by Dale Williams » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:20 pm
I was bushed after a speech at a college in southern NJ today, but a friend had put me on the list for a Burgundy tasting at Zachys. I dragged myself over, and was glad I did. These invite tastings are really nice- plenty of room, nice wines being poured, tasty hors d'ouerves making the rounds (my fave was a foie gras mousse tartlet). The only bad thing was- I showed something to a friend as I was leaving, and realized later didn't get my little tasting list pamplet back.
So here's a quick shot from memory. Be aware I have no written notes, and as always at a store tasting these are quick impressions from small (but not miniscule) pours:
I skipped the Champagne, as I had tried (Ellner, quite good)
White Burgs:
First up was the '05 Sauzet village Puligny, and I really liked. Quite ripe, but plenty of acidity, some hazelnut, quite good. I probably liked it was much as the pricier Sauzet 1er (I think Referts).
No one else seemed to be too impressed with the '05 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc. The hell with them, I loved it. Mineral, big, fruity but with plenty in reserve. I would have bought this, but it needs time, and I am still a bit nervous re oxidation in white Burgs these days. However, I didn't care for the Drouhin Meursault Charmes at all. Seemed cheesy/musty (but not corked). A Henri Boillot Meursault 1er ws much better than the Drouhin, but I can't remember vineyard (started with a P). Powerful wine.
The '05 Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne was quite the stud, lots of power, but a mineral/earth finish. Great acidity.
Burgundy Reds:
The 2005 Geantet-Pansiot "Champs Perdrix" Marsannay was easily the biggest Marsannay I've tasted in my life. Modern, but tasty. There was an '05 Santenay from a producer I forget, easily the biggest Santenay I've run across. Both had big fruit, and big tannins. Luckily Zachys had plenty of little bottles of Poland Springs around. This is a vintage to age.
The '05 Raphet village Gevrey was also big, but quite balanced. Earthy, meaty, true to village. Picked up one. The '05 Groffier Gevrey is quite oaky and forward, big but inviting. In a slutty kind of way, I told pourer it has attractions, but not a wine you could take home to mother.
There was a '05 Morey St Denis 1er from Domaine des Lambrays that seemed quite nice, but price was about what I paid for the Clos des Lambrays. Moving back a couple vintages, lots of folks seemed to like the 2002 Magnien Chambolle. Don't put me in that camp. However, I liked the 2005 Drouhin Chambolle 1er a lot. Fresh bright fruit, ripe tannins, earth, mineral, long finish.There were a couple of Volnays (Boillot and Bouley?) that seemed closed to me.
The 2004 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin charmed me, enough that I bought a bottle. The '05 Raphet Charmes Chambertin was also good, but I didn't spring for that one. An '05 Girardin Corton (Renardes?) seemed typically Girardin to me, though someone said he has cut back on oak. A '05 Pousse d'Or Corton also seemed oaky and extracted, but I liked it a lot despite my usual prejudices.
There were other wines - a couple forgettable Faiveley GCs, a good Echezeaux.
One of the nicest store tastings I've been too. I only bought the '04 Bachelet Charmes and the '05 Raphet Gevrey (as well as some Germans), but several others are on my list.