Those who have been following my posts have come to realize that yesterday (Thursday, 18 November) was a busy day that had me arriving in the late morning at the Flam Winery, there for my annual visit and a serious round of tasting.
Located in a thoroughly modern facility not far from the town of Beit Shemesh at the foothills of the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery has produced consistently excellent and exciting wines since its first releases from the 1998 vintage. Established by brothers Golan and Gilad Flam; Golan, having trained and worked in Australia and Tuscany, is the winemaker; Gilad is in charge of the business aspects. Also working with the two brothers is their father, Israel Flam, who was for many years the senior winemaker at Carmel.
The winery is currently producing age-worthy varietal Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines in their Reserve and Superiore series; a second wine, Classico, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is meant for relatively early drinking; and a label for white wine, Flam. Current production is about 130,000 bottles annually. Of those about 15,000 are white wines.
Grapes come primarily from vineyards over which the winery has full control, in the Judean Mountains and the Galilee. In addition to current reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, other varieties including Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Mourvedre are soon to come on line. The Flam wines will be kosher from the 2010 vintage. With an abundance of new barriques and new stainless steel vats, the winery has now reached what will probably be its peak production unless of course the facility is enlarged.
What fascinates about this winery in addition to the overall excellence of the wines is the continued move towards wines that while often deeply extracted, concentrated and sometimes even muscular show round, soft and elegant. My compliments especially to winemaker Golan Flam for demonstrating that a winemaker who knows his vineyards and his grapes well can even overcome the challenges presented by a vintage year as problematic as 2010. As to anyone concerned that the 2010 switch over to kashrut has done any harm, rest assured that this is most definitely not[/i] the case!
My thanks to the Flams, fils et pere for a warm welcome, a fine tasting and for the light but delightful lunch they served after our tasting in the small garden attached to the winery. Good company, good wine, good food and an unbeatable view of the surrounding hills and forests.
[u]Note: The tastings of the 2010 red wines were all pre-barrel tastings. Because several of the red wines had not yet completed malolactic fermentation, it is too early to make accurate predictions about drinking windows and because it is extremely difficult to make full predictions at this stage of the wine's development, tentative scores are given within a more than usual range.
Flam, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, 2010 (Tank Sample): An intentionally unoaked blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc and 33% Chardonnay. Not subjected to malolactic fermentation in order to safeguard the natural flavors of the grapes, light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with finely tuned acidity keeping the wine crisp and refreshing while not losing its complexity. Look for aromas and flavors of spicy citrus and tropical fruits, those hanging on through a long, lively finish on which fine notes of stony minerals. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Rose, 2010 (Tank Sample): Made this year entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, those allowed 3 -4 hours on the skins after crushing. Rose petal pink, light- to medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity a lively and just complex enough rose wine showing aromas and flavors of strawberries, cherries and cassis and, if you let the wine sit on the tongue for a few minutes a bare and tantalizing hint of tannins. Delicious and refreshing. Drink from release. Score 90. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2010 (Pre-Barrel Tasting): Made from Merlot grapes from the Dishon vineyard in the Upper Galilee, destined to be blended with small percentages of Petit Verdot and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep youthful royal purple, full-bodied with soft, gently caressing tannins opening with red berry and cassis fruits, those parting to reveal black cherries and plums, all complemented by notes of spicy cedar wood and a hint of cinnamon that tantalizes. Drink from release. Tentative Score 90-93. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Syrah, Reserve, 2010 (Pre-Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple, full-bodied and concentrated with blackberries, black cherries, red plums and wild berries, those supported by notes of spring flowers. As the wine continues to develop look as well for notes of cherry pie. Well structured, tight, deep and long. Best from 2013. Tentative Score 90-93. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2010 (Pre-Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes from Kerem Ben Zimra, waiting to be blended with small amounts of Merlot and/or Petit Verdot. Impenetrable inky garnet in color, full bodied and with still gripping tannins but already showing fine potential. Opens with jammy red currants and raspberries, the jammy sensation passing quickly and going on to black fruits on a spice and licorice rich background. Best from 2014. Tentative Score 91-94. K (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Classico, 2009 (Advance Tasting): The by now traditional blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, 30% of which aged in new oak, the remainder in second and third year oak for 8 months. Generous black fruits on the nose, medium- to full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and an appealing array of blackberry, currant and wild berry fruits, those showing hints of dark chocolate and licorice. Drink from release-2014. Score 89. (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Syrah, Superiore, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Deep, almost impenetrable royal purpose in color, oak aged for 12 months in French and American oak, a full-bodied and rich wine. Almost chewy but nicely rounded, a distinctly European style wine with aromas and flavors of blueberries, currants and raspberries, those supported by notes of espresso and licorice. Long and generous. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best from 2012-2016. Score 91. (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes from the Dishon vineyard in the Upper Galilee and now developing in French oak. My second barrel tasting (the first 9 months ago), its gripping tannins now settling in nicely. On the nose and palate spicy oak, wild berry, red currant and black cherry fruits complemented nicely by notes of roasted herbs and earthy minerals. Long and generous, a touch of red licorice on the finish. Drink from release-2016, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Petit Verdot, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Super dark garnet in color, with a spring flower and red fruit nose. Ripe, rich and deeply concentrated, opening on the palate to show wild berry and blackberry fruits, those with overlays of mocha and vanilla beans. Thick and complex to be used as a component in small parts to add complexity to the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Reserve wines. (Tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): My second barrel tasting of this wine. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Ben Zimra and Dishon vineyards in the Upper Galilee, developing in French oak barriques, and blended with a bit of Petit Verdot, showing fine potential. Full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins, opening in the glass to reveal red and black currants, blackberries and wild berry fruits. On the long, fresh finish notes of freshly turned earth. Best from 2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Oak aged in French barriques for 15 months, a blend of 90% Merlot and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauignon. Dark garnet toward royal purple, with ample soft tannins and a gentle hand with the oak, showing aromas and flavors of currants and black cherries, those supported nicely by notes of peppermint, spring flowers and spices, a tempting light earthy note rising on the long finish. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best from 2012-2018. Score 92. (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2010)
Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2008 (Advance Tasting): Developed in new French oak for 18 months, a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot. Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, with spicy oak on the nose that oak having the grace of showing only gently in the glass. On the nose and palate wild berries, blackcurrants and spiced plums, all on a background that hints at one moment of garrigue and another of roasted herbs. Approachable on release but showing its elegance best from mid-2012 – 2020. Score 94. (Re-tasted 18 Nov 2010)
And finally (one of the many advantages of visiting wineries for tastings), a surprise, a barrel tasting of a new special reserve wine, as yet unnamed.
Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve (Not an Official Name), 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Destined for oak-aging in tight grained new oak for 20 months, already showing dark garnet and boasting a generously spicy nose. A ripe, full-bodied wine, rich and layered, opening in the glass to reveal a complex array of aromas and flavors, those including plums, blackberries, wild berries and blackcurrants, all unfolding in ways that are graceful and complex. On the super-long finish notes of spices rise together with notes of black licorice and mocha. Scheduled for release in 2012 but give this one the time it needs to show its true elegance. Best from 2013-2020. Score 94.
