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WTN: Five wines

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Five wines

by Florida Jim » Sun Jun 25, 2006 3:52 pm

2000 Copain, Pinot Noir Hein Vineyard:
Although Copain is in Santa Rosa, this vineