Burgundy
As further riposte against “vintages don’t matter anymore”, let me give some generalised impressions of recent red burgundian vintages based on my notes below and on previous experience.
2000 Wines which have shown a lot of precocious charm but, on the basis of this tasting, seem now to be showing a lot of evolution, e.g. orange peel notes.
2001 Wines with pure fruit, good acidity and focus.
2002 Well balanced wines with good fruit, body and acidity as well as generosity.
2003 At best rich and velvety but not very burgundian and at worst cooked, candied and sugary.
2004 Attractively fresh but somewhat lean wines.
2005 Based on a very small sample, well balanced wines with backbone needing time.
It is true that there are many enjoyable wines from all six years but their characters are very different.
And now for some notes –
Domaine Jean-Marc et Hugues Pavelot
PERNAND-VERGELESSES 1er cru Les Vergelesses 2002 (EUR 21,05) showed attractive pure red and dark fruit aromas including cherry on a well balanced palate – 16/20- whilst the P-V Les Vergelesses 2000 (EUR 16 so) was showing some evolutive orange notes on a lighter palate; 15/20.
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 2004 (EUR 16,34) was attractively fresh with some tannins; 15/20. SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 1er cru Aux Gravains 2005 (EUR 25,26) is a much more complex wine with backbone and some ivy and marmalade notes; needs time but potentially 16.5/20.
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 1er cru La Dominode 2003 (EUR 24,50) was velvety and round with caramel notes -15/20- and SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE 1er cru La Dominode 2000 (EUR 17 so) was round, soft and easy going; 15.5/20.
The best tasting wine here at present was BEAUNE 1er cru Les Bressandes 2002 (EUR 19 so); subtle aromas combined good balance, structure and length; good ageing potential but already 16.5/20.
Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley
This was the only red burgundian table where the growers had stayed through to Monday. I think that this increased my enjoyment of their range. All the wines here are VOLNAY.
CLOS de la CAVE 2003 (EUR 26,68) was suave, attractive and quite long; 15.5/20. 1er cru CARELLES 2004 (EUR 27 so) was caressing with citrus, particularly grapefruit, aromas on entry and mid-palate with a smoky bitter note on the finish- 15.5/20- whilst 1er cru CARELLES 2005 (EUR 38,30) showed much more stature; although quite closed its refinement could be sensed within a classical structure with still marked tannins and good length; 16/20. Though even tighter and more closed, 1er cru CLOS des CHENES 2005 (EUR 38,72) showed greater depth and length; 16.5/20.
Domaine Robert Chevillon
All the wines here except the first are NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES.
I don’t know whether BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR Vieilles Vignes 2005 (EUR 15,88) is the same cuvee about which David Bueker wrote enthusiastically but it is very good; round, subtle, rich fruit with some attractive minerality; 15.5/20.
1er cru LES CHAIGNOTS 2001 (EUR 35,39) was showing well developed and focussed dark fruit, especially cherry, aromas, good body and length; 16.5/20. I liked less 1er cru LES CHAIGNOTS 2000 (EUR 25 so); soft, rich fruit with orange peel notes betraying evolution; drink up 15/20.
1er cru LES VAUCRAINS 2001 (EUR 43,48) was more closed but also deeper than Les Chaignots with some marmalade and liqueur notes coming up on swirl; 16.5/20. 1er cru LES PRULIERS 2000 (EUR 25 so) was the most evolved and orange-peely of the lot although still pleasant; 14.5/20.
Domaine J.J. Confuron
The pours were very parsimonious at this table and the salesman presenting the wines not very knowledgeable; both hindered my appreciation.
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1er cru Les Fleurières 2005 (EUR 31,17) and 2002 (EUR 25 so) were both rich, structured and long as well as quite closed; 16/20. CLOS VOUGEOT 2001 (EUR 50 so) was also closed, showed impressive matter but no noticeable step-up compared with the previous; 16/20. Nor did ROMANEE SAINT-VIVANT 1998 (EUR 85 so) impress equally to its reputation and price; 15.5/20.
Domaine de la Chapelle
This estate is new to me and I liked both the owner, Pascal Rollet, and the wines.
MACON SOLUTRE 2006 (EUR 8,50) is mineral and fresh; 14.5/20. POUILLY-FUISSE Les Grands Climats 2006 (EUR 14,50) is floral as well as mineral and shows more depth and length; 16/20. POUILLY-FUISSE Vieilles Vignes (EUR 17,67) was perhaps my favourite here; it was more open and added “gras” and depth to the qualities of the previous; 16.5/20. POUILLY-FUISSE Clos de la Chapelle 2005 saw more new wood and was subject to “bâtonnage sans ouvrir les tonneaux” (I think = lees stirring in closed barrels); it is undeniably richer and more complex but I am not sure about a slightly confected pineapple note; it may need more time; 16.5/20?
Alsace
Maison Hugel & Fils from Riquewihr
What a difference an enthusiastic and articulate communicator, like Lionel Rousseaux, can make! He guided me through this extensive range and then insisted that I should try the wines from Quincy at the next table before I left (see below).
I pick out the following.
RIESLING 2004 (EUR 12,27) was attractively mineral; 14.5/20. RIESLING Jubilée 2003 (EUR 23,30) was big and rich with touches of petrol -15/20 - but RIESLING Jubilée 2002 (EUR 25,59) was much more to my taste with racy acidity and minerality balancing a touch of residual sugar; 16.5/20. Rousseaux regretted not having brought any Riesling VT and SGN in view of the interest being shown here in this noble grape variety. So did I!
TOKAY PINOT GRIS Jubilée 2000 (EUR 16,50 so) was rich, complex and slightly candied; 15/20. TOKAY PINOT GRIS Hommage à Jean Hugel 1998 (EUR 34,15) was of much greater stature showing great richness and complexity but no suspicion of cloying; 16.5/20.
GEWURZTRAMINER 2003 (EUR 12,50) was spicy and a bit cloying; 14/20. GEWURZTRAMINER Vendanges Tardives 2001 (EUR 45,48) exploded with rich lychee laced with ginger; 16.5/20. However the rich depth of GEWURZTRAMINER Sélection des Grains Nobles 1989 (EUR 78,58) did not escape being cloying – 16/20 – and I much preferred GEWURZTRAMINER SGN 1998 (EUR 67,98) which showed much greater finesse being better balanced by acidity; 17.5/20.
Loire
Domaine Lecomte at Quincy
This is another new grower for me. On the evidence of his 2006, Lecomte, like the Cotats and Mellot in Sancerre and a handful or so of others in Pouilly-sur-Loire, Menetou-Salon and Reully, is participating in the transformation of the image of wine made in the French Centre from Sauvignon blanc.
QUINCY 2005 (EUR 7) is deliciously fresh and mineral - 15/20 – but the 2006 (EUR 7,99) shows an added dimension of roundness, depth and complex aromas of citrus and exotic fruit as well as the more usual gooseberry; 16.5/20.