WTN: 2006 Gabbiano Chianti

I’ve always purchased each vintage of these wines for years. As with most wines, Gabbiano has had good years and bad years but they always maintained the sangiovese / Italian character of the wine.

Then Beringer took over in 2001. I wondered at the time if that acquisition would change the nature of the winery. It did, but there were other factors also. 2002..I attributed to the vintage. Then 2003 rolled around..again an odd vintage due to heat. Then 2004 and 2005…Again and again, each vintage of chianti, CC or CCR are were more fruit forward, softer with much less acidity and darn right flabby in some cases. But it looks like they may have finally gotten it right in 2006.

As I always do, when the 06 Chianti showed up, I purchased a bottle just on the off chance that something may have changed at Gabbiano. I don’t know if it’s a vintage related change or a process / mgmt change, but the wine is very nice.

Simple and a bit one dimensional…as a chianti usually is, but with a mouthwatering acidity that makes it such a great match with food. Showing none of the flabby, candied fruit forwardness of the last 4 years. The nose is a bit shy, but shows characteristic leather and a hint of violets. All in all a move..it seems..back to a more traditional chianti.

I hope the winery continues this trend. I don’t think sangiovese will ever attain the acceptance of the general public like merlot or one of the other quaffers. Nor do I think sangiovese should try to mimic those qualities. In my opinion, its a wine distinctly suited to enjoyment with food.

About 7.50 / btl…

Richard

Good to read your notes, Richard. Is this the wine with the knight on horseback on the lable - multi-colored but mostly red?

Thats the one, Jon. This was the plain Chianti. Won't see the Classico for awhile yet. Same with the Riserva. I'm hoping those wines can carry through with the same success.

Richard

Thanks for the note, Richard. I find myself kissing a helluva lot of frogs in this Chianti price range, but I keep kissing. I'll look for the new Gabbiano.

Clinton,
another under $10 you might try is Piazzano. Betsy made a Lidia Bastianich dish of roast chicken with onions and potatoes last night;Lydia recommended Vino Nobile de Montepulciano with this, but I didn't have, so went with 2005 Piazzano Chianti. Surprised me by having some rather stern tannins, but they seemed to integrate quickly. Dusty black cherry fruit, a tiny floral hint, good acidity. After 30 minutes I was wondering if I had hallucinated the tannins, not apparent at all. Good wine at $8-9 level.

Thanks for notes Richard. I've also had less than thrilling experiences with Gabbiano recently, will try a 2006.

Dale--
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, the Fattoria di Piazzano is showing up at $15 in my market--and that's at the local warehouse spot.

I find myself kissing a helluva lot of frogs in this Chianti price range

Clinton,

Boy, isn't that the truth. I'm always looking for a decent $10.00 or below Chianti. And Gabbiano, under Arcainis' ownership, always fulfilled that need.

Richard