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Clinton Macsherry

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WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Clinton Macsherry » Wed Jun 21, 2006 5:48 pm

Fattoria di Lucignano Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2004

Dark, semi-opaque purple, kinda murky. Some red fruit scents are stashed under dusty pine floorboards. There’s a nice burst of cherry on the attack, but the follow-through flavors are muddled and muddy, with notes of plum, bark, and beef. I was hoping this wine – my house red some vintages ago – would be back on form after a disappointing 2002 and 2003. Two bottles’ worth of the 2004 suggests otherwise. Darn. $9. 13.5% alcohol.


Fontodi Chianti Classico 2001

An initial nose of sawdust and red meat calms down after half an hour, leaving dark berries, new shoe leather, some lingering oak, and an odd note of cocktail sauce. Prettier on the palate, with red plums, strawberries, and chocolate. Medium-bodied, with moderate acidity and grippy tannins that seem wood-influenced. Probably not as ho-hum as I’m making it sound, but I look for more brightness and elegance in CC. I expected better from this producer. $22, and I’d already bought another bottle. Darn. 13.5% alcohol.
FEAR THE TURTLE ! ! !
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Dave Erickson

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Dave Erickson » Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:10 pm

Next time, decant the Fontodi and come back in about two hours. You'll be happier.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Rahsaan » Thu Jun 22, 2006 6:28 am

Maybe this is in a weird stage, but it does see zero new oak.

I don't think it was ever a blockbuster wine chock full of fruit, but perhaps the wood-tannins stuck out because it has not yet entered secondary development?
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wrcstl

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by wrcstl » Thu Jun 22, 2006 10:12 am

Clinton Macsherry wrote:Fontodi Chianti Classico 2001

An initial nose of sawdust and red meat calms down after half an hour, leaving dark berries, new shoe leather, some lingering oak, and an odd note of cocktail sauce. Prettier on the palate, with red plums, strawberries, and chocolate. Medium-bodied, with moderate acidity and grippy tannins that seem wood-influenced. Probably not as ho-hum as I’m making it sound, but I look for more brightness and elegance in CC. I expected better from this producer. $22, and I’d already bought another bottle. Darn. 13.5% alcohol.


Clinton,
This topic has come up before when I panned the '99 Fontodi and detected oak. Evidently they do not use oak, or at least say they do not, but something funny is going on in their wines. I quit buying this wine until I hear some better reviews. Maybe all the stuff we are getting over here is cooked.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Rahsaan » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:15 pm

Evidently they do not use oak, or at least say they do not


Of course they use new oak on the higher level cuvees.
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wrcstl

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by wrcstl » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:39 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Evidently they do not use oak, or at least say they do not


Of course they use new oak on the higher level cuvees.


Rahsaan,
My comments relate to the CC only. Just have not been impressed and used to buy this every year.
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Oliver McCrum

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Oliver McCrum » Thu Jun 22, 2006 1:34 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Maybe this is in a weird stage, but it does see zero new oak.

I don't think it was ever a blockbuster wine chock full of fruit, but perhaps the wood-tannins stuck out because it has not yet entered secondary development?


The Fontodi website says the CC is aged in barriques and 'piccoli botti,' although they don't say what percent new. In my experience Sangiovese shows oak very readily.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Rahsaan » Thu Jun 22, 2006 3:47 pm

The Fontodi website says the CC is aged in barriques and 'piccoli botti,' although they don't say what percent new. In my experience Sangiovese shows oak very readily.


I'm no expert, I went to a tasting once where I could have sworn Giovanni Manetti said there was no new oak on the CC, and one of the wines were was tasting was indeed this 01.. But, something could have been mixed up in translation

But yes, drying wood tannins even from old barrels I can see..
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Re: WTN: Two Chianti (double darn)

by Oliver McCrum » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:14 am

Second year or even third year barriques can give clear oak aromas and flavors, especially with a variety so transparent to oak as sangiovese. At least the wine is all Sangiovese, though, which is good.
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