I think it's in its prime.
This is the fifth bottle of this that I've inhaled, and each time the color has been a little darker and the structure a little more noticeable. I started out describing it as "clear strawberry-ruby" in December '05, and at that time it reminded me of a Beaujolais. Not true any longer. Lots of sediment and a crust of tartar on the end of the cork.
Dark ruby this time. Not terribly aromatic, smells and tastes of either mourvedre or zin, with some grenache brightness. Totally integrated, smooth tannin, medium long. So consistent across the tongue that I can't tell you what comes where. Mouth-filling but by no means overripe or flabby.
Rod didn't put the cepage on the label; one has to infer the likely grapes from the name and the location of the winery.
The bottle carries "Russian River Valley" as its appellation. Bought at the winery in October '05 for $12.60 ($14 less case discount). 13.9% alcohol.
I probably shouldn't brag about wines like this. They'll become popular and I won't be able to swill them willy-nilly.