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TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

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Dale Williams

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TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by Dale Williams » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:20 pm

I was bushed after a speech at a college in southern NJ today, but a friend had put me on the list for a Burgundy tasting at Zachys. I dragged myself over, and was glad I did. These invite tastings are really nice- plenty of room, nice wines being poured, tasty hors d'ouerves making the rounds (my fave was a foie gras mousse tartlet). The only bad thing was- I showed something to a friend as I was leaving, and realized later didn't get my little tasting list pamplet back.

So here's a quick shot from memory. Be aware I have no written notes, and as always at a store tasting these are quick impressions from small (but not miniscule) pours:

I skipped the Champagne, as I had tried (Ellner, quite good)

White Burgs:
First up was the '05 Sauzet village Puligny, and I really liked. Quite ripe, but plenty of acidity, some hazelnut, quite good. I probably liked it was much as the pricier Sauzet 1er (I think Referts).

No one else seemed to be too impressed with the '05 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Blanc. The hell with them, I loved it. Mineral, big, fruity but with plenty in reserve. I would have bought this, but it needs time, and I am still a bit nervous re oxidation in white Burgs these days. However, I didn't care for the Drouhin Meursault Charmes at all. Seemed cheesy/musty (but not corked). A Henri Boillot Meursault 1er ws much better than the Drouhin, but I can't remember vineyard (started with a P). Powerful wine.

The '05 Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne was quite the stud, lots of power, but a mineral/earth finish. Great acidity.

Burgundy Reds:
The 2005 Geantet-Pansiot "Champs Perdrix" Marsannay was easily the biggest Marsannay I've tasted in my life. Modern, but tasty. There was an '05 Santenay from a producer I forget, easily the biggest Santenay I've run across. Both had big fruit, and big tannins. Luckily Zachys had plenty of little bottles of Poland Springs around. This is a vintage to age.

The '05 Raphet village Gevrey was also big, but quite balanced. Earthy, meaty, true to village. Picked up one. The '05 Groffier Gevrey is quite oaky and forward, big but inviting. In a slutty kind of way, I told pourer it has attractions, but not a wine you could take home to mother.

There was a '05 Morey St Denis 1er from Domaine des Lambrays that seemed quite nice, but price was about what I paid for the Clos des Lambrays. Moving back a couple vintages, lots of folks seemed to like the 2002 Magnien Chambolle. Don't put me in that camp. However, I liked the 2005 Drouhin Chambolle 1er a lot. Fresh bright fruit, ripe tannins, earth, mineral, long finish.There were a couple of Volnays (Boillot and Bouley?) that seemed closed to me.

The 2004 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin charmed me, enough that I bought a bottle. The '05 Raphet Charmes Chambertin was also good, but I didn't spring for that one. An '05 Girardin Corton (Renardes?) seemed typically Girardin to me, though someone said he has cut back on oak. A '05 Pousse d'Or Corton also seemed oaky and extracted, but I liked it a lot despite my usual prejudices.

There were other wines - a couple forgettable Faiveley GCs, a good Echezeaux.

One of the nicest store tastings I've been too. I only bought the '04 Bachelet Charmes and the '05 Raphet Gevrey (as well as some Germans), but several others are on my list.
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Paul Winalski

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Re: TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by Paul Winalski » Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:49 pm

Dale,

Thanks for the notes. I got spoiled by the days of the cheap dollar (I remember when it was 7+ francs per dollar), and I still see the prices of today's Burgundy vintages as hideously high.

It sounds like Domaine des Lambreys really has got their act together, and I should keep an eye on them.

Drouhin (as a large producer) and Boillot (as a smaller producer) are two I've always admired. Good to hear they're keeping it up.

I think I know what you mean about the Groffier Gevrey. Had that sort of impression about some past vintages. Mother never need know about it. :wink:

Thanks,

-Paul W.
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Jacques Levy

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Re: TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by Jacques Levy » Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:40 am

Thanks Dale, I'm sorry I missed it, but I had not spent enough time with the family lately, so I went home and cooked dinner instead.

I usually as you know, am a big fan of Bachelet. I'll look for the Charmes.

I got some 2004 Leflaive Bourgogne last week from Post Wines liquidation sale, so I'll skip the Sauzet, though I was a big fan of their 2003 Bourgogne.

I also am a big fan of Clos des Mouches Blanc, I'll look for the 2005. And I'm always on the lookout for great Gevrey now that Rousseau's is priced north of $60.

See you soon.
Best Regards

Jacques
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David M. Bueker

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Re: TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:52 am

The pricing is indeed scary these days, but I just cannot lay off Burgundy. There's still value at the lower end and in the middle. When I consider the quality of wine I get fro ma top producer's basic Bourgogne (e.g. Chevillon, Mugneret-Gibourg) compared to what else is out there these days for $20-$25 I still want the Burgs. I do get concerned when I see wines like the Chevillon Chaignots priced in the mid-60s to upper-70s (depending on store) when $50 was expensive in prior vintages.

Stupid dollar.
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Dale Williams

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Re: TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by Dale Williams » Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:48 am

Jacques, very understandable, but I wish you had made it. Only people I knew were pourers (Mike J. was there pouring as well as PD and usual suspects). BTW, this was the village Puligny, not the Bourgogne. But it was $40, and I've bought it past at $25.

Looking at Zachys website, I think the Boillot was Poruzots

When comparing the Gevreys, an older woman next to me told the pourer that the Raphet was fine for new drinkers, but that sophisticated drinkers would prefer the Groffier. I've always been a bit of a rube, I prefer the Raphet!

I forgot the '05 Groffier Bonne Mares -BIG oaky wine, but confess to also liking it a bit

Overall the 2005s were quite tasty, but this is clearly a vintage to age. The tannins are big, but ripe, and there's plenty of fruit to balance. And not one wine struck me as really acid-deficient.

But man those prices. Drouhin Chambolle 1er was $75, I've generally paid in $40 range.
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Mark S

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Re: TNs without the notes- tonight's Burg tasting at Zachys

by Mark S » Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:03 am

Dale - tough to be living in a place where Zachy's is just down the road!
I miss the days when we had a local retailer here in Syracuse pour some exquisite bottles every few weeks: stuff like 1990 Bordeaux (Pichon Lalande's n' stuff), Cornas - Voge, Verset, etc...

Sounds like you're doing well!

Best,
Mark

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