WTN: Meeting Rahsaan (7 French, 1 Italian wine)

A small group gathered last night at La Grolla on the Upper West Side to welcome Rahsaan Maxwell as he passed through town. Really nice group, I enjoyed the conversation. While the wines included no stunners, there were no real dogs either, and all held some interest. Food was mostly good, my lasagna with veal ragu was excellent, the mussels and lamb good (though in a place that has big verging on enormous portions, I was perplexed when the leg of lamb consisted of 3 tiny tournedos).

One nice thing about a party of five is that one can easily revisit each wine during the night, matching with food, trying with more air, etc.

Whites
1989 Denis Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec
Welcome to the chalk mine! Intense, high-acid, citric. Chalk. Fruit is on the sour side of grapefruit. Did I mention chalky? A little wax on the nose. This is really all about acids and (chalky) minerality; some are disappointed it's not more complex. It IS a bit of a one-trick pony, but one I'd happily ride. B+

2006 Pepiere Muscadet
A little warm at first, it shows alarmingly rounded. But as it chills it picks up crispness. It is a big bigger/rounder/riper than some vintages, but well within my comfort range, and a nice accompaniment to the mussels. B+
 
Reds
1983 Leoville-Poyferre (St Julien)
Double-decanted for sediment reasons in the afternoon. Dark fruit (black plum and cassis), a bit of cigarbox. Tannins resolved, fairly low acid but not flabby. Seems less deep than bottles served at home, always a tad iffy carrying older bottles into city and deciding whether or not to decant. I actually take leftovers with me for the train ride home, in the last glass the fruit is fading a bit and getting pruney, but the tobacco, cedar, and lead pencil notes are much stronger. I'll say B/B+ on this bottle, from a wine I've gone A- on before.

1999 La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino
My other contribution. Not decanted in advance, maybe should have, it got better with air. Rather fruit-driven, somewhat floral nose, big ripe black cherry, some moderate tannins, no obtrusive oak. The flower notes fade and it gets a little leathery with time. Probably in middle of the style spectrum, tilting slightly towards traditonal. Nice with the veal ragu. B+

2001 Fourrier "Cherbaudes" Gevrey-Chambertin 1er
I both looked forward to this (because I like Fourrier) and worried that it would be closed down. At first it seemed rather light for a Gevrey 1er, though it did have that Gevrey meatiness. But it quickly picked up weight with air,and surprised me with its fruitiness. Good cherry and red plum fruit, some floral notes, good length. Elegant for Gevrey. Final glass is probably my favorite red of evening. B+/A-

1997 Sorrell "La Greal" Hermitage
We debated whether this showed Hermitage typicity, but I confess to not drinking enough Hermitage to know. Riper low acid style of Syrah, blackberry fruit with a bit of leather and stony mineral on finish. Maybe not classic Northern Rhone, but good length and I enjoyed. B+

2004 Paris "Granit 60" Cornas
Very forward and grapey.  Very primary. I just really couldn't get into this, though there were no flaws, and I think everyone at table liked better than I did. B-
 
Dessert:
2003 La Coume du Roy Maury
Not sure I've ever had a Maury before. I expected something a bit port-like, but instead this reminded me of PX sherry. Thick, heavy, sweet. We debated whether this was dried fig or raisin, eventually we all met in the middle, though I held out for the dominance of the fig. Interesting to taste. A bit oxidative, quite long. But a tablespoon or so is plenty for me, just not my style. B-

Really nice to meet Rahsaan and Cliff, and to see Jeff and Arv again. Fun night.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Yes, it was a nice time, and while there may not have been any stunners, I was pleased with the generally high level of quality and there were a number of wines I wanted to keep drinking.

Especially the Fourrier and the Sorrel, both of which tasted best at the end of the night. I also don't drink enough Hermitage to speak about typicity, but it seemed to have enough meaty depth and firm profundity, despite the slightly soft overall package, to hold my interest.

I too was not impressed by the Paris, yet another bad showing for his wines for me, checking my notes it appears that I had this 04 Granit 60 last summer and found it similarly primary and uninteresting. Although respectable people do find him promising, so..

I also enjoyed the La Gerla and I rarely drink Brunello so I found it quite interesting. By the end of the evening the element of stern nails had me thinking that it showed similarities to nebbiolo but Jeff set me straight by informing me that it had nothing whatsoever in common with nebbiolo

Pish! It wasn't at all like nebbiolo. It was quite nice in its bright crunchy berry mid-palate turning to mulberry and minerals at the end. But the mouthfeel was too heavy, the florals were not right, no tar....

Let's add my thimble-full:

The Denis was labeled "Vignes de la Gaillarderie", whatever that means. I agree that it had a 7-Up flavor profile but I was less overwhelmed by chalk than you were. There was a bit of old lady's hanky and a bit of softly stewed tomato. I think I also got a whiff of rot way at the end so I'd be drinking these up in the next 3-5 years.

The Leoville-Poyferre was a bit tame, wasn't it?

The La Gerla was quite a nice wine. It's nice to find something in Brunello that isn't a modern oak horror.

I think I liked the Paris better than most at the table. It was, indeed, very young but I like the strict, dry, clean, blackberry-ness of it.

The Sorrel seemed also a bit round and gentle to me. (And yummy.)

The Maury was quite good: not too goopy, rather fine tannins, chocolate-y flavor, but I'm staying out of the Fig-or-Raisin thing....


Jeff

I think the chalk note was incredibly dominating when first open, and I fixated on it. You arrived a bit later.

I blame myself for the Poyferre's tameness. Always debate best way to deal with older bottles when I have a train ride and a subway on the way. A good bottle treated correctly (2 days upright, gentle decant an hour pre-dinner) is a good example of mature Bordeaux. I still enjoyed it, but not showing its all.

Sorry to be so late to this version of the party! Finally got registration worked out -- thanks Robin. Having finally made it, all I can do is agree. I think I liked the Fourrier more than most of the group. I had never tried this vineyard before. I think I liked the Maury less, despite having brought it. I agree that the Denis had some ripeness issues which may compromise future evolution, but it has taken so long to get where it is that I have a hard time seeing it fall apart before I do.

Best,
Cliff

. . . there were no real dogs either, . . .

After reading through the responses it sounds like pretty good company, too.
Best, Jim

It was indeed a good time and great to meet everyone.

good to see you here, Cliff!

I think I liked the Fourrier more than most of the group. I had never tried this vineyard before.

The internet says it is just below Mazis and near Clos de Beze.

Interesting, thanks. While it might not hit the heights of the Clos St. Jacques, that wine was mighty impressive young. It had detail and a smoky intensity that somehow combined with purity. I could easily get used to that stuff!

Now I'm really sorry I was busy moving that day.

Sounds like a nice selection of wines and the elusive Mr. Rosenberg was actually in attendance! Whenever I read your notes I'm surprised that we've never met (um, we haven't, have we?).

Any dinner with Fourrier is a good dinner.

Sorry to have missed you! No, it's true, we haven't met -- which I'd love to fix. I'm very much game for a Fourrier (or other) get together.

Now I'm really sorry I was busy moving that day..

Well hey, some things take priority..

Hope you're well settled in. For the time being at least..