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François Audouze

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120 wines of Jura – introduction - the Côtes du Jura reds – a 1947 !!

by François Audouze » Sun Jun 04, 2006 6:51 am

Tasting of 120 wines du Jura – introduction - the Côtes du Jura reds – a unique 1947
The tasting has been held by the restaurant of the hotel Castan in Besançon, due to Christophe Menozzi, the president of the association of sommelier of East of France, and due to family Bourdy who opened their cellar for a unique tasting of 120 different wines up to 1888. The three of them, father born in 1928 and two sons aged near fifty told us that they make this event once, but do not intend to do it again in this century.
They wanted that the press would be aware of the interest of the historical potential of these wines. Their cellar is unique (Marc Breitenmoser has visited it with me). The property belongs to their family since 1400 something. It was a unique occasion to learn the history of these wines, that I have the chance to have explored more than many amateurs.
A prestigious sommelier, Olivier Poussier, best World Sommelier in 2000 will make a report in RVF la Revue de Vin de France. Some big buyers like Four Seasons Le Cinq (who made a huge command some days later), some people being in the world of Jura wines, and two big collectors, a Swiss and me.
We tasted wines for two joyful days, on the 9 and 10 May 2006. The great question was to decide how to split the wines in two days. To maintain our interest, each group was split in two equal parts. The youngest on day 1 and the oldest on day 2. We had to be good students on day 1, to have the privilege to drink the best on day 2. One of us had an early train. What a loss : he lost the best.
On my notes, the figures preceding the name of a wine are : day one or day two, and the position of the wine in the order of tasting, from 1 to 120. As we have tasted 19 reds on day one, it goes from 1 – 1 to 1 – 19. And as we began the second day with reds, if began from 2 – 64 to 2 – 79.
As I had to taste 120 wines, I decided to make direct comments, with no diplomacy. If I like, I say I like. If I do not like, I say I do not like. My comments do not describe, but give my impressions.
I have made three different subjects : the reds, the Côtes du Jura white, then the Vin Jaune and Chateau Chalon.
I say it in advance : during this tasting, I have “met” wines which largely deserve 100 Parker points.
If it is one of the conclusions of this tasting, it is a very important one.

