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Wineries to visit in SW VA?

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Tony Fletcher

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Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Tony Fletcher » Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:26 pm

hey everyone

I've been off this group for far far too long. Moved out of NYC and lifestyle changed a lot... Still drinking good wine, just not getting time to talk about it enough!

Anyway, my wife and I are off to borrow an in-laws' lake house in Radford, Virginia, for the next week. Seems like a nice opportunity to test out some VA wine, but I don't want to spend all day in the car. Norton and Barboursville, for example, both seem out of our range. We're in the South-Western part of Virginia proper, and the Virginia Wineries web site lists these local wineries:
http://www.virginiawines.org/wineries/r-southwest.html
If anyone can recommend one or more above the others (i.e. they make good wine!) I would love it. I promise to share a written report!!!!

Thanks

Tony
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by David M. Bueker » Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:41 pm

I've had some wines from Valhalla that were pretty good.
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Keith M » Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:43 pm

Welcome, Tony. I hope you have a good trip.

I visited a number of wineries in southwest Virginia in trips to the region in 2005 and 2006. My impressions from those visits are as follows:

Villa Appalaccia probably topped the list for me. They had a Primitivo and a Toscanello blend of Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, and Primitivo. They were strong on the berry flavors, as I find somewhat typical of Virginia reds, but far less dense and had an earthy or herbsy thing about them I really liked. I would visit them again if I were in the area. Abingdon Winery had a good selection, including some rather nice hybrids, if you are into trying those--very good prices on the hybrids as well (though, in general, southwest Virginia does better on prices than does the explosion of wineries in northern Virginia). AmRhein was okay, but had some interesting more uniquely styled wines the time I visited. Nothing struck me as outstanding there, but they had some interesting choices including Pinot Grigio and Petit Verdot, which you don't see everywhere.

If you are adventurous, you might consider a visit to Hickory Hill Vineyards. Based on the description of their location, I was expecting something that was more a tourist destination on the lake for easy wine sipping than a winery. Boy, was I wrong. This place is worth a visit just for the contrast to the general Napaization of the Virginia wine tasting experience. The folks there are passionate and experimental . . . some of their wines I liked, some were undrinkable, but their enthusiasm and joy were infectious and I really liked the fact they tried stuff according to their own tastes, rather than someone's perception of what the market demands. In particular, I found their interpretation of Chardonnay interesting (but I have to admit it wouldn't be to everyone's taste, but what is?), unlike the flood of oak-and-butter that was in vogue for a few years. Can't guarantee that you'll like the wines, and I wouldn't recommend you go far out of your way just for the wines, but it's neat to taste experiments in action.

There used to be a place called White Rock close to Hickory Hill. Don't know if they are still around, but another fun visit to see a winery that someone installed in their house. They had a nice Cabernet Franc when I visited.

Peaks of Otter is old skool Virginia fruit wine--in multitudes of flavors and styles. They are a little bit crazy up there and their wines show it. I found their wines more appropriate to sharing amongst a bunch of friends, as many of the more interesting ones it would be difficult to imagine splitting a bottle between two people (rather strong flavor profiles). But they had some bottle of jalapeno or other spicy pepper-based wine, and I have to tell you, it was weird, but I have never found a better match for nachos.

And, it's not on the list for southwest Virginia, but Fincastle Vineyards and Winery is just above Roanoke and is one of my favorite finds in Virginia. Very small scale but I rank their cabernet franc as one of my Virginia favorites for three years running . . . which ain't too shabby, as the last bottle set me back $12, which was pretty much half the price of any other decently interesting Virginia cabernet franc.

I have nothing good to say about the wines at Château Morrisette (except that perhaps folks who generally dislike wine find them an accessible entry point), but the tasting room experience is hilarious. Enormous Napaesque tasting complex right off the Blue Ridge and when I went one taster leading a tasting for about 70 guests, many of whom were wisecracking the whole time. I could barely breathe as I exited to the parking lot, I was laughing so hard.

Beautiful country there, I hope you enjoy it. I look forward to your report.
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Bob Ross » Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:47 pm

Tony, I wouldn't miss Valhalla -- like David writes, some very good wines. Here's a typical note from my diary:

1998 Valhalla Vineyards Gotterdammerung North Fork of Roanoke Virginia. $26 at Tastings in Charlottesville: tastingsofcville.com/newsletter.html 81% Cabernet Franc; 19% Merlot; 13% alcohol. Deep red color; deep hue; dark fruit aromas and tastes with hints of cedar and good cassis; medium mouth feel; long lingering finish with excellent fruit, cedar and spice notes. Lasted well for over two hours as we sipped and talked. Lovely dramatic packaging – an odd note, however: “When you hear that enemy missiles will impact in thirty minutes, this is the wine you will want to open and drink.” The best VA wine I’ve had. 4*.

