Trimbach Riesling Vendanges Tardives Clos Ste-Hune 1989
Sounds incredible, but this again (same as three months ago) needed 12 hours of airing, and currently behaves as if it had just come out of its fruit phase and was now in an in-between phase, finally making up its mind to acquire some tertiary characteristics (which is literally incredible, since it has been showing some more signs of maturity, both aromatically and in its depth of flavour). Started out impressively enough, high-acid and hugely salty with minerality the first night (like the 1990 when it was young), after 12 hours mild, rich, round and smooth with complex botrytised, nicely medium-sweet fruit and perfectly integrated soil notes. Rating: 96+/97 – just not immediately after the cork was pulled
Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico Reserva 1994
Thanks to Remo. Quite deep ruby-red with black reflections. Half-approachable, half not, nicely finesseful, caper, graphite, minerally-stony, morello and black cherry, faint bitter chocolate and earth, backed by good acidity and racy tannins that are a bit tea- and coffee-like. Some green tobacco with airing. Nicely multi-layered, but started out a bit short on the finish, as Anita quickly noted. At its fruitiest and smoothest (and perhaps longest) after four hours in the decanter. Structurally reminiscent of the 1970, without its potential smoothness. Very youthful, albeit not painfully young; not easy to judge – probably the finest in recent years, I do not think it is on the level of the greatest Unicos of all time, e.g. 1968 and 1970). Remo thought this approachable enough, but I am rather convinced it is only showing the tip of the iceberg at present. I tend to have little or no expectations when tasting something new (or a new vintage), thus cannot say I was disappointed, but it will be good to keep in mind there is no return to that ancient Riserva style of old here. Perhaps more so than before, the style comes across as of Bordeaux (maybe a virtual cross of Pauillac or St. Julien and St. Emilion in this vintage), if primarily made of Tempranillo – a Bordeaux with a Spanish touch now almost more rather than the other way round. Having said that, the impressive soil notes, primarily the quite intense minerality, speak for themselves, and can be assumed to gain the upper hand in time. Rating: 94+/95(+?)
Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Vino da Tavola Ornellaia 2001
Thanks to Oliver. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 14.6% alcohol. Opaque purple-ruby-red. Not exclusively a Supertuscan fruit bomb in this vintage, although undeniably an easy-to-interpret, “sexy” wine. Quite tannic, structured, well-concentrated. Good body, bigger than the 1994 Unico (at least at this early stage), as well as more low-acid. But less finely grained tannin, more oak-induced by the vanilla oak. Fair enough freshness of violet- and licorice-tinged berry fruit. Fruity yet firm. Good length. The freshest and raciest Ornellaia in recent years? As well as this was drinking, and as (relatively speaking!) balanced and thus ageworthy as it was, the older I get, the more I long to drink old stylistic favourites – old-style wines. But highly recommended to admirers of this bottling! Rating: 92+/93?
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1999
From magnum thanks to Christian. Medium-deep ruby-red, the lightest-coloured among the reds that night. A feminine Monfortino, in the mould of the 1990 rather than e.g. the 1978. Blood orange zest and pulp, some half-dried lavender, wax, marzipan, soft minerality. Great balance and early harmony, albeit half-closed now already. Already quite finesseful. Lovely “fruity” (or fruit tea-like) tannin. 12 hours later more dried rose petal, more tannic grip. We had quite a long discussion on where in the qualitative hierarchy we would currently place this (or more to the point, whether one absolutely needs to have some). It may eventually turn out to be as good as the 1990 Monfortino, less sweet and floral maybe, but perhaps with greater finesse to the tannin. To put it into perspective amongst other young top Piedmontese Nebbiolos we (re-)tasted this year, it does not currently show better than Giacosa’s 2000 Riserva Le Rocche (no similarly young Barolo does, nor indeed should), but there can be no doubt it is a more promising cellar candidate. It may be on a similar level of quality as Giacosa’s 2001 Riserva Rabajà and 1996 Riserva Asili, but I would not bet on it (and those are/were both less expensive). As Remo reminded me of, even if Monfortino stylistically remains a favourite of mine, the 1999 appears to be no match for Gaja’s 1997 Sperss or Sorì Tildìn. In short, it is not a wine I feel the same urge to own as Giacosa’s 1996 Riserva Falletto (again, much less costly). Needless to say, I would love to revisit it in two or three decades from now, so please hurry, get some and remember to beam me up/over to your place then!
Rating: 94+/95+?
Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 1997
Reportedly from a yield of only 24 hl/ha. 275 cases made. Minor powdery sediment makes it necessary to decant this. Opaque garnet-ruby-red. Deep and hyper-concentrated fruit, black cherry jam and raspberry puree with a touch of Château Lafleur-like Kirsch liqueur. Perhaps a shade less complex and minerally than Voerzio’s (even more Lafleur-like) Cerequio from the same vintage? Terrific, if not unique purity. Enormously rich and dense, quite powerful and full-bodied. Nicely firm and very persistent on the finish. Youthful, balanced, no doubt structured to age. The modern style shows in comparison to the Monfortino’s: whereas the vanilla barrique is very well integrated (so much better than e.g. in Voerzio’s 1990s), my main concern is that barrique-induced tannins cannot be expected to develop the black tea-like finesse of a Fuder-aged Riserva style wine like the Monfortino (but instead tend to mask them in the long run – at least partially), the reason I tend to be cautious praising barrique-aged Nebbiolo. But what can you say when a wine is showing so well? Oliver’s positive surprise of the evening, and a wine we all were mightily impressed with. Rating: 96
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti