The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

WTN: Some outstanding Italian estates (long)

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4925

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

WTN: Some outstanding Italian estates (long)

by Tim York » Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:05 am

There was an amazing choice of wines from top growers available for tasting here. Because I was moving on in the afternoon to a tasting where I would be looking principally at Shiraz, I limited myself quite severely to a limited selection of the unfamiliar alongside some favourites.

Once again the standard was very high. Although the reds were often powerful and modern in style there was a pleasing absence of caramelised after-tastes which were common here a few years ago. The Barolo was not quite as outstanding as those on show last year largely because the excellent 2001 vintage is finished.

Unusually for Belgium, this firm charges a tasting fee (EUR 15 offsetable against future purchases above a certain amount). This is acceptable in view of the possibility of tasting so many high end wines but some others still give that access without the fee.

On the other hand, as you can see below, the retail prices are quite discouraging. Still, I have found a source of good Verdicchio di Matelica and for this the price is affordable.



Cimarelli – Fonte della Luna – Marche

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2006 (EUR 7,20)
A sensation of some glue on the nose followed some generous fruit but quite coarse; 11/20.

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi “Fra Moriale” 2005 (EUR 11,98)
Much better than the previous with generous aromas of fine white fruit and a touch honey on fruity, generous and ingratiating palate with good and appealing balancing acid and mouth-fill; 15.5/20.



Bisci from Matelica – Marche

It was instructive to taste these alongside the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi because it highlighted the differences. These wines from Matelica are less tender and ingratiating but crisper and more mineral with an almost salty tang.

Verdicchio di Matelica 2004 (EUR 9,99)
A fine fleshy nose with a bracingly fresh crisp palate showing some mineral and salt notes; 14.5/20.

Verdicchio di Matelica “Fogliano” 2004 (EUR 13,55)
Slightly fuller, more subtle and complex than the previous in the same crisp, fresh vein with an attractively mineral and salty tang; 15.5/20.



Leonildo Pieropan from Soave presented by a family member.

Soave Classico “Calvarino” 2005 (EUR 15,25)
White fruit, citrus and mineral aromas with a touch of honey and quite marked but not astringent acidity on the palate with rhubarb, salt and attractive mineral notes; 15.5/20. From volcanic soil.

Soave Classico “La Rocca” 2005 (EUR 21,95)
Quite different from the previous with more fruity (some pineapple) less mineral aromas and a softer rounder palate with good acidity and mouth-fill; 16/20 with + potential in view of the next. From a clay soil.

Soave Classico “La Rocca” 2001 (EUR 21,28)
N: burnished richer and more complex. P: Much more open and complex aromatically than the previous with touches of apple pie, nuts and oil. Perhaps just some hints of coming oxidization but very expressive right now; 16/20 + and may have merited more a year or so ago.



Borgo di Colloredo from Campomarino, Molise.

Molise Falanghina 2005 (EUR 9,38)
An attractive wine with a fragrantly fruity nose and a nice fresh palate with pineapple notes; 14.5/20.

Montepulciano Molise 2004 (EUR 7,44)
Generous plum fruit with a slightly, not displeasing, bitter tang on the finish; 14.5/20.

Biferno Rosso 2001 – 70% Montepulciano, 30% Aglianico (EUR 11,50)
I thought this a much better blend than those with Merlot. Aglianico seems to add depth, leather and a touch of class to the good ripe Montepulciano fruit; 15.5/20.



Le Terrazze from Numana, Marche

Rosso Conero “Sassi Neri” 2003 (EUR 28,50)
The nose of this Montepulciano derived wine is still quite closed with some fruit cake peeping through. The palate is powerful, concentrated and tannic and not quite ready to drink. I will let by bottles rest. 15/20 now with ++ potential.

“Chaos” IGT – 50% Montepulciano, 25% Merlot, 25% Syrah (EUR 29,95)
The nose is quite closed with plum coming through and the palate is structured and powerful but softer and more accessible than the previous. More interesting and structured than a bottle, 2003 I think, tasted at the estate; 15.5/20.




Cantine del Notaio from Basilicata.

This range shows the class and solidity of Aglianico; “the Nebbiolo of the South” said the presenter; I replied “a country, not urban, gentleman” and she seemed to like that. This strikes me as a very good estate.

Aglianico del Vulture Rosato “Il Rogito” 2005 (EUR 13,98)
Very deep ruby for rosé, almost light red. And the same on the nose and palate. At first I was disconcerted by a boiled sweet nose but the richly fruity palate, original aromatics and noticeable structure won me over. A serious wine; 15.5/20.

