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WTN: More wine with food

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Florida Jim

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WTN: More wine with food

by Florida Jim » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:57 am

Carrot-ginger soup:
2005 Cakebread, Sauvignon Blanc:
Somewhat generic but pretty sauvignon with no cat pee or grassy scents or flavors and lightly lifted white fruit. A nice bottle off a restaurant list; details unknown.
Came alive with the soup, which was cream based and quite spicy. The wine cut through cream, sparkled with the sweetness of the carrots and took just the hottest edge off the ginger, yet it never took center stage. A superb pairing.

Manchego cheese:
1994 Fisher Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard:
This wine could have been special; it has rich but focused flavors of blackberry and cassis, a lovely mineral streak and was well balanced, but the oak, which was sour at times, intruded on every sip. Some may feel the oak ‘framed’ the wine; but this is too big a frame and unpleasant. And after 13 years, I doubt the oak signature will ever be less. A shame; just one bad choice spoiled a very good wine. 13% alcohol and about $50, on release; no thanks.
Even the cheese couldn’t help. I’m just guessing here, but if one charred the skin of a wild boar, maybe this wine would pair.

Stir fried veggies and tofu on rice noodles with yellow curry:
2002 François Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance:
Honeyed white fruit and minerals; vinous in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, slightly off-dry, cutting acidity, lovely balance and a long finish. A long way from peak but a mighty nice time to catch it with this meal. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $18 at release; more than worth it. Chosen because the off-dry nature of the wine might work with the curry – it did. Moreover, the flavors of the wine were not lost to the curry’s heat nor were the flavors of the stir-fry lost to the wine; everything blended well. Excellent pairing.

Grilled Naan with cheese:
2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard:
Oaky and candied on the nose and in the mouth with unfocused flavors in the black fruit range, some spice and an ever so faint hint of the crunchy fruit I often get from Anderson Valley pinots. This has not done well in the cellar as it was more character driven and less sweet earlier in its life; drink up. 14.2% alcohol and about $40 on release; I’d not buy it again. Too over the top for the food.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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