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TN: Frenchies

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Mark S

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TN: Frenchies

by Mark S » Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:07 pm

Lapeyre, Jurançon sec, 2005
A simple, washed-calcium lemon-lime zest of a wine followed by that 'dull thud' I find on the finish of wines made from the mansengs. Bottled under screwcap and about 8-9 bucks, so nothing to complain about here.

Boudin (Domaine de Chantemerle), Chablis 'Fouchaume', 2001
Initially, some matchstick upon opening that fades and opens to a soft lemon oil and yellow fruit world. Eventually, some cooked corn kernel shows. Just OK, and glad this was my final bottle.

Dom. Bott-Geyl, Gerwurztraminer, Furstentum, VT, 2000
I have always liked this producer's wines. they have a nice balance about them. A buterscotch gold color. There is a light litchi-rambutan rose oil aroma that comes across in the mouth, this is unctious but not heavy. More rose and ripe peach, the gerwurz aspects here are downplayed. Yummy.

Dom. Maestracci, Corse Calvi, 'E Prove' blanc, 2002
From Napoleon's island homeland, comes this wine made from vermentino and perhaps something else. Color is sunflower gold. A Very medcinal nose, almost like a bay-leaf men's aftershave lotion. Very herbal, with oregano and tarragon clumps and a nice calcium finish. Very nice. Probably the most herbal wine I've ever had, also, distinctive and of its place.

Coudert (Clos de la Roilette), Fleurie, cuvee tardive, 2002
Smoky red-black fruits on the nose, with smoked cherries, slight medicine cabinet, and a cherry-granite finish. Smooth, but has a robust power to it. At this stage, reminiscent of aged Burgundy. At a fractional cost. The 'horsey wine' delivers in a big way.

François Villard, Condrieu, 'les Terrasses du Palat, 2004
About once a year, usually in late summer-early fall, I get a craving for a viognier. Color here is a light transparent gold. Metallic aromas, with spring fruits, white peach and the very lightest, unripe canteloupe. Delicate white peaches, with a lacy, slightly chalky finish. Noted more for it's elegant airyness than for power. Would definate try this producer in a upcoming year.

Cuvee du Vatican, CDP,'reserve sixtine', 2000
Brooding dark purple tinted dark red. Aromatically rather closed, revealing some menthol and blood notes. A little more accessible on the palate, with dark fruits,bull's blood, kirsch, and that menthol-mint note. Some oak in evidence, but it doesn't take over the wine (yet), this is a masculine, burly styled, modern Chateauneuf, that - while not the style I admire - I would still drink. Tannins still clamping down on the finish suggest this is still quite young.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: TN: Frenchies

by Bill Hooper » Fri Sep 07, 2007 8:44 pm

Isn't the Villard gorgeous? I've found them to shut down quickly only to emerge with a vengeance. Nice that it was showing so well now.
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Re: TN: Frenchies

by Mark S » Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:18 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:Isn't the Villard gorgeous? I've found them to shut down quickly only to emerge with a vengeance. Nice that it was showing so well now.


Yup, it was, Bill. Usually, Condrieus impress for their openly flamboyant selves and a dash of alcohol, but this one hit me with a spring-like floweryness that was very light on its feet. What's the aging curve like on these? As for myself, the only Condrieu I've had with age on it that still showed well has been Chateau Grillet.

Best,

Mark
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Bill Hooper

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Re: TN: Frenchies

by Bill Hooper » Sat Sep 08, 2007 11:13 pm

There is much debate and debacle these days about the pedigree of Chateau Grillet v. Condrieu. Many people say that Grillet has lost it's edge and is surviving only because of reputation, miniscule availablity and the fact that it is the second smallest AOC in France (La Romanee being the smallest.) I have a bottle of 2000 tucked away for drinking this year or next (Chateau Grillet and Jancis Robinson both recommend at least 8 years of bottle age before drinking, not that it's gospel.) But better Condrieu -Villard, Gaillard, Chapoutier, Alain Paret etc. are not only half the price, but meant to age gracefully. Like Roussanne, Viognier dumbs down within a few years and gradually awakens after 5 or 6. The best examples will go for 20-30 years (so I'm told. The oldest bottle of Condrieu I've had was 16 years old.) I'll pop the Chateau Grillet soon and post a TN.
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