Made from 50 year old vines, showing fine balance between acidity, fruits and minerals, 1/3 of this wine was fermented in barrels, the remainder in stainless steel before being blended and aged in oak for an additional year. Because the barrels are well-used one finds only a bare and tantalizing hint of the oak, the floral, fruity and spicy elements rising nicely. Harmonious, graceful and elegant a lovely match to schnitzel a la Holstein or Cordon Bleu. Drink now-2018. NIS 171. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Premier Cru, Les Forets, 2006: Aged partly in used oak and partly in stainless steel, with gentle notes of spicy wood to complement aromas and flavors of green gage plums, huckleberries and pears, a medium- to full-bodied white with generous minerals that rise nicely to complement the fruit. As the wine continues to develop look as well for hints of salt water and iodine. For those who may not see such descriptors very often, believe me, they can be very positive indeed. Drink now-2014. NIS 171. Score 90. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Premier Cru, Montmains, 2006: Light glistening gold in color, medium-bodied, opens with a quiet nose and palate but that blossoms nicely as the wine opens in the glass. On first attack a tempting blend of sea water and citrus, those going on to reveal notes of citrus flowers and lime, all on a generously rich mineral background. Not so much a lively wine as one that is intricate, complex and elegant. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. NIS 171. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, light gold in color, showing generous ripe summer and citrus fruits, those complemented nicely indeed by notes of spring flowers and spicy wood. Showing through a fine array of earthy, granite and flinty minerals that linger long and comfortably on the palate. Drink now-2014. NIS 190. Score 91. (Tasted 17 Jun 2010)

Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis, Grand Cru, Valmur, 2006: Developed partly in wood, partly in stainless steel, showing a moderate influence of spicy oak to highlight aromas and flavors of citrus fruits and peel, summer fruits and an elegant overtone of flinty minerals. Crisply dry, full bodied and long with refreshing acidity and a light cream note that rise on the finish. Best from 2012-2022. NIS 320. Score 93.

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