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What's this cassis stuff anyway?

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John Treder

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What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by John Treder » Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:49 pm

I keep hearing about "cassis" as a flavor in cab. I never met a cassis. It could be a flbrght as far as I would know.

Is there another term that a native of the SF Bay area might know?

The rant arises because I cooked a porterhouse tonight and opened a Napa cab. A little tart-fruit and a little tannin on opening. After an hour and a half, with dinner, ripe nearly plummy fruit, well integrated tannin, not much aroma, medium length. GBNG. Beltramo's, 14.1% alcohol

It's Paradigm, Napa Valley, Estate Bottled, for which I paid a whopping $36 at Beltramo's back in January '04. I guess I must have been feeling rich.

It's good wine, suitable for the excellent meat, but not a great value. I think I'd have liked it better had I not opened it so soon. It lost whatever distinction I noticed at the beginning.

Is cassis "tart fruit"?
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:05 pm

Blackcurrant.

Although I don't know if I've seen it in CA, or the US in general..
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:06 pm

John - Santa Clara wrote:Is cassis "tart fruit"?


But yes, most cassis does have a funky strip of acid running through it. Although it is more than just tart. Curranty as well.
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Clint Hall

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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Clint Hall » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:20 am

John, if you want to find out what cassis tastes like you can buy black currant [cassis] juice in some supermarkets. Trader Joe's carries it. The stuff is indeed terribly tart, and I suspect some tasters who use the term to describe cabs are getting it mixed up with something else. I drink Trader Joe's Black Current juice to replace the potasium I lose in long distance cycling, but to get past the tartness I have to mix it with other juices. It reminds me of no wine.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Mark Lipton » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:20 am

Rahsaan wrote:Blackcurrant.

Although I don't know if I've seen it in CA, or the US in general..


I've seen black currants for sale at the N. Berkeley farmer's market IIRC. However, it's easier to learn the flavor from a bottle of Creme de Cassis (not to be confused with the wine of Cassis AOC).

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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Rahsaan » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:26 am

Mark Lipton wrote:I've seen black currants for sale at the N. Berkeley farmer's market IIRC.


Aha. Ok. Interesting.

Probably from Napa :wink:
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Clint Hall » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:32 am

Mark Lipton wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:Blackcurrant.

Although I don't know if I've seen it in CA, or the US in general..


I've seen black currants for sale at the N. Berkeley farmer's market IIRC. However, it's easier to learn the flavor from a bottle of Creme de Cassis (not to be confused with the wine of Cassis AOC).

Mark Lipton
Director of Currant Affairs


Yeah, that's probably what Cabernet tasters are referring to, Creme de Cassis, which isn't extremely tart like cassis the fruit or cassis juice.

Of course Cassis the white wine, from the small Cassis AOC near the Med, is another thing (and tasty with fish, although unimpressive at wine tastings).
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Rahsaan » Mon Sep 17, 2007 1:45 am

Clint Hall wrote:Yeah, that's probably what Cabernet tasters are referring to, Creme de Cassis, which isn't extremely tart like cassis the fruit or cassis juice..


Maybe the Napa cabs. But some Bordeaux can come closer to that tart taut energy of the fruit itself. Although the fruit does veer off towards some extreme funkiness at times.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Steve Slatcher » Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:32 am

Cassis is a French word. If you write tasting notes in English, why not use either "blackcurrant" or "Crème de Cassis"? Then those who speak English will understand.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Robin Garr » Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:28 am

Clint Hall wrote:Yeah, that's probably what Cabernet tasters are referring to, Creme de Cassis, which isn't extremely tart like cassis the fruit or cassis juice.


I'm 99.44% certain that this is correct - Cassis the descriptor refers to cassis the liqueur. Also, it's really a scent descriptor, not a flavor descriptor, so tart or sweet isn't really an issue. Blackcurrant with an herbaceous element, which (in my opinion) falls pretty close on the aroma wheel to Napa "eucalyptus."
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by JC (NC) » Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:01 am

I use it referring to creme de cassis which I first encountered in Dijon in Kir (white wine, often aligote, mixed with creme de cassis liqueur.) You can also purchase red currant or black currant jam or preserves to get the flavor and aroma of the fruits--probably sweetened in the making of the jam so not as tart as the natural fruit.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Dale Williams » Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:22 am

I tend to use cassis a fair amount, more or less interchangably with blackcurrant but maybe indicating a little sweeter/lusher profile. In addition to creme de cassis, some French jellies use cassis on label.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Clint Hall » Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:44 am

steve.slatcher wrote:Cassis is a French word. If you write tasting notes in English, why not use either "blackcurrant" or "Crème de Cassis"? Then those who speak English will understand.