Notes: Press release: In its first year of estate release, Valhalla Vineyards has won the coveted Governor's Cup VA wine competition with its 1998 Syrah. The wine was selected as the top wine from a field of 200 wines entered by 34 different VA wineries in this year's competition. Valhalla, located in Roanoke is owned by Jim and Debra Vascik and just opened its doors to the public in May of 1999. They currently have approximately 20½ acres of grapes planted including 3 acres of Syrah. Debra, who is Valhalla's winemaker, describes her award winner as a "full bodied red wine, luscious and complex enough to drink on its own". Her food pairing suggestions for this wine include game and red meats. Characteristics of the wine include dark fruit aromas such as black cherry and plum, and flavors of cassis, cocoa and spice. "Our vineyard did not receive any rain in 1998 from August through harvest in mid-September", said Debra. "These are ideal growing conditions to finish a near perfect growing season." The yield on these young vines was less than 1 ton per acre. Valhalla ages its wines in a cave located 60 feet beneath their vineyards. The cave was blasted into the side of their granite mountain. Without the need for additional energy, the cave naturally maintains a temperature range of 55-60 degrees and 85% humidity. "These conditions are perfect for aging wines". Valhalla also uses a gravity flow method of processing their red wines, reducing bitter tannin extraction, a common technique in FR.
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by James Roscoe » Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:14 pm

Valhalla would be the one I would put on my don't miss list. They are always stanout at the Virginia Festival in the Fall. Speaking of which, it's only a month away. Where does the summer go?
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Tony Fletcher » Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:21 pm

Thanks so much everyone. That was some quick responses - and really good news. I've only tasted from Barboursville and Norton and had no idea we might have such good wineries within 50 miles. I'll definitely get to Valhalla and hopefully a few of the others.

Bob: Lovely to see you still active and enthusiastic. I still recall a Hermitage you brought to one of the NYC offlines, a Chave most likely (I have the note somewhere but I'm not as organized as you are on that front), one that really opened my palate to the beauty of these northern RHone syrahs. Of course none of us can afford to buy them anymore, to which - all the more kudos to you for sharing.

Tony
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Bob Ross » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:01 pm

It's great to see you here Tony. I've been following your blog from time to time and even quoting some of your stuff.

There were two Hermitages that evening according to my notes:

1985 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Northern Rhône France. 13% alcohol. Robert Chadderdon Selections, NY. Lovely muted aroma and taste, great depth, beautifully balanced, excellent acidity and a great food match – a wine to dawdle with. T4*+.

1983 E. Guigal Hermitage Northern Rhône France. Bacon fat, simple aroma and taste, a bit delicate, roasted notes, medium finish. Perhaps a bit to delicate to show well against the heavies around it, but still a very pretty wine. T3*.


And I've treasured your comment on my notes:

Tony Fletcher: What's wrong with you? You come blazing into Manhattan carrying several bottles of high-octane alcoholic grapes, you drink the table dry, entertain us all with your war stories, round off the night with a bottle of grenache from your birth year, ;-> take a cab back to Jersey and manage to have copious and comprehensive tasting notes up by the time I get out of bed and get online! I think you're a living example of the Jersey paradox.

Anyway, I would love to take credit for the Ogier 95, but that was Marty's excellent contribution. I disagree with Brad on this: what I liked about it was that it tasted much more like a Cote Rotie than, say, Chave or Clape's Cotes du Rhône's taste like a Hermitage or Cornas.

Almost every wine was splendid in its own way. I have been waiting a long time to drink a Savennieres at its peak, and the pleasure of the Boumard made it one of the treats of the night. I think Zinfandels and Aussie liquid chocolate have their place - unfortunately, competing with the subtleties of great Loire whites, german whites and Rhône reds is not it.

A fantastic night all round. I've drunk more great wine this past week than in probably the whole of my twenties
.


It was such a great tasting -- a couple of months after 9/11. My summary:

On balance, this was one of the best selections I’ve seen at a NYC dinner. Brad said that a couple of years ago there was a “Gem” tasting, and I always think Kane is Right, so I must defer. But certainly the company was gem-like – a happy, funny, glorious evening of friendship and fine wine.

In any event, please post your reactions to Valhalla -- I've really enjoyed their wines, and the facility sounds very interesting.

Keep in touch, Tony -- it's always great fun reading your posts.

Regards, Bob
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Tony Fletcher » Fri Aug 10, 2007 11:39 pm

Bob

I was clearly blown away by that Faurie - I bought a 95 Faurie Le Meal not too long after. It's in storage. When's a good year for us to share it?

tony
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Carl Eppig » Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:30 am

I'll second the Fincastle. As Keith says it is a small scale operation, but worth the small trip off the interstate (81). It is a dropdead beautiful location, lovely people, and nice wine.
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Peter May » Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:26 am

Tony

You may find this blog useful - http://vinespot.blogspot.com/
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Peter May » Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:27 am

Tony

You may find this blog detailing visits to Virginia wineries useful - http://vinespot.blogspot.com/
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Tony Fletcher

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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Tony Fletcher » Sat Aug 18, 2007 12:17 pm

Thanks again for the recommendations. Over two different days I got to six different wineries, though at the expense of at least 350 miles. (So much for sitting still.) I promise a fuller report later but in a nutshell: Villa Appalachia and Valhalla were head and shoulders above the others, superb wines across the board, with the bonus of my being served by the wine-makers themselves. The other places were hit and miss.Overall I was more impressed by reds than whites and in hands of great wine-makers like the above two, the potential is there to REALLY put the State on the map.
Tony
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Peter May » Sat Aug 18, 2007 3:42 pm

Tony, it is good to read your feedback, We don't always get it.

We look forward to your more detailed report.
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Re: Wineries to visit in SW VA?

by Bob Ross » Sat Aug 18, 2007 4:04 pm

Thanks for the feed back, Tony. Love to read your further notes.

Regards, Bob

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