One of the Best Kosher Wines Ever!

During the past three weeks I have had almost daily calls from various international delivery services, those bringing to me more than 130 kosher wines from nearly every region in France, many of very small cuvees and the vast majority of these being offered for sale only in France and Switzerland. Although it is now too late for those wines to appear in my soon-to-be released (30 December) kosher guide, they will all be in the 2012 guide and thus known to those who will be travelling in France.

Truth be told, about half of the wines I've tasted so far earn scores of between 80-85, some going to the 86-89 category and a few over 90. Today's tasting contained one of those "oh-wow" wines, a wine that from first sip made my eyes open more widely and my nostrils flare just a bit. A bit of checking shows that the wine, a limited cuvee, is available only in a few wines shops in Bordeaux and in Geneva and is going for the equivalent of US$ 225-300. My tasting note follows.

Best
Rogov


Domaine Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2005: 98% Merlot blended with 2% Cabernet Franc to yield what is perhaps the best ever kosher cuvee out of Bordeaux. Full-bodied, with silky tannins that caress oh-so-gently and a bare and tantalizing hint of spicy cedar wood. On first attack raspberries, black and red currants and a generous note of spices, those parting to make room for notes of black olives and espresso coffee. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Approachable and enjoyable now but best only from 2015 and then cellaring comfortably until 2030, perhaps longer. Score 95. K

Would it be too much trouble to list the top 5-10 french wines with their tasting notes?

Mike, Hi...

Following is a list of those kosher French wines that have earned scores of 91 or more. Note please that I have listed only one vintage year for each chateau.

It is no coincidence that all of the wines listed are from Bordeaux. Nor is it coincidence that many of the wines from different vintrages years of these same chateaux also succed in attaining 90 or more points. Not far from there on any list of "best" would be the dozen or more wines that earn 90 points. To follow up on those, best bet is a copy of Rogov's Guide to Kosher Wines.

Because each of the wines listed below is a kosher edition, I have omitted the usual "K" symbol following each tasting note.

Best
Rogov

Domaine Roses Camille, Pomerol, 2005: 98% Merlot blended with 2% Cabernet Franc to yield what is perhaps the best ever kosher cuvee out of Bordeaux. Full-bodied, with silky tannins that caress oh-so-gently and a bare and tantalizing hint of spicy cedar wood. On first attack raspberries, black and red currants and a generous note of spices, those parting to make room for notes of black olives and espresso coffee. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Approachable and enjoyable now but best only from 2015 and then cellaring comfortably until 2030, perhaps longer. Score 95.

Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, 2005: Whoever is “doing it” at Pontet-Canet is doing it very well indeed, and this kosher edition, although not quite the regular edition (which scores a generous 95 points) is just fine on its own. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. On first attack currants and mint, those opening to reveal blackberry, licorice and mineral notes and, on the super-long finish, the tannins and fruits rising along with a generous note of espresso coffee. Drink now-2025. Score 93.

Château Quinault, Saint-Émilion, 2005: The first kosher edition released from this château, and certainly a winner. Dark, almost impenetrable ruby toward garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy oak. On first attack blackberries and cassis, those yielding to raspberries and black cherries, all on a background that hints of dark minted chocolate. Long and generous. Drink now–2022. Score 93.

Château Léoville Poyferré, St.-Julien, 2005: Perhaps the best kosher edition ever from Léoville Poyferré. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet toward royal purple in color, full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and just the right hint of spicy and vanilla-rich oak. On first attack, blackcurrants and blackberries, those followed by hints of blueberries and, on the long finish, notes of lightly minted chocolate. Drink now-2018, perhaps longer. Score 92.

Château de Valandraud, Saint-Émilion, 2001: Dark garnet toward royal purple, opens with firm tannins and super-generous smoky and spicy wood, but given time in the glass (or perhaps the decanter) opens to reveal that those tannins and wood are now integrating nicely, even softening on the palate, and revealing near-sweet plum, berry and cassis fruits along with hints of white chocolate. Long and generous. Drink now–2014. Score 92.

Château Lafon Rochet, St.-Estèphe, 2001: Holding its own very nicely, a dark-garnet, full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (55%, 40% and 5% respectively), continues to show as well now as in its youth. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry and raspberry fruits, those complemented by notes of dark chocolate and green olives. Drink now-2014. Score 91.

Château Malartic Lagravière, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac-Léognan, 2005: An always-reliable and often-exciting Château. Full-bodied, dark garnet, with generous tannins and spicy oak but those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. On the nose and palate currants, blackberries, wild berries and mocha. From mid-palate on notes of what seems to be bittersweet chocolate at one moment, mocha at the next and finishing with an appealing note of sweetened chewing tobacco. Approachable now but best 2012-2020. Score 91.

Château Malmaison, Baronne Nadine de Rothschild, Moulis, 2005: Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, with smooth tannins and opening in the glass to reveal currant, wild berry and citrus peel notes all leading to a long chocolate-rich finish. Drink now-2020. Score 91.

Hi Rogov,

Interesting.

A couple of questions:

1) Is there a real winery or it's just a brand made somewhere else?
2) Do they make non kosher wines as well?

Thanks
Eran

Eran, Hi...

Domaine Roses Camille is a "real" winery - indeed a garagiste whose first release in 2005 was of 900 bottles. Current production is about 6,000 bottles annually and plans are to grow to about 12,000. First production was entirely kosher. I am not certain of the current directions but yesterday sent off several inquiries by email.

You can find information about Roses Camille at http://www.sommelier-vins.com/article-13486987.html That is not the winery's own site (I do not believe they are yet online), so I'll have to wait to hear from the owner-winemaker to get more firm details.

Best
Rogov

Rogov,

did you taste the 2006 Domaine Roses Camille?

Michael, Hello...

I am not yet even aware that a 2006 wine has been released. If you have further information on this, please let us know.

Thanks
Rogov

I believe it has been released in France and is Kosher (I believe they stopped the Kosher process after 2006).

Thanks, Michael...

I am sending off an email to my contact in France and will follow up on my next visit in January.

Best
Rogov

He produced 2005 and 2006, at least those are the ones available now. Not presently in the US, but he's working on it.

A boutique winery, who's first couple of vintages were entirely kosher, and us now going broader?

And he makes excellent wine? How strange?!?

Also, are these prices different than the prices for the non-kosher wines?

I mean are they significantly different?

I know Israel does not have the same history, but the ROM doesnt seem nearly as overpriced in this context

Rogov - did you ever hear back from the wine maker / winery with more information?

Yossie, Hi.....

Not a word. I will be following up during an upoming visit to Bordeaux

Best
Rogov

I was in touch with him. You can import it yourself through various wine customs brokers. Or, have it sent to a friend in France who will mail it back to you.

Daniel, do you have a note for Copie de Château Fonbadet 2000?

Also the Pommard Chanlain 2002

Thanks

Menachem, Hi....

Let's start off with the good news - that is to say the review of the Perrin Pommard about which you inquired.

Perrin, Pommard Chanlain, Burgundy, 2002: A well-made Pommard, dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a light earthy note to highlight red currant and blackberry fruits, those parting from mid-palate on to reveal hint of what at one moment seems to be mint, at another licorice, all leading to a long finish on which the tannins and fruits rise together. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88.

And now to the bad news, the kind of news that makes you wonder why some shops keeps wines on their shelves long after they have gone on to puppy paradise*. Fonbadet released two kosher editions in 2000 and the tasting notes for both of those follow. Following are my two most recent tasting notes. As will be seen, I do not recommend either. Château Fonbadet, Pauillac, 2000: Never a tempting wine, medium-bodied with chunky tannins and simple berry and plum fruits dominated by herbal and cigar-tobacco aromas and flavors. Well past its peak. No longer enjoyable. Score 65.

Château Fonbadet, Copie de Château Fonbadet, Pauillac, 2000: Garnet, with distinct browning and notes of caramelization and a too distinct note of mulch that hide whatever fruits may still lurk here. No longer scoreable.


*On the off chance that someone has not yet understood my reference to "puppy paradise", that is my romantic notion of the place to which all good dogs go after they have died, a place where they return to puppyhood with all of the joys, energies and playfulness of those days. It is also in my mind the place where all wines go after they have given up the ghost, a place where all wines are youthful, vibrant and delicious beyond compare.

Hi Rogov,

Is the Château Lafon Rochet, St.-Estèphe, 2001 TN for the kosher edition? I ask because this TN seems to contradict the TN in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=29&t=22710

Thanks in advance!

Jon, Hi...

Indeed, by error the note above is for the regular (that is to say non-kosher edition). The two tasting notes, both re-tasted in 2008 follow for easy comparison.



Chateau Lafon Rochet, St.-Estephe, 2001 (Kosher Edition): Dark ruby towards garnet, full bodied, with blackcurrant and berry fruits somewhat held in check by firm tannins and a rather heavy hand with the oak. Drink up. Score 85.K

Château Lafon Rochet, St.-Estèphe, 2001: Holding its own very nicely, a dark-garnet, full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (55%, 40% and 5% respectively), continues to show as well now as in its youth. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry and raspberry fruits, those complemented by notes of dark chocolate and green olives. Drink now-2014. Score 91.

I tasted the 2002 Fonbadet at the Oxnard event in 2010 and it was not great, but there was a 2002 vintage.

David

Chateau Lafon Rochet, St.-Estephe, 2001 (Kosher Edition): Dark ruby towards garnet, full bodied, with blackcurrant and berry fruits somewhat held in check by firm tannins and a rather heavy hand with the oak. Drink up. Score 85.K

Château Lafon Rochet, St.-Estèphe, 2001: Holding its own very nicely, a dark-garnet, full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (55%, 40% and 5% respectively), continues to show as well now as in its youth. On the nose and palate blackcurrant, black cherry and raspberry fruits, those complemented by notes of dark chocolate and green olives. Drink now-2014. Score 91.

In another thread we had a great discussion about the different treatment that the kosher cuvees receive; but is this sort of differential attributed to the fruit or the winemaker?

Andrew, Hi...

Not knowing the precise details of this particular cuvee it is difficult to say. I'd have to say though that it is some combination of "genetics and enviornment" - that is to say, both the grapes and the winemaker.

Best
Rogov

Hi,
To all who are interested to know more about Domaine Roses Camille, I am going to try to answer to some of the questions that I have read in the forum.
I am the coproducer of Domaine Roses Camille. 2005 was the first year the wine was produced. It is not a non kosher wine that became kosher. There has never been a Roses Camille before. The grapes of the plot from which Roses Camille is made, were previously harvested and blended with other grapes to make a non kosher wine. Good, but nothing special.
I have decided with the owner of the land, to create a kosher wine out of that particular plot and so came the Roses Camille. The first year (2005), we tried it and produced only 900 bottles (the goal was 1000), the rest of the grapes went its usual way. It came out so good, we decided to produce the whole plot kosher and 2006 gave 3000 bottles. The plot is not that big and cannot give more. Therefore there was no non kosher Roses Camille prior to that, and no mean to compare the price to its non kosher version (to answer to Menachem S) and how a first wine came out so good (also for Menachem) ? Could I say the expertise of the wine maker and a lot of Mazal !
2006 is out and bottled, we expect Daniel Rogov to taste it soon.
As for following years, I have to say that I had to make a very painful decision and to unsealed the 2007 barrels in the middle of the process. Kosher cost which I was financing on my own were too high. There was no real market for such a wine in France, and I presented it in the US at the pick of the economy crisis to famous wines stores in NY. They loved it but decided to live on their stocks for a while, the dollar was too low at the time. I did not presented it anymore later.
The years 2007 to 2010, although not bottled yet, will not be kosher and being an orthodox jew, I do not want to get involved. If sales pick up for 2005 and 2006, we will go kosher again starting 2011.
In an invitation to present the wine in England in november 2007, Decanter magazine has contacted us and selected Roses Camille as one among the 100 best Great Wines of Bordeaux, not caring about the kosher aspect of it. It has received the bronze medal of the 2008 World Wine Award published in October 2008 issue of the magazine.
On March 2008, in a special report titled "Bordeaux to buy" on page 63, Wine Spectator has mentioned Roses Camille as one of the fifty wines among hundreds of great wines that deserve special attention. Once again, not taking into account the kosher aspect, though mentioning it in the article.
The 2006 has received praises from various experts in France and is on some pretigious restaurants wine list as La Tour d'Argent in Paris, Le Port Palace in Monaco, La Reserve in Geneva, and some others that present a kosher labeled wine on their wine list, only because they loved it.
I hope I have answered to some of your questions, and I am ready to reply to any request you may have.
Sincerely,
Nicolas Ranson
Coproducer of Domaine Roses Camille

Bravo Nicolas - both for the success of the wine and the explanation of its origins. Here is hoping there are more kosher cuvees to follow. May I suggest that you may have a bit more "luck" in the States in light of Rogov's rating? Perhaps by arranging special buys by the case for wine clubs and the like?