About a week ago I received a phone call from Orna Ben-Chaim, the public relations person for the Recanati winery. Truth be told, the call discombobulated me somewhat because it was an invitation to visit a vineyard and taste a wine together with her, Recanati CEO Noam Jacoby and senior winemaker Gil Shatzberg.
One vineyard. One wine. Seemed a bit outré to me but what the heck, Orna is one of those p.r. people I know well enough to trust. I knew, for example that she would not be sending me on a wild goose. And, after all she had triggered my curiosity and mini-mysteries can be fun so I accepted the invitation.
This morning at about 10 a.m. Gil Shtazberg picked me up in Tel Aviv and we made our way to the Judean Hills, there to meet Orna and Noam and before too long to arrive at one of the most unusual vineyards I have encountered in Israel. There, with an exquisite view of the surrounding hills, of far more modern vineyards planted nearby and of the Dir Rafat Monastery sat a portion of a vineyard planted entirely in Carignan grapes, those planted more than 30 years ago on soil that is now completely white with an abundance of naturally crushed white stones.
Although there are drip irrigation plastic pipes laid, there has never been a water supply to those pipes and the vines have gone unwatered since they were planted. More than that, these are vines that have been allowed to flourish as bush vines (more technically the Gobelet system) which involves using no wires or other supports systems, keeping the trunk of the vine fairly short and allowing the leaves to form an umbrella-like natural canopy that shields the grapes from too strong direct sunlight, allows fine exposure to the air and serves as a natural protection for the grapes. The system, although tried and true is uncommon in Israel but is found quite regularly in the southern parts of the Rhone Valley, Provence, Languedoc and parts of Burgundy.
As we strolled through the vineyard, enjoying the fresh air and the view and our conversation, we sipped Recanati's most pleasant 2010 rosé. Truth be told, I was having a heckuva good time, even better than at most picnics. And then, still in the field, we tasted the 2009 wine that had been made from these grapes. Later, we tasted the wine again with lunch. And then, on return home, I tasted the wine once again, this time more formally, matched against similar wines and, of course, blind. In My Fair Lady, sings about "aw, wouldn't it be loverly". Simply stated, the wine is indeed loverly and I'd be pleased to drink it either with Eliza Doolittle (as played of course by Julie Andrews) or with the Queen.
My thanks to Gil, Noam and Orna for a great mini-adventure.
Best
Rogov
Recanati, Carignan, Reserve, Kerem Ba'al, 2009: Listed on the label as coming from Kerem Ba'al (an unwatered vineyard) and as a "wild" wine, that referring to the grapes being raised as bush vines, showing even better than at an earlier barrel tasting. The first varietal Carignan release from the winery, made from old vines with naturally low yield, showing full-bodied and distinctly royal purple, its once chunky tannins now softened nicely. On the nose unmistakable aromas of raspberries and spices and in the glass opening to reveal a generous array of blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those supported by notes of spicy oak, licorice, pepper and tobacco. Powerful but oh so gentle on the palate, with hints of mesquite and a note of fresh acidity livening up the generous finish. Perhaps at its very best with entrecote, T-bone or porterhouse steaks. Drink now-2016. Perhaps the most "Israeli wine" I have ever tasted and if I were to rate the wine entirely on a hedonistic basis, it would earn a score of 96-97 for the sheer pleasure it gives. Rating it in a more standard manner – Score 93. K
5,990 bottles numbered were produced. The wine is currently going for NIS 140. In my opinion worth hunting up multiple bottles.