1 - 1 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 2001 - «aspect» : a little troubled, slightly, red slightly brown - «nose» : very discrete, alcohol, pepper, prune - «taste» : direct, simple, nice length - «comment» : wine for dinner, rather nice, well, regional - «combinations» : fish with cream
1 - 2 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1998 - «aspect» : red already ruby, more clear - «nose» : nose more austere, more peach - «taste» : rather round, more joyful, peach with wine, has little raspberry. Lacks of some broadness - «comment» : a little dull - «combinations» : veal
1 - 3 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1997 - «aspect» : ruby affirmed, nice colour clear, nice - «nose» : more expressive, a little animal - «taste» : has slightly evolved, animal, very expressive, final a little bitter - «comment» : wine for lunch. I like this aspect very virile - «combinations» : côte de bœuf
1 - 4 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1994 - «aspect» : very clear. Already orange !! - «nose» : nose of old wine - «taste» : alcohol appears strongly. The wine has lost of its fruit. Evolved - «comment» : astonishing that it has already this effect of age - «combinations» : sweetbread
1 - 5 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1993 - «aspect» : red sustained slightly orange, nice ruby - «nose» : very strong, very nice, very representative - «taste» : already evolved, but it seems to me that it is the precise definition of Côtes du Jura. Dry grape. Nice length - «comment» : very nice wine - «combinations» : game with feathers
1 - 6 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1992 - «aspect» : clear, red of ruby pale, nice light - «nose» : corked (slightly) - «taste» : the cork has its influence. Wine heavy with meat. Very warm, very powerful - «comment» : what a shame ! - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 7 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1990 - «aspect» : clear, red intense but has a little tiled colour - «nose» : very nice nose intense. Nice. Very elegant - «taste» : combines airiness and complexity. Very balanced. Final harsh, griotte (black sherry) - «comment» : magnificent - «combinations» : asparagus and truffles
1 - 8 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1988 - «aspect» : already a little tiled - «nose» : cork - «taste» : influenced by the cork - «comment» : horrible - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 9 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1987 - «aspect» : ruby evolved. Nice colour - «nose» : discrete but expressive. Elégant - «taste» : I like this aspect evolved light. It pleases me. Very long in mouth - «comment» : very pleasant - «combinations» : red meat.
1 - 10 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1986 - «aspect» : ruby ambered, nice evolution - «nose» : a wine a little advanced, warm. Slightly animal - «taste» : alcohol, powerful invading. Sun. It’s not really in the definition of Côtes du Jura - «comment» : pleases me less - «combinations» : bécasse au chou
1 - 11 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1985 - «aspect» : a little pale - «nose» : a little alcoholic, limited - «taste» : already very old, very evolved. Rather limited. Is saved by the final - «comment» : not very brillant - «combinations» : jarret de porc
1 - 12 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1983 - «aspect» : red sustained, nice colour - «nose» : very expressive, magnificent, very elegant. Bravo - «taste» : joyful. A little tired, but nice fruit. Globally very agreeable. - «comment» : Well - «combinations» : duck with sherrys
1 - 13 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1982 - «aspect» : nice colour. Slightly yellow - «nose» : a little animal - «taste» : the aspect animal disturbs. Evolved, limited. Alcohol. Final disagreeable - «comment» : not well - «combinations» : nothing
1 - 14 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1981 - «aspect» : nice colour, ruby yellow - «nose» : slightly evolved. Rather charming. Peach, mirabelle - «taste» : more evolved, but it is rather balanced. Small disturbance with this aspect animal noticeable on several millésimes - «comment» : wine interesting overall. I prefer it largely to the 1982 - «combinations» : lamb’s shoulder
1 - 15 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1979 - «aspect» : red a little tiled, ambered - «nose» : discrete. One feels the evolution - «taste» : it pleases me much. It is obviously a little limited, but it is so much integrated. Elegant in its limited structure. Strawberry - «comment» : it pleases me - «combinations» : foie gras poêlé, sweetbread
1 - 16 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1978 - «aspect» : very ambered, tiled - «nose» : very evolved, animal, tired, rancio, chocolate - «taste» : medicinal, meat - «combinations» : grilled skonk with Clacquesin
1 - 17 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1976 - «aspect» : pale but nice - «nose» : nice - «taste» : evolved, but it is nice. I like this aspect simplified, but expressive. Final in elegance and beauty - «combinations» : Olivier Poussier says poêlée de cèpes. I think of pied de porc
1 - 18 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1969 - «aspect» : colour of light Port wine - «nose» : very spicy, dense, nose interesting - «taste» : watery attack, seems rather not very integrated. Final not very agreeable, animal meaty - «comment» : not very agreeable - «combinations» : palourdes
1 - 19 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1967 - «aspect» : nice colour a little ambered - «nose» : strong agreeable - «taste» : agreeable, even if age is noticeable. Well structured, well integrated. Final very convenient, even if alcoholic and spicy - «comment» : agreeable, interesting - «combinations» : escalope panée, champignon, truffle
On the second day :
