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WTN: A Rioja treat.

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Tim York

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WTN: A Rioja treat.

by Tim York » Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:05 pm

Our little tasting group met at Gert’s place for an Iberian tasting theme. As it turned out, all the wines except the starter were Rioja. It comes as no surprise how good a line-up of Rioja classics can be but it is encouraging for me to note that the “modern” San Vicente and Amancio do not appear upstart and vulgar in this company. These both come from the same Eguren stable and spur me on to try their allegedly “spoofulated” products from Toro, if I can afford them.


Rias Baixas Albariño 2005 from Castro Martin

As delicious as the bottle on which I did a WTN for Wine Focus but the accompanying food was more suitable here. 16/20.


Rioja Rosado “Viña Tondonia” 1995 from R. Lopez de Heredia

Unusual. Elegant aromatics impregnated with vanilla, very dry and quite long. Gert says that it was only getting into its stride 24 hours later showing better fruit and balance. 14,5/20 but + next day.


Rioja tinto crianza “Viña Tondonia” 1954 from R. Lopez de Heredia

An extraordinarily young looking colour!? Showing attractive sour cherry aromas and fruit together with some depth and complexity but also showing slight rancid and cheesy notes indicating decline. However it held up quite well in the glass. Some love old wines like this but, for me, 14,5/20; but I guess it was +++.


Rioja “Viña Real” Gran Reserva 1970 from CVNE

This bottle showed mould on the capsule, considerable ullage (level about one third down the sloping shoulders) and a crumbing cork, so we approached it with considerable misgivings. In the event the wine proved excellent. After a few seconds of shyness, it blossomed into a velvety, “sweetly” harmonious and long mature Rioja with, however, a slight loss of richness and fruit and a drier finish than my memories of a superb bottle of the same at a vertical 6 years ago. (See footnote.) 17/20; it was 18/20.


Rioja “San Vicente” 1996 from Señorio de San Vicente
Deeper colour that the previous. Bold, rich complex fruit, velvety mouth-feel, good depth and length with delightful notes of cigar box. Maybe “modern” in its boldness but harmonious and quite classically shaped on the palate. 16,5/20 with + potential.


Rioja “Amancio” 2001 from Bodegas Sierra Cantabria
Wow! Almost black. Rich complex aromas on the nose leading to an incredible “fortissimo” attack on the palate which shows intensely deep, rich and complex fruit and structure within a millimetre of being jammy but redeemed by an attractively liveliness and class; thereafter there is a diminuendo though mid palate towards a long finish. This is up-front and “modern” but, unlike most of its kind, stylish. I have doubts whether this will age gracefully but it is really exciting right now. 17,5/20 with ? potential.


Rioja Vino del Año 1994 from Martinez de Ayala

Thanks to Gert’s advocacy we know how long lived yet discreetly but deliciously fruity and classically elegant are the wines of this little known bodega. The wines underwent “macération carbonique” but their track record for graceful ageing is indisputable. However I feared that this one would be overshadowed by the Amancio but I need not have worried.

Much more discreet than the former but with authority and a classical shape in the mouth, entering the palate “piano” building up towards the rear of the palate then dying down into a deliciously fragrant aftertaste. It shows deep complex fruit with cherry notes and still a certain firmness of structure. Gert says that the 1995 is much more expressive right now but this 1994 will surely open up much more to become a really great bottle. Alas, 1995 was, I think, this bodega’s last vintage. 17,5/20 with ++ potential.


(Footnote: My TN from a vertical of Viña Real Gran Reserva in 2001

- 1970 - N: Rich and complex. P: Rich, discreetly sensual and deep w chocolate hints and ripe structure. I managed to buy the shop's last bottle of this. Excellent. )
Tim York

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