Aglianico del Vulture “Il Repertorio” 2005 (EUR 17,55)
Aromas of dark fruit tar and leather and deep generous dark fruit, together with leather, clay and spice, structure and length; 16/20.

Aglianico del Vulture “La Firma” 2005 (EUR 29,52)
The fruit was slightly sweeter and more velvety than the previous and was allied to similar complexity, power, virility and structure with greater length; 16.5/20.




Montevetrano from near Salerno, Campania.

In view of the praise heaped onto this estate by certain suspects, I was expecting to find the wines overblown and spoofulated but I was immediately won over. The varietal make-up of the wine is about 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Aglianico.

Montevetrano Colli di Salerno 2003 (EUR 40,46 – special offer for 6)
Aromas were open and rich almost jammy but for leather hints and a touch of spice and these were allied to a long, structured and classically shaped palate; 17/20.

Montevetrano Colli di Salerno 2004 (EUR 53,95)
Similar but perhaps (even more) classy because less hints of jam and more classical; 17/20+.




Tenuta Le Querce – Basilicata

These wines seemed more international in style than those of Notaio, with more perfumed aromas, brighter fruit but less tar and animal notes and less robust vigour. There were quite pleasing notes on all these three wines which recall a sea breeze and which, for the want of a more precise descriptor, I call “iodine”. (NB: the vineyards are well inland.) The presenter, whose English and French were almost as weak as my Italian, was unable to help me.

Aglianico del Vulture “Il Viola” 2004 (EUR 12,28)
Good fruit but quite confected, ointment- like aromas with that touch of iodine; 14/20.

Aglianico del Vulture “Rosso di Constanze” 2003 (EUR 25,95)
Aromas also ointment-like and bright fruit quite marked by raspberry on a linear palate shape with the same iodine notes; 15/20.

Aglianico del Vulture “Vigna della Corona” 2003 (EUR 52,84)
This was deeper and more concentrated than the previous with a similarly linear palate shape but less pronounced iodine notes; 15.5/20.




Allegrini from Fumane (VR), Veneto presented by Ms Allegrini.

The plush style of, particularly, the high end wines of this region do not appeal to me as much of the more tangy wines from Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico but there is no denying the quality obtained by this estate in a modern vein.

Palazzo della Torre 2004 (EUR 15,97)
This Ripasso style wine showed some sharp tar in its aromas in addition to roundly attractive sweet fruit; 15.5/20.

La Grola 2004 (EUR 17,30)
Drier, more savoury and structured than the previous but with attractively rich aromas with orange hints and good acid balance; 15.5/20.

Amarone Classico della Valpolicella 2003 (EUR 54,99)
Rich sweet fruit aromas with a medical hints initially, becoming better integrated and more savoury on swirl. Deep velvety body with chocolate, rich black fruit and round plum; 16.5/20.

La Poja 2001 (EUR 54,16)
This wine made from late harvested over-ripe Corvina Veronese grapes showed a nose a bit like dry port. The palate was reminiscent of richly complex and concentrated fruit cake full of raisins, cherries and spice balanced by just what is necessary in terms of structural austerity and acidity; remarkable and 17.5/20, if you like this kind of thing, which my neighbour at the table clearly did not.



Castello di Ama from Gaiole in Chianti (SI)

Chianti Classico Castello di Ama 2004 (EUR 24,99)
Both the aromas and body of the wine were softer and rounder than I was expecting but the nice Chianti tang was there. Track record indicates that this wine should develop well; 15.5/20 now.



Fattoria Le Pupille from Grosseto presented by Elisabetta Gepetti.

Morellino di Scansano 2005 (EUR 9,99)
The aromas were a bit confected and palate was fresh and amiable but less tang than I remember last year (probably 04); 14/20.

Morellino di Scansano Poggio Valente 2004 (EUR 27,35)
A lot more depth and character than the previous with real Sangiovese tang; 16/20.

Saffredi 2004 (EUR 59,97)
I now better understand the general esteem for this Bordeaux blend plus 15% Alicante. I did not care for the overblown and confected 2003 but apart from a touch of ointment on the nose, this 2004 surrounded its fine deep fruit and generous body with classically shaped and balanced structure; 16.5/20.



Castello di Fonterutoli from Castellina in Chianti (SI).

Chianti Classico 2005 (EUR 16,35)
This Chianti, containing 10% Merlot, showed fruity aromas with orange touches and an amiably fruity but somewhat soft-centred body. Perhaps this is characteristic of 2005; 14.5/20.

Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli 2004 (EUR 36,99)
This wine contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and tends to be decried by the purists for that reason. It was a completely different proposition from the previous. The nose is somewhat closed but weight and complexity can be sensed. The palate also showed closed aromas but there is substance, length and Chianti tang; 15.5/20 now but wait and it may become 17/20+.

