Eric Asimov on the unspeakable delights of Zweigelt

I just know that like-minded lovers of Central European wines will really enjoy this fine article. Here's a brief intro:

The Unspeakable Delights of Zweigelt
By ERIC ASIMOV
Published: June 13, 2007

A GRAPE and a wine that go by the name zweigelt have immediate obstacles to overcome on the path toward popularity. First and foremost is the fact that the American wine-drinking public is attracted to melodious wine terminology drawn from the romance languages. Chardonnay and merlot and Chianti and Rioja flow beautifully from the tongue, with connotations of captivating pleasures. Germanic words like zweigelt, blaufränkisch and, yes, rotwein, do not.

That has been true for years, but you know what? It’s time to get over it. The pure pleasures available by being open to some of the less familiar Germanic wines are now too great to allow a little matter like language to stand in the way.

[...]

It is no exaggeration to say that we were greatly excited by the zweigelts. They had a freshness and grace that marked them as wines that would go beautifully with a wide range of foods. What’s more, they had an exotic spice and floral character, predominantly aromas of cinnamon and violets, that made them distinctive and unusual.

I will add that this whole obsession with Germanic varietal names, this manufactured fear of them, has been a pet peeve of mine for ages. If Grüner Veltliner is gaining popularity as it rightly ought to, then I see no reason why Austria's red natives shouldn't be afforded the same respectful inquiry.

Link to the entire article

I will add that this whole obsession with Germanic varietal names, this manufactured fear of them, has been a pet peeve of mine for ages. If Grüner Veltliner is gaining popularity as it rightly ought to, then I see no reason why Austria's red natives shouldn't be afforded the same respectful inquiry

I don't think it's got anything to do with a "manufactured fear" of German varietal names for red wines. Consider that riesling, and even gruner veltiner, are quite popular.

I think it's more that, for the most part, German and Austrian red wines taste like crap, compared to what regions further west or east or south in Europe can produce from the same varieites.

The gods have given central Europe a prime region for the production of aromatic white wine varieties. Please, guys--do what your climate has gifted you to excel in. Don't throw away your gifted land trying to be what you're not fated to be.

-Paul W.

St Laurent doesn' "taste like crap"

Although I was being somewhat melodramatic in my choice of words, admittedly, I do think that Asimov is right when he writes that North Americans have a preference for wine names that sound like something from a Romance language. That preference is just silly in my view, when what should count is the wine and its origin, not the difficulty of its name, which isn't all that hard if one transliterates the word and practices a bit. Then again I am no canny marketer, nor do I aspire to be one.

That said, where I disagree is that Central European reds are somehow worse than French, Italian or Iberian reds. They're usually lighter-bodied, but every bit as food-friendly as a Loire Cab Franc or Beaujolais. I've had some amazingly tasty and cheap Hungarian reds that were gulpable and in no way forced (i.e. affected by too much "makeup" à la Mondovino).

That said, where I disagree is that Central European reds are somehow worse than French, Italian or Iberian reds. They're usually lighter-bodied, but every bit as food-friendly as a Loire Cab Franc or Beaujolais. I've had some amazingly tasty and cheap Hungarian reds that were gulpable and in no way forced (i.e. affected by too much "makeup" à la Mondovino).

I was recently surprised by a 1999 kekfrankos (accompanying paprikas csirka) at a friends' house in budapest. again no name, it was a social occasion so i took no notes. but i had no idea that kekfrankos could

1. be so tasty.
2. age so well.

very food friendly of course, but also not without complexity, still fruity but having gained some complexity from age.

prejudice be damned.

I think it's more that, for the most part, German and Austrian red wines taste like crap, compared to what regions further west or east or south in Europe can produce from the same varieites.

WHAT!?! Seriously Paul, The producers in Austria (especially in Burgenland) have finally gotten their acts together for red wine. Which wines haven't you liked?