WTN: Dinner at Toni's (a drinkable Priorato, Musar, etc.)

Yesterday Antti, Toni and I met at Toni's apartment to eat and drink and be merry. We were supposed to help make space in Toni's cellar (and we did) but Antti and I still brought wines along (it just didn't feel right to go empty handed though taking wine I suppose defeated part of the purpose of the visit, lol!). While making food we shared a big and burly Priorato that amazingly was not only drinkable but even enjoyable! I don't mind big wines as long as they have structure (this did) and have more than just over-ripe fruit (this did) and aren't smothered in oak (this wasn't). Then with starters of chantrelle risotto and prawns we had the Valmiñor. With a main of lamb in herbs we drank Musar (divine match!) and the rest of the Trio Infernal (appropriate name for us three at the table...). Then with a selection of cheeses (a Spanish blue cheese I forget the name of, Garrotxa and Roquefort) we drank the charming Chenin and some of Simmern's. The wines were all just wonderful with all the foods and Toni's cooking was brilliant. Thanks for the great time! Now for a short and easy run to clear the last cobwebs from my head...

• 2004 Trio Infernal Priorat No. 1/3 - Spain, Catalunya, Priorat (8/19/2007)
  A brambly nose of tobacco leaf and huge fruit. It is herbal and and fresh despite the concentration of fruit. The tannins are big, but balanced. A huge wine, but interesting and gladly doesn't show oak character.
• 2005 Adegas Valmiñor Davila L-100 - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (8/19/2007)
  100% Loureiro. The nose had pear-like fruit and nice minerality. The palate was quite full bodied, but had lovely, juicy acidity and a strong mineral presence. Long. A very nice white, but I find that Valmiñor's Davila (a blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Treixadura) is a more complete wine (and much cheaper also!) because all of its components fall effortlessly into place, while this one shows beautifully what it brings to the blend, but doesn't have that effortless grace. A very nice wine on its own, but great when blended.
• 1999 Chateau Musar - Lebanon, Bekaa Valley (8/19/2007)
  Sweet and bright and has a nice dose of dung. Yum!
• 1993 Domaine Laffourcade Quarts de Chaume Clos des Quarts - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume (8/19/2007)
  A lovely nose of apples and hay and flowers - this essence of Chenin has some botrytis and plentiful minerality added to it. The palate has a touch of RS but such a structure that it tastes almost dry. It is a full bodied wine with slightly bitter botrytis, but is so refreshing at the same time. Quite lovely!
• 1993 Langwerth Von Simmern Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Rheingau (8/19/2007)
  This is a lovely little wine! It costs only 15€ yet has an aged nose of petrol and earth and even red-toned spiciness to the rather forceful Rieslingness. The palate is off-dry (30g/l RS), moderately acidic (7,8 g/l), and otherwise just a lovely example of mature Riesling except that the aftertaste is a bit short.

Posted from CellarTracker

The Trio sounds like a nice wine, not an oak bomb. The Rias is one to look out for as I need more experience with whites from this area. So hard to find hence my Alvarino/Albarinho problems!

Glad to see you take my advice, Otto...

Glad to see you take my advice, Otto...

I always listen to what you have to say Victor - though I do sometimes disagree! Is the 2/3 as unoaky as the 1/3?

I would also be interested in your thoughts on Valmiñor's wines and especially what Treixadura brings to their blend? I've never tasted a varietal Treixadura, but on tasting Valmiñor's Albariño and now also their Loureiro, I can understand Davila's presicion better - but what I don't see is what Treixadura does...

Late edit: I also heard that Valmiñor has started experimenting with a barrel aged Albariño. What does oak do to such a grape? Can it really work?

-O-

I am puzzled by your Valmiñor wine, Otto - their only 100% loureiro that I know of is Dávila L-100.

Treixadura is a more delicate and perfumed variety than albariño. It's known as trajadura in Portugal. But its terroir of choice is not Rías Baixas - it does better in the drier Ribeiro, just inland on the Miño river.

Trio Infernal 1/3 is, of course, no oakier than 2/3. More complex and delicate too.

I am puzzled by your Valmiñor wine, Otto - their only 100% loureiro that I know of is Dávila L-100.

Treixadura is a more delicate and perfumed variety than albariño. It's known as trajadura in Portugal. But its terroir of choice is not Rías Baixas - it does better in the drier Ribeiro, just inland on the Miño river.

Thanks for the information Victor. It is indeed the Davila L-100 that we had - I'll go request that the name be changed properly to CellarTracker.