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Four Whites From Giaconda

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Daniel Rogov

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Four Whites From Giaconda

by Daniel Rogov » Thu Oct 21, 2010 10:04 am

Needed several more tasting notes to flesh out an article, so Anat and Rafaella of Giaconda kindly arranged a special morning tasting for me. Not Rieslings in this case but white wines from Gruner Veltliner, Marsanne, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Blanc grapes, each in this case with a bare and tantalizing hint of bitterness that makes them particularly food-friendly.

As always, best way to order is to contact Giaconda directly. They can be reached by telephone at 03 - 6022746 or can be contacted through their internet site (which boasts a full catalogue of their wines) at http://www.giaconda.co.il My thanks to Anat and Rafaella for setting up the tasting, for their good company and, bien sur, for the espresso coffee they always serve after my tastings.

Best
Rogov



F.X. Pichler, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, Urgstein Terrassen, Wachau, Austria, 2007: For those not in the know, the "Smaragd" stated on the label is a descriptive term, that used only in Austria to legally define wines from the richest and ripest grapes. Opens with a hint of bittersweet peach pits, that lingering through to a long finish and complementing and never hiding aromas and flavors of sweet apples and ripe peaches and apricots. From mid-palate on look for notes of bitter citrus peel. Fine balancing acidity in this deep golden wine, all leading to a long and mouth-filling finish. Thoroughly enjoyable now but do not hesitate to cellar this one until 2016, perhaps longer. NIS 140. Score 91.
(Tasted 21 Oct 2010)

Cave Yves Cuilleron, Saint Perey Blanc, Les Potiers, Northern Rhone, 2008: Made from Marsanne grapes, showing deep lemony gold with tints of orange and green. Opens with aromas and flavors of white peaches, those parting to make way for notes of persimmon, bitter oranges and spices, and, from mid-palate to the long finish a hint of lemon grass. Drink now-2011. NIS 140. Score 90.

Weinbut Shafer Frohlich, Gewurztraminer, Trocken, Nahe, Germany, 2007: Bright shining gold in color, medium-bodied and aromatic with traditional Gewurztraminer litchis, rose petals and spices, all with a pleasing hint of bitter citrus peel. Medium-bodied, with fine balance and crisp acidity. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 90. Score 89. NIS 90

Domaine Marcell Deiss, Pinot Blanc, Bergheim, Alsace, France, 2006: Developed on the skins of the grapes in large German oak vats, deep gold in color, medium-bodied but remarkably light on the palate. A mineral-rich wine showing a tempting array of grapefruit, clementines, and apple blossoms, those on a background that hints of light bitter herbs at one moment and of honey at the next. Long and generous with hints of roasted cashew nuts and white pepper on the finish. Lovely. Drink now-2012. Score 89. (Tasted 21 Oct 2010)

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