That sounds like a reasonable way to make the distinction between the two: forget about cassis and use blackcurrant to identify the tart stuff and Creme de Cassis for the sweeter.
Last edited by Clint Hall on Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by JC (NC) » Mon Sep 17, 2007 11:58 am

While I have seen black currant as two words most often, and one word occasionally, it is spelled with an 'a,' not an 'e.' Current refers to timely, in the present, etc. The fruit is 'currant.' To confuse things more, the British refer to "currants" in scones when what is really used is the Corinth grape according to one source:

Source is Prairienet.org, Prairieland Community Supported Agriculture (Illinois)

Recipes:
Black currants are not the same as the tiny Corinth grapes of which English scones are often made. Instead, their earthy, rich flavor is used to make the liqueur, Cassis, as well as provide flavoring for many desserts. Black currant sauces also are good with grilled foods.. Black currant's flavor is complemented by cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg, as well as chiles. These berries also go well with dark chocolate, vanilla, and pear.

Black Currant Sauce
Wash currants and measure. Place currants in a heavy, non-aluminum sauce pan. Add sugar in an amount equal to half or all of the currants, depending upon your preference. Heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally to mash berries and make sure they don't stick. When the mixture becomes a thickened sauce after about 10 minutes, remove from heat and let cool. If mixture is not sweet enough, add more sugar and reheat until sugar is dissolved.

Use sauce over vanilla ice cream and serve with chocolate brownies.This sauce also is good over poached pears or pear ice cream. Alternatively, you can mix this sauce into your favorite barbecue sauce and add some chili pepper (a single chipotle works well) for a spicy, sweet sauce that is great on poultry and seitan. You may also add a pinch of cinnamon, a dash of cloves, and/or a few gratings of whole nutmeg to this sauce.

Black Currant Italian Sodas & Black Currant Brownies
Put the finished sauce from above through a fine sieve or food mill. The juice/syrup can be added to soda water to create something that resembles an Italian soda. Save the resulting paste to flavor brownies by replacing an egg with two tablespoons of currant paste. Store the syrup in a sterilized glass bottle in your refrigerator as you would fruit pancake syrups. The paste can be refrigerated for several weeks or frozen in a freezer bag.

Black Currant Preserves
For each pound of currants, add one pound of sugar, and 1 cup of juice (raspberry, red currant, or cranberry). Heat together in a non-aluminum sauce pan until mixture reaches boiling. Do not stir, but shake the pan occasionally. Skim foam with a spoon being careful not to remove berry mixture. Boil for 10 to 15 minutes. Pour into just cleaned jars. Store in refrigerator, or if making a large quantity, process with a pressure cooker. Use on English muffins, crumpets, or in recipes like Black Currant Tea and Cassis Brownies.

Black Currant Sorbet

Back to Produce Recipes
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by John Treder » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:20 pm

Whatever "curranty" tastes like.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by John Treder » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:25 pm

I'm 99.44% certain
Do you float? <g>

Ok, I've even seen creme de cassis liqueur in the store, but don't think I've ever tasted it.

What I was tasting in the Paradigm certainly wasn't anything close to eucalyptus. It was tangy as blackberries or raspberries are tangy, but it didn't have the flavor of berries. And the tang disappeared in the hour and a half after I opened it.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Paul Winalski » Mon Sep 17, 2007 12:41 pm

"Cassis" the wine descriptor most definitely refers to the liqueur, creme de cassis. Or to blackcurrant jam. Cabernet sauvignon in particular often seems to have the blackcurrant aroma. I was mystified by this descriptor, too, until I had my first taste of blackcurrant jam. Then it all became clear.

-Paul W.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Oliver McCrum » Mon Sep 17, 2007 2:23 pm

Many restaurants keep a bottle of cassis around to make Kir, or Vin Blanc Cassis, a dash of creme de cassis added to dry white wine. Just ask them for the cassis.

I think it's one classic descriptor for ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, but it also occurs in Sauvignon (once you get past the idea of a deep purple aroma in a white wine).
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Hoke » Mon Sep 17, 2007 2:49 pm

Oliver McCrum wrote:Many restaurants keep a bottle of cassis around to make Kir, or Vin Blanc Cassis, a dash of creme de cassis added to dry white wine. Just ask them for the cassis.

I think it's one classic descriptor for ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, but it also occurs in Sauvignon (once you get past the idea of a deep purple aroma in a white wine).


Just so, Oliver...and that's one reason I don't associate cassis/blackcurrant descriptors of wine with the creme de cassis or currant jams. I consider the descriptor as much a description of that leafy/herbaceous/tart berry aroma as of the jammy components. More so, actually. The creme de cassis, to me, indicates a gobbiness/jamminess that is often not at all in a Bordeaux Cabernet or Sauvignon. So I'm keying off the particular intensity of the berry, the tart fruit, the gamy/herbal qualities of the raw fruit, and the musky, sauvage smell that distinguishes it from, say, cherries, or blueberries, or raspberries or strawberries.

And as for kir/vin blanc de cassis, the original reason for creating that concoction had to do with the berries, but also with the sugar to soften the extreme acidity of aligote, then a hideously acidic white wine.

Sooooo...if you're trying to figure out what the hell the descriptor means, you can't just sniff a creme de cassis, or lap up a jar of blackcurrant preserves (after all, that's all processed stuff); you also have to smell/taste the fresh berries if you get the chance.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Oliver McCrum » Mon Sep 17, 2007 3:11 pm

Hoke,

I respectfully disagree. I think the best cassis (Trenel, for example, if I recall correctly, is excellent and fairly available) captures the nature of the fruit, including that wild high-toned veggie note. There used to be a non-alcoholic drink called Ribena that we used as kids that did the same thing.

I think really good jam is a good way of capturing the essence of a fruit; when I was studying blind tasting I used to use them for that purpose. How else are you going to find gooseberry, for example, to extend the Sauvignon Blanc flavor profile?
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Hoke » Mon Sep 17, 2007 4:06 pm

Oliver, I'm not familiar with Trenel so I can't disagree with you there. I do recognize there are superior products out there, of course, and I'm more than ready to admit Trenel may be one of them.

I recall a long visit to Jacoulot, in Romaneche-Thorins; they do Marc Extra Vielle that is astounding, as well as an extensive line of sirops and macerated liqueurs that are of amazing quality---cherry, yellow plum, raspberry and others----and are as true to type in fruit as you could demand.

But most of the sirops of fruit are very, very different from that: they are sticky-sweet concoctions that emphasize the jamminess, just fruit flavorings in syrup.

Actually, a good way to experience aromas of fruits and veggies is to make wine macerations. Simple, easy to do, and boy do they carry the aromas and flavors exceptionally well. You find them all over the place in Europe too. When we were spending a week in the Ventoux some years ago, the woman who owned our gite invited us down for cocktails and served four different wine macerations for us. They were all great.

How else are you going to find gooseberry, for example, to extend the Sauvignon Blanc flavor profile?




Heck, you can find gooseberries if you want to. :) They're not in every Safeway, sure, but you can find them. Shucks, everytime I go up to Alberta, I'm inundated with gooseberries. They serve them with most meals up there.

Oh, I use jams, preserves, and jellies as well, Oliver. But I do caution folks that these are processed foods, and the farther you get away from the natural state, the farther you get away from the aromas and flavors. And once you've introduced sugar into the equation, you've changed the essential nature of the fruit to a degree. If nothing else, a person exposed to blackcurrant preserves as their first taste of what a blackcurrant is supposed to be will always associate the thought of blackcurrants with a sweet and sticky substance, not a tart, linear, intense wild fruit/herbal flavor.

Or to put it another way: if all you've ever had in your life was strawberry preserves....would you know what a strawberry smelled or tasted like?

(Just look at all those Turley-ized wines, if you don't believe gobby doesn't change things. :twisted:)
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by JC (NC) » Mon Sep 17, 2007 5:36 pm

I forgot to mention that since it had been some years since I had Creme de Cassis or Kir, I also bought black currant teabags. The teabags have a very distinctive aroma which brought to mind the Cassis and refreshed my memory.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Carl Eppig » Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:02 pm

Agree with Paul on the Creme de Cassis and Blackcurrant jam. It may be a moot point, but be sure the jam is from England. As Robin says it can't be too tart or sweet, and the English jam we've had hits it on the head. It is much less expensive that the liqueur.
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Re: What's this cassis stuff anyway?

by Oliver McCrum » Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:33 pm

Carl Eppig wrote:Agree with Paul on the Creme de Cassis and Blackcurrant jam. It may be a moot point, but be sure the jam is from England. As Robin says it can't be too tart or sweet, and the English jam we've had hits it on the head. It is much less expensive that the liqueur.


I use Tiptree jams from England, which are excellent and not too expensive.
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