TN: 2002 Domaine Ernest Burn Muscat Goldert Clos Saint Imer La Chapelle - Fr

2002 Domaine Ernest Burn Muscat Goldert Clos Saint Imer La Chapelle - France, Alsace, Gueberschwihr, Alsace Grand Cru AOC (8/12/2007)
Light amber color, aromas of fresh sea air with hints of lemon, honey and ginger. Same flavors, with a smooth, glassy texture and little viscosity. Sensation in the mouth was of a dull, penetrating vibrancy, finishing with piercing (but not unpleasant) acidity. This sensation is the same one I get from Burn's Clos St. Immer Riesling, but otherwise highly unusual - if I may wax lyrical for a moment, it feels almost as though the sun's heat absorbed by the soil in which the grapes grew is being radiated back out through the wine. It's very appealing, and this first-class wine paired wonderfully with Asian-style stir-fried chicken.

Posted from CellarTracker

Ian, love to see muscat notes. Would you have recognised this one if it had been served blind?

I think this is only the second time I've ever had a dry muscat. I would not have recognized it blind, no way.

Ian, the reason I asked is because I am hard pressed to remember a true Alsace muscat nose!!!

Well, I am not really much good at this, but I would say that the honey and ginger notes distinguish it from a Riesling - which would most likely be my first guess, based on aromatics and acidity - while the fresh air/sea breeze quality (due, I presume, to firm acid structure) would tend to disquallify it as any Gewurztraminer except possibly a Trimbach. And this wine is not nearly dry enough to be a Trimbach.

The only other dry Muscat I've tasted was from Austria, so I can't gereralize from this wine to Alsace Muscat broadly. I've heard that the Burn St. Immer is an unusually good version.

Thanks for your interest!

Ian,

Thanks for your note on this. I have a bottle in the cabinet and am looking forward to trying this soon. I loved the '01 version, and managed to score several bottes at a bargain price (under $20). Everyone that tried the '01 loved it and a few were totally surprised (not many people have had a really good Alsace muscat). Charles Schleret usually makes a nice version (non-grand cru, although it may have a vineyard listed) which is more moderately priced.

Under $20 is a very good price for Burn St. Immer, any varietal. Are there any still available at this price?

Cheers.

Under $20 is a very good price for Burn St. Immer, any varietal. Are there any still available at this price?

Cheers.

I wish, but no. Actually got the '02 at the same shop for $19.95 but when I went back for more it was gone. The shop in question, Warehouse Wines in NYC, isn't good for much (IMO), but for some reason they seem to have remarkable values on Alsace from time to time. And in general, they have not been baked or otherwise spoiled.

The shop in question, Warehouse Wines in NYC, isn't good for much (IMO), but for some reason they seem to have remarkable values on Alsace from time to time. And in general, they have not been baked or otherwise spoiled.

Joe, good to see you here. Is this the place right around corner from old Astor? Never found much there, but Alsace isn't usually the first place I look at a store. Now I know.

Ian, thanks for notes. I have never had the CSI Muscat, but have enjoyed the Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Hi Dale,

Yup, that's the place. For some reason the Alsace selection usually includes a jem or two. Past sub $20 Alsace steals I've found there include Schlumberger Kessler Gewurtz and Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim Gewurz. On the last visit they had some interesting Willy Gisselbrecht GC bottles for under $20 IIRC; I may go by and buy one or two if they are still there. Sometimes there is something in the Rhone or German section, but many sections are awful (e.g. Burgundy).

Wow, Deiss for under $20. Shocking.

Yup, that's the place. For some reason the Alsace selection usually includes a jem or two. Past sub $20 Alsace steals I've found there include Schlumberger Kessler Gewurtz and Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim Gewurz. On the last visit they had some interesting Willy Gisselbrecht GC bottles for under $20 IIRC; I may go by and buy one or two if they are still there. Sometimes there is something in the Rhone or German section, but many sections are awful (e.g. Burgundy).

Next time I'm in area I'll take a look. I've mostly ignored store in past. I tend to make quick judgements re a store based on scanning a few sections where I have an ok knowledge of producers and vintages- maybe Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piedmont, or though I'm less knowledgable maybe German, CA , Tuscany, Loire, etc- if I find little of interest in 2-3 sections I give up. As I did re this store (it really doesn't matter to me how cheaply they price their Laboure-Roi). Now I know, at least check out the Alsace there. Thanks.

One good way to be exposed to a muscat nose is through Grappi di Moscato. I know a lot of people hate grappa, but if you actually line up a handful of glasses of grappa from differnt grapes, the differences are very pronounced...

Alan,

Interesting. Never thought about trying a Muscat grappa (since most taste like overpriced paint thinner to me - despite the attractive bottles...). Muscat grapes are rich in a few monoterpene molecules which produce the characteristic aromas; these must get distilled over in the grappa making process.

Walking through vineyards and eating grapes: the only one I can always identify with certainty is gewurztraminer (also rich in monoterpenes). Tried some muscat grapes and, while they were fruity, I wouldn't say I could pick them out as muscat blind. Wonder if anyone makes a gewurztraminer grappa?

Joe, I did a google. Lots of references including one from NZ.......Johanneshof.
I have had Gewurtz Eau de Vie in Alsace on a few infrequent trips!