2 - 64 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1966 - «aspect» : very nice, a little red tea - «nose» : a little bitter, but pure - «taste» : attack very agreeable (after the breakfast !). Lack of consistance, short - «comment» : agreeable without more to say - «combinations» : red meat
2 - 65 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1964 - «aspect» : nice, sherry - «nose» : alcohol dominates, fruits in compote - «taste» : very agreeable taste of fruits with syrup, lack a little of body - «comment» : it is not what I am looking for
2 - 66 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1959 - «aspect» : very nice, much more red - «nose» : nice, expressive, largely more than the two preceeding ones - «taste» : wine much more expressive and long. Sherry in alcohol. Not very much of consistance anyway - «comment» : strongly agreeable
2 - 67 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1957 - «aspect» : ambered, slightly tiled - «nose» : animal - «taste» : bitter, then opens itself
2 - 68 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1956 - «aspect» : rather nice, yellow sherry - «nose» : animal - «taste» : more agreeable, drinkable - «comment» : not passionating anyway
2 - 69 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : red, endly ! - «nose» : animal anyway, to oxygenate - «taste» : the aspect animal, soap disturbs me too much - «comment» : it is the 1955 normal with three varieries
2 - 70 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1955 - «aspect» : tea clear - «nose» : very agreeable - «taste» : this is wine! Agreeable, even if very light. Nice persistance, it is the taste du Jura, even if it is not very usual - «comment» : it is the pinot noir alone - this wine is largely better than the other 1955. Concluding try of a pure Pinot noir on the land of Arlay
2 - 71 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1953 - «aspect» : very nice, dense - «nose» : animal (not enough oxygene). Then it opens - «taste» : one feels that it is a great wine
2 - 72 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1952 - «aspect» : more clear, more pale - «nose» : light, sherry yellow - «taste» : not disagreeable. I like. Rather pleasant. Rather advanced, rather dried, but agreeable to drink - «comment» : balanced, very agreeable, good surprise
2 - 73 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1949 - «aspect» : is a little “passé” - «nose» : light cork - «taste» : fruits in compote - «comment» : no interest with this bottle
2 - 74 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1947 - «aspect» : nice colour, red grenat - «nose» : superbe, nose of a great wine, expressive - «taste» : this is good ! It is a wine ! - «comment» : top ! it had 14,2° by bottling ! I ranked it first of the reds. It is truly an immense red (I have put one in one of my dinners some weeks before. It was splendid and appreciated by the whole table) - «combinations» : gratin de pâtes et de champignons (probably said by Olivier Poussier)
2 - 75 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1945 - «aspect» : red nice golden - «nose» : slightly animal - «taste» : very agreeable, very round, very integrated. The 1947 is more noble. This one is very agreeable. Cool - «comment» : well. Less gastronomic
2 - 76 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1943 - «aspect» : magic - «nose» : has a little evolved - «taste» : very great. Good. Balanced, expressive, better than the 1945 - «comment» : very good, better than the 1945 (M. Bourdy father shares my opinion). I ranked it second of the reds
2 - 77 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1942 - «aspect» : nice colour - «nose» : alcohol - «taste» : it helds very well. Surprising. It is very good, subtle - «comment» : very very good I ranked it third of the reds. The decade 1940 is largely better than the decade 50. The 47, 43 and 42 are exceptional
2 - 78 - Côtes du Jura red, Bourdy - 1926 - «aspect» : incredible ! It is the more red and the more young of all (it is due to a set of very rare varieties which were used to make this wine, very peculiar. Some names of varities of grapes were unknown to me) - «nose» : slightly evolved - «taste» : a little tight, but one feels the potentiel. It enlarges in the glass. Nice acidity. Shows slightly that it has its age. Acidity of the red current - «comment» : tons of vines with unknown names. Nice testimony of a rare period of wine making
2 - 79 - Poulsard - 1915 - «aspect» : it is a Poulsard very clear, yellow. Who would say that it is a red , - «nose» : very nice - «taste» : very very agreeable, completely out of norm - «comment» : It is the first year when the grandfather of the two dirigents learned how to cut the vines. So, they kept this wine as a souvenir. It is very special, but very pleasant.

Note : it is obvious that I do not like so much the reds when they are young. But the oldest ones are immense. And the 1947 belongs to the top quality of what can be a great red.
Old wines are younger than what is generally considered
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Ed Draves

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Re: 120 wines of Jura – introduction - the Côtes du Jura re

by Ed Draves » Sun Jun 04, 2006 7:42 am

great report, thanks for sharing!
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Anders Källberg

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Re: 120 wines of Jura – introduction - the Côtes du Jura reds – a 1947 !!

by Anders Källberg » Sun Jun 04, 2006 5:09 pm

François, a great report from a great tasting! I was very pleased to read it, in particular since I was able to tour the Jura for one day in September last year. I had a very nice day!
You did not write much about the grape varieties used in these wines. Any more information about it? Do you know if the wines are made in the same way today as those magnificient wines from the 40s you had the privilege to taste?
I look forward to reading the other two reports from this immense tasting, but now I will check in to the chat!
Cheers, Anders

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