Siepi 2004 (EUR 64,97)
I did not like the 2003 version of this 50/50 Sangiovese/Merlot blend, which I found overblown. This 2004 was less exaggerated with some attractively soft and full round fruit and some structure but there were still some candied and toffee notes. For those who find Sangiovese too uncompromising and in need of softening (dumbing down?); 15/20.



Elio Altare from La Morra, Langhe presented by Elio Altare.

It is a privilege to meet a wine-grower of the calibre of Elio Altare together with his wines. His passion for his trade, quality orientated philosophy, intelligence and wit all shine through in fluent, terroir accented French. The house style is undoubtedly more modern and fruit driven than that of, say, Aldo Conterno, but the quality is remarkable.

Dolcetto d’Alba 2006 (EUR 13,98)
Much richer fruit than most Dolcetto with slightly candied note but with the necessary freshness; 15.5/20.

Barbera d’Alba 2006 (EUR 16,94)
Also rich fruit but brighter and more mineral with leather hints and some structure; 16/20.

Barolo La Morra 2003 (EUR 54,99)
The Barolo class shines through with tar hints on the nose. The palate shows riper fruit than usual with young Barolo and perhaps less distinguished austerity and mineral notes than in other vintages but the whole is velvety, complex, seamless and integrated; 16.5/20.

L’Insieme 2004 (EUR 44,95)
This VDT is made from 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Barbera, 20% Nebbiolo, 10% Dolcetto, 5% Syrah, 5% Pe(?). The nose is attractively fleshy with tobacco hints and the palate is attractively fruity and quite complex. Altare said enigmatically “this is wine which pleases me but I don’t like it”; he explained that it was a nice wine but without terroir expression. I too prefer the more characterful Barolo but this is good; 16/20.



La Spinetta from near Alba, Langhe.

Raspberry notes seem quite a constant in the wines from Nebbiolo here. Does this come from terroir, yeasts or wine-making techniques?

Monferrato Rosso Pin 2003 (EUR 34,26) – 65% Nebbiolo, 35% Barbera.
A very attractive wine displaying red fruit, raspberry, aromas and some tar with good acid and bdy; 16/20.

Barbera d’Alba Ca’ di Pian 2005 (EUR 17,55)
Attractively fresh, rich and long; 15.5/20.

Barbera d’Alba Vigna Gallina 2005 (EUR 34,97)
Deeper, more complex and intense than the previous with liquorice and orange notes but I can’t say that I liked it any better; 15.5/20.

Barbaresco 2002 (EUR 54,15)
This product of a poor vintage was delicious last year and the nose still shows the same raspberry and violet notes. However on the palate it does seem to be drying out and the tannins more present.
Still good to drink but hurry; 15.5/20.

Barbaresco Valeirano 2004 (EUR 79,98)
This hit the jackpot and promises to be a worthy successor to the superb 2001 (V.Starderi, I think) which I tasted last year. Again lovely raspberry dominated aromas on an ample, generous yet elegant palate with good structure and without the sharp angles which are emerging on the 2002; 17/20 with + potential.



Armando Parusso from Monforte d’Alba, Langhe.

I thought this range less impressive than last year largely due, I guess, to the change in vintages.

Nebbiolo d’Alba 2005 (EUR 15,98)
Soft and supple; 14/20.

Barolo Marindino 2003 (EUR 39,93)
The nose was a bit closed with orange and spice touches. The palate was soft, velvety, rounded and surprisingly sweet for Barolo and a bit short of grip. For drinking now; 15/20.

Barolo Bussia 2003 (EUR 59,90)
Quite similar in style but showing more complexity and grip; 15.5/20 and possibly some potential.

Barolo Riserva “Argento” 2000 (EUR 49,97)
Again there were orange touches to the aromas and the colour and body were quite light but the flavours and profile were elegant and long. Ready to drink; 16/20.



Domenico Clerico from Monforte d’Alba, Langhe

Barolo Pajana 2003 (EUR 59,90)
This showed much more personality than the 2003s from Parusso. More depth and complexity, fruit cake with tar notes and good structure and length; 17/20.



I would have liked to sample more of the riches in the tasting room but there was a Shiraz mountain to climb in the afternoon so I left on this high note.



Tim York
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10773

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: WTN: Some outstanding Italian estates (long)

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Oct 23, 2007 3:27 pm

That is a pretty good list there Tim. Without looking up my notes etc, feel some of these wines readily available here in AB. Will check asap.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot, Amazonbot, ClaudeBot, SemrushBot and 0 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign