Founded by the late Daniel Rogov, focusing primarily on wines that are either kosher or Israeli.
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Daniel Rogov

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Weingut Georg Breuer: A Tasting With Giaconda

by Daniel Rogov » Thu Sep 16, 2010 4:21 pm

Giaconda is far from the largest local wine importer but in the four years since the company started their operations they have consistently imported wines that can comfortably be categorized as of extraordinary high quality. Equally important, partners Anat Sela and Rafaella Ronen offer prices that are competitive on an international level, that partly due the company policy of selling directly to clients and not having to maintain a brick-and-stone store.

The latest label to appear from Giaconda is that of Weingut Georg Breuer. With vineyards and the winery in the Rheingau region of Germany, the winery relies on biodynamic principles. Whether one agrees with the metaphysical aspects of biodynamics is unimportant. What is important is that through time tested low-tech methods the Breuer wines are often superb.

Yesterday evening (Wednesday, 15 September) I attended a tasting at which winemaker Hermann Schmoranz presided. Indeed these wines were well matched with the culinary brilliance of chef Meir Adoni of Tel Aviv's Catit Restaurant*. My tasting notes follow.

The wines may be purchased from Giaconda's internet site at http://www.giaconda.co.il or by telephoning (03) 6022746.


Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Berg Nonnenberg, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Categorized as half-dry but with enough minerality and acidity to give it a crisply refreshing note. Light shining bold, medium-bodied, deeply aromatic and with a nose that hints of citrus and bananas,. On the palate an array of citrus and tropical fruits, those with a tantalizing hint of marzipan. Drink now-2016. NIS 260. Score 90.


Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Berg Rottland, Erste Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Light gold with orange and green reflections, a dry, mineral-rich wine on which a tempting note of traditional Riesling petrol creeps in quietly. On te nose and palate white peaches, baked apples, spices and honeyed notes. Elegant and long. Drink now-2017. NIS 260. Score 91.

Weingut Georg Breuer, Riesling, Roseneck, Erst Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: Shining gold in color with green and orange tints, medium-bodied, and crisply dry, with citrus and apple fruits on first attack, those yielding to notes of guava, pineapple and minerals, all complemented by a note of a forest floor after a light rain. Lively, complex and elegant. Drink now-2018. NIS 300. Score 92.

Weingut Georg Breuer, Berg Schlossberg, Erst Gewachs, Grand Cru, Rheingau, 2007: An aromatic white, with hints of petrol and marzipan on the nose. Shining gold with green tints, medium-bodied but concentrated, showing crisply dry with generous notes of pears, passion fruit and citrus peel, all on a mineral-rich background. Graceful and elegant. Drink now-2020. NIS 340. Score 93.

Weingut George Breuer, Nonnenberg, Auslese, Gold Kapsel, 2007: A dessert wine par-excellence. Deep gold with orange and green reflections, showing ample botrytis influence and with its whopping 145 grams of sugar balanced almost perfectly by crisp acidity. On the nose and palate dried figs, yellow peaches, citrus and citrus peel, those supported nicely by notes of exotic spices. A concentrated wine with honeyed overtones that run from first attack through to a long, long finish. Fully enjoyable now but best 2013-2040, perhaps longer. NIS 380. Score 97.

As to the menu:

-Ceviche of Red Tuna on a Capaccio of Beets with White Soya and Mirin, Thse topped with yoghurt and wassabi tobko
-Grilled Calamari filled with Lamb with a Salad of Humous Beans, Ginger and Raisins
-Fillet of Sea Bass Topped with A Crust of Mushrooms, served on a Jerusalem Artihoke Confit, Porcini Mushrooms and Thyme
-Veal Brain and Sweetbreads with Pickled Lemons, A Green Garlic Cream, Gnocchi, all in a light Veal and Red Wine Sauce
-With the Dessert Wine – A Mini Platter of Fine Cheeses served with Thin Slices of Toasted Raisin and Fruit Bread

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