WTN: Abbazia Di Novacella Veltliner Alto Adige 2006

Upon popping the plasticork, it was most apparent that I was in for a treat. This is a completely different style than I'm used to from Austria. It is insanely perfumed with sweet floral notes and lime-aide. Very pure and crystalline flavors of key-lime, snow pea and starfruit with a little honeydew melon thang going on. The acidity is sharp and witty. There is a Kerner-like fruitiness to the wine, but the flavors aren't as one-dimensional (sorry Kerner fans). I like it, but it isn't as regal or classy as the Austrian version. 13,5% alc. $30

Note that Alto Adige Veltliner is *not* Grüner Veltliner, but Frühroter Veltliner (aka Malvasier in Austria) which genetically has little to do with Grüner Veltliner.

Ferdinand Regner from Klosterneuburg viticultural school in 1999 found out via genetical fingerprint method that Frühroter Veltliner, in fact, is a Silvaner x Roter Veltliner crossing. Incidentally the other known Veltliner varieties (Brauner V., Weißer V., Silberweißer V.) share genetic similarities with Roter Veltliner, while Grüner Veltliner has little genetical characteristics of the Veltliner group.

One Grüner Veltliner parent has been identified (Traminer), the other not yet (at least not yet officially).

Michael,

That would certainly explain the completely different taste profile. Do you know if anyone in the Alto Adige grows true Gruener Veltliner?

Bill, to the best of my knowledge, there is only a small handfull of Veltliner producers in Alto Adige. None, afaik, grows Grüner Veltliner.

But, otoh, so much is changing so fast in Alto Adige, that I wouldn't be surprised at all to see a Grüner Veltiner emerging.

My understanding is that the label 'Veltliner' in the Eisacktaler (the little valley in the NE of the winegrowing area of the Alto Adige, on the road to Austria) can be either Grüner or Frühroter Veltliner, or a blend of the two. If I remember correctly my producer's example (Garlider) is Grüner, but I'll ask him. It doesn't show either of the aromas I think of as classic for Grüner, white pepper or grapefruit, though...

Unfortunately I have not yet found the text of the official DOC/DOCG decrees on the web. This http://snipurl.com/1u5yl seems to offer a good overlook however. If you scroll down to Alto Adige/Valle Isarco Veltiner, the info, however says: "Minimum 85% Veltliner, maximum 15% other varieties" without specifying what "Veltliner" exactly is. So Grüner Veltliner would certainly be permitted — but I have not yet encountered or heard about one.

But then I am in no way a specialist of Alto Adige wines. They have a strong following in Western Austria — of course because of historical reasons, since "wine" in Tyrol and Vorarlberg has always meant Südtirol wine —, while they have always been a quantité more than négligeable in the East of the country where wine was grown locally.

Thank you for the information Gentlemen.

Michael,

I just called Christian Kerschbaumer at Garlider, and he said that most of the Veltilner in the Eisackthaler is now Grüner, but twenty years ago it was almost all Frühroter; as vines have been replanted he says everyone has gone over to Grüner.

They make wonderful Sylvaner in this area, too, worth searching out. (I know that sounds unlikely.)

Thank you very much, Oliver — this is what I'd call a perfect service!