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WTN: Vietnamese Whites

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Rahsaan

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WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:48 am

So now that I'm back in Berkeley, I figured it was time to round up a few locals and see what entertainment we could provide ourselves with.

Tonight was Bodega Bistro, a delightfully delicious Vietnamese restaurant in SF that required walking through a particularly raunchy stretch of the Tenderloin where the controlled substances on offer were far beyond the fermented grapes in my box.

I arrive a few minutes late, but Larry Stein, Claude Kolm, and Bryan Loofbourrow have already started guzzling the 1979 Baumard Savennieres Clos du Papillon, which had a lovely waxy comfortable texture, but not much complexity. Claude claims this is a general issue with the pitfalls of winemaking at the time. Bryan finds more weight and substance as it airs, although I don't, but there are many other items competing for our attention.

One of the first competitors is the Sekthaus Raumland Chardonnay Prestige Brut which has apparently been highly touted by some Internet Wine People. This bottle in fact is so high that the cork flies into the ceiling, causing general merriment for the crowds and only minor structural damage to the building. Back down at the table the wine seems correct, frothy, and leaning in the mineral direction. But again, it doesn't hold my attention, especially as at this point Shira begins protracted negotiations with the WaitStaff to compose dishes that suit her exact needs.

The rest of us however are happily grazing on the various regular menu items that are quite delicious, and popping the 2001 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhof Auslese Trocken "S" which is surprisingly friendly from the corkpull (at least for my expectations of 2001 sweet wines) and showing a nice package of mellow, slightly offdry, spunky spicy fruit.

Taking things back a bit, Bryan opens the 1971 Schloss Reinhartshausener Hattenheimer Hassel Spatlese and there is talk of paint thinner, inferior vineyard, falling off of the finish, etc, etc. But, despite those "flaws", I enjoy coming back to this throughout the evening, for its mature mellow comfortableness. Yumm..

A brilliant juxtaposition is the 2001 Hirtzberger Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd which is a full-throttle beast upon opening. Claude finds it enjoyable for the acid-heads, I find it improving a great deal with air as the minerality emerges to balance the fullbore fruit. Bryan and Larry are a touch more critical, finding the alcohol too apparent, and suggesting that it should go back to sleep for another decade. (In that sense, lucky Claude, because randomly he also brought a bottle of this wine that we didn't need to open)..

Shifting to red wine for the poached beef (or whatever it was that those carnivores were eating) the 1995 Clape Cornas was a gem of a treat. Larry had picked up the bottle from a random shop with the label torn off, so we were prepared to guess the vintage using only our palates until Claude correctly identified the code etched into the bottle. But regardless of that intrigue, the wine was in a lovely place, gushing Cornas fruit in a comfortable tame-ish way. Lovely.

Still, we had to plod through pours of the 1998 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Spatlese which everyone agreed was way too young and needed another decade in the cellar. Perhaps some slight debate over potential upside, with a brief discussion of when and where Grunhaus went downhill. But, it was also time to focus on the curious frozen strawberries filled with wild sauvage funky cream.

Or something like that.

Good times.
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Jenise » Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:20 am

But regardless of that intrigue, the wine was in a lovely place, gushing Cornas fruit in a comfortable tame-ish way. Lovely.


I have yet to have a '95 Northern Rhone that wasn't in "a lovely place" right now. I would drink every one I have--if I had any more. Sounds like a great dinner; nice to see Bryan's name around, too.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:24 pm

Jenise wrote:I have yet to have a '95 Northern Rhone that wasn't in "a lovely place" right now. I would drink every one I have--if I had any more. Sounds like a great dinner; nice to see Bryan's name around, too.


Yes, good to see Bryan in person as well. Fresh off his trip to Spain for tapas and sherry..

Glad to hear that you've been having good experiences with 95 Northern Rhones. We just found a bottle of 1995 Tardieu Laurent Cote Rotie in our basement, but somehow I don't expect it to provide as much pleasure as the Clape..
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James Dietz

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by James Dietz » Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:51 pm

Hmmm.....title tease?? I was expecting a report on Vietnamese wines!!!
Cheers, Jim
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Bob Ross

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Bob Ross » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:07 pm

What a great group of wine lovers, Rahsaan.

Wines weren't bad either. Like Jenise, I look forward every time to the '95 Northern Rhones, and they haven't disappointed.

Thanks for the notes.
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AlexR

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by AlexR » Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:54 pm

... a bunch of interesting wines (even if I can't pronounce the names), but not a single Vietamese white among them.

Je reste sur ma faim....

Alex
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:36 pm

AlexR wrote:... a bunch of interesting wines (even if I can't pronounce the names)


Savennieres and Cornas may not be Bordeaux. But perhaps you've run across them nonetheless.. :lol:
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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by AlexR » Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:00 pm

Schloss Reinhartshausener Hattenheimer Hassel Spatlese

Hirtzberger Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

I'll leave those for a future reincarnation....

Alex
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Vietnamese Whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:10 pm

AlexR wrote:Schloss Reinhartshausener Hattenheimer Hassel Spatlese

Hirtzberger Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd


Yes, I see how they could be difficult to pronounce.

Especially because I was lazy and omitted the umlauts.. :wink:

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