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Paul B.

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WTN: 2004 Dunavár Muscat Ottonel (Hungary)

by Paul B. » Fri Jun 23, 2006 1:57 am

This Hungarian dry Muscat table wine has been one of my favourite whites for a long time, and it's easily available in the LCBO's regular listings. It's inexpensive and very clean and well made, and really shows the beauty of applying a completely dry, crisp style to wine made from a highly aromatic grape variety - something that I favour for all aromatic grape types.

11% alc. Brilliantly clear brassy-straw colour with a greenish tinge. Lots and lots of effervescence clings to the inside of the glass. Aromas of spice and roses along with pin-point orange rind and a green-apple note. Pure Muscat aromas follow through to the palate, where roses bloom once again amid zesty grapefruits. Amazingly crisp and laser-sharp acid definition . . . just beautiful, and just what I love to see in aromatic whites. A warming, dry, crisp and cleansing finish; no unwelcome sugary add-on. About the only down side is that the flavour replay is somewhat short.

The back label suggests the wine as an apéritif, but I'd serve this with any food. The acidity and structure are exemplary.
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