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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by Bill Spohn » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:11 pm

Notes from a Piemonte dinner.

This was a private dinner put on by one of my groups and I thought we were able to assemble a very decent array of wines, with one vertical and one horizontal.

With scallops and green pea risotto:

2010 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis – very nice tropical fruit nose, smooth and clean on palate and with medium length. Very decent.

With duck breast cassoulet:

1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja – my last bottle of this one, and it has turned out beautifully. good colour, now becoming garnet, a nose that was a tad poopy/Rhonish at first but quickly resolved into earth and cherries. Has tannins but soft ones, and also lots of acidity, and a long finish with a kick of ripeness at the end that echoes the black cherry of the nose. Wish I had more!

1990 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja – interesting very tarry nose, instantly riper in the mouth and with nice up front fruit, finishing long, ripe and rich. Different in style, and still has time to develop, and the group was divided as to which of these two wines they liked better.

2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva – fast forward a decade and we found a reticent nose with some red fruit. The wine had significant tannins and clearly needs time, but I formed the opinion that it would never develop into the same level as the other two. I guess we’ll see in another decade or so.

With osso buco:

1997 Luigi Pira Barolo Margheria – a really striking, wonderful nose with tar and black cherry and a little dark chocolate. In the mouth, there was still quite a bit of tannin. Good length, finishing a tad ripe.

1997 Aldo Ricardo Seghessio Barolo Vigneto La Villa – good depth in this nose, although perhaps a little simpler than the Pira. There were notes of cedar and dark fruit and it was softer but still had evident tannin, and very good flavour concentration, with medium long finish. No rush here.

1997 Luigi Einaudi Barolo – I found this wine to be elegant with some plum and tobacco in the nose, excellent concentration and midpalate flavour, and very good length with a lingering impression of tar fading slowly with time. Very good and again, no rush, although delicious now.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:22 pm

I like but do not love 2000 in Piemonte.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
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Re: WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by Jenise » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:23 pm

Wow, duck breast cassoulet AND osso buco? Geo's sons did the cooking, right? Sounds like a great meal. Am pleased with your report on the Einaudi, as I've just picked up a few.

Only tangentially related, but a true story: I once invited a new Italian friend over for dinner and served an Einaudi Dolcetto just because it was Italian and so was she. She wept when she saw the bottle, which I had no idea she'd have a connection to: old Mr. Einaudi funded the scholarship that paid for her education in the U.S.! She'd never had one of his wines.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by Bill Spohn » Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:31 pm

Don't think Einaudi sees huge distribution, although we currently have 4 wines here in BC. Classy old style.
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Joshua Kates

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by Joshua Kates » Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:25 pm

He was president of Italy at some point, no?
I had a couple of his '96 Cannubi; they were some of my best drinking Baroli of late.

Happy New Year to all!
Josh
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Barbaresco 1989-2000, 1997 Barolos

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:57 pm

Yes, Luigi Einaudi was president of Italy in 50s (remember, Prime Minister/Premier is actually a more powerful position. though president has more power than in some places, not just a figurehead). Estate is rich in history. Seems to be middle of the road- the straight Barolo is pretty traditional, the other cuvees more modern but not OTT.
1997 and 2000 are both very good vintages in Piedmont, but unlike WS I prefer 98 and 99, and especially 1996 and 2001.
My last bottle of the 97 normale was in 2009
Twelve is young for a fairly traditional Barolo, but this ripe vintage wine seems fairly mature to me. Very floral notes. Warm red fruit, earth, light tar notes. Still some tannins, but I'd drink this up in next few years

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