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WTN: 78 Haut-Brion+78 Mission+90 Cerbaiona+03 QS etc.

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Martin Barz

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WTN: 78 Haut-Brion+78 Mission+90 Cerbaiona+03 QS etc.

by Martin Barz » Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:30 am

Last week, we had the pleasure to welcome Rainer Guntermann in Berlin for an offline. What a memorable night...........


Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta Brut Satèn, Lombardia, Italy
Based on 100% Chardonnay. Here we have a TOP-Spumante. Impressive freshness, elegance and minerality on the palate. Crisp texture and combined with a good intensity. Perfect start.........


2006 Keller, "Kirchspiel" GG, Rheinhessen, Germany
For me one of the best dry Riesling besides "Halenberg" GG from Emrich-Schönleber and "Hermannshöhle" GG from Dönnhoff in the difficult vintage 2006 . Kirchspiel stands for mineral elegance, purity and finesse.


1990 Cerbaiona, Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
“Except for Gianfranco Soldera, no one in Montalcino has made better wines than Diego Molinari over the past 15 years”, D. Thomases

The estate was established with the 1981 vintage by former pilot Diego Molinari. Daniel Thomases the former senior critic of Robert Parker´s Wine Advocate rates Cerbaiona as close to Case Basse di Soldera, the most expensive and sought after Brunello on the market. Yes, Cerbaiona comes close, as I tasted a magnificent 1983 Case Basse a few months ago in Copenhagen.
“Holy shit this wine was good”, here we have a hedonistic Brunello with massive sweet ripe fruit........raspberry, strawberry and spicy layers of licorice. The mouthfeeling of this perfectly matured Brunello is simply stunning and magic. Unbelievable concentrated, pure fruit flavors combined with a never-ending length. In the last couple of years the Brunellos were a little bit out of fashion, but Cerbaiona and Case Basse di Soldera prove that a Brunello is competitive with the best wines in the world.


1994 Giuseppe Quintarelli, Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto, Italy
The wine was nice too drink, but a bit weak on complexity and character for that high price.


2003 Quinta Sardonia, “QS”, Sardon del Duero, Spain
Surprisingly a totally different wine in comparison with a bottle a few weeks ago. Now, we have the typical young spanish fruit bomb with a lot of oak and a bit too flamboyant. Why such a difference? Interestingly, the bottle a few weeks ago which was so terrific, was not stored properly. This means, the bottle was lying 1 year in the kitchen, as a result the wine matured faster. Here is my TN from a few weeks ago:
Here we have a new project by co-owner Peter Sissek and J. Bougnaud. The vines of this wine, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit verdot, Malbec, Cabernet franc, were planted in 1999 and will be cultivated by using biodynamic principles. This wine was served blind and after the first sip I was totally shure it is a Bordeaux/Right Bank. Such a sexy juice normally only belongs to TOP wines from St. Emilion or Pomerol.
Black fruits, cigar-box, spice, black chocolate and perfectly integrated elegant tannins + oak. What a silky texture! Also not too opulent or too alcoholic based on the hot vintage, also not one-dimensional due to the young vines. Simply exciting structure and finesse. Perfectly to drink right now, as this wine won´t get any better. Kudos to Peter Sissek for this magic wine.


1978 Ch. Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France
Ch. Haut-Brion is the oldest of the four Premier Grand Crus, the wine was already mentioned by the writer Samuel Pepys in 1663. Since 1935 the winery is owned by an american banker family and now under the leadership of Jean-Philippe Delmas.The wine is based on about 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.
Perfectly matured Bordeaux. Lovely elegance and harmony.........cedar, tobacco, leather and a subtle fruit. Fine and delicate on the palate. No sign of tiredness or cadaverous.


1978 Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France
Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion is like Haut-Brion in the property of the american family Dillon. According to wineterminator the vintage 1978 was very difficult, “cold spring with late blossom. A too rainy summer but then the wonder a perfect warm september wich saved the harvest. But not for all, as many winemaker harvested too early, as a result many lean wines with green tannins.”
Unbelievable young and fresh performance for a wine with 30 years age. In addition an almost explosive fruit with plum, tea leaves, yogurt and floral notes. Unctuously textured and fascinating wine which reminds me a little bit on the 93 Ausone a few months ago. A wine which shows hedonistic and intellectual appeal and no wonder that this wine has such a good reputation by wine-experts. Also proves impressively the reputation of a long-aging potential and brilliant performance in difficult vintages. Last but not least, the wine received 95pts. from Mr. Parker.


1997 Ch. Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes, France
LECKER


Vielen Dank Rainer for these terrific Bordeaux wines. Auch mein besonderer Dank an Fedor for the outstanding Cerbaiona and for the food.
http://berlinkitchen.com
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Saina

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Re: WTN: 78 Haut-Brion+78 Mission+90 Cerbaiona+03 QS etc.

by Saina » Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:22 pm

Martin Barz wrote:1978 Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France
According to wineterminator the vintage 1978 was very difficult, “cold spring with late blossom. A too rainy summer but then the wonder a perfect warm september wich saved the harvest. But not for all, as many winemaker harvested too early, as a result many lean wines with green tannins.”
[...]
Unbelievable young and fresh performance for a wine with 30 years age.


I was recently given a blind taste of the 1988 LMHB and I guessed that the wine was from this millenium. :oops: So I fully understand why you thought it was unbelievably young.

I have very much liked the few '78s I've had and had no idea it was considered very difficult. I knew that it doesn't get much praise from the pointy people, but am happy to see many very positive notes on them. It seems a classically styled vintage yet still is fairly priced for a fully mature vintage.

-O
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.
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Andy

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Re: WTN: 78 Haut-Brion+78 Mission+90 Cerbaiona+03 QS etc.

by Andy » Wed Mar 05, 2008 4:23 pm

I have had a share of '90 Brunelli that are drinking well, have yet to taste the Cerbaiona. 1990 might not be a well example because many wines have been showing well all the way, but for instance in '88 many (e.g. Caparzo La Casa, Lisini, Mastrojanni, Argiano) have appeared quite austere and needed a long time to open up. Nowadays it seems there are very few made in this style, so longevity may be questioned. On the other hand, more and more are vinifying very oxidative a la Gambelli so there is hope for the future.
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