WTN: A superb Burgundy + a couple spoofs

• 1995 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (1/7/2008)
  A light colour (as seems typical for Montille). A gorgeous nose: elegant, red toned, lingonberried. It shows some aged characteristics (rye bread, earth/sous bois) but is still vibrant. The palate is light but very intense, paradoxically strong yet soft tannins, bright acidity. Long, bright, refreshing, mineral aftertaste. The wine seems just perfect for my tastes. Heartbreakingly beautiful. Singing now, should keep.
• *2004 Bodegas y Viñedos Ébano Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1/7/2008)
  14,5%. A very dark colour. Very dark toned fruit, with tons of oak, liquorous/alcoholic, but gladly it has some citrussy/refreshing scents also. Extracted, sweetly fruity, alcoholic, oaky, but with attractively strong tannins, but the whole is rather clunky and exhausting to drink. I do find this spoofy despite some redeeming features. Well made but not really my style.
  
  I was a bit dismayed at the showing because this is a new project (first vintage was 2001 IIRC) of *Adegas Valmiñor who make a very good Albariño and also Davila (a blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Treixadura) which I adore almost every year. Whereas the Valmiñors are ripe and mineral and refreshing, the Ébano just seems spoofy and anonymously international. What a shame.
• *2004 Finca y Bodega Carlos Pulenta Cabernet Sauvignon Tomero - Argentina, Mendoza (1/7/2008)
  Sweet and oaky nose, jammy. Rather substanceless, but superficially attractive in its oaky sweetness. I can't find much trace of the grape. I didn't enjoy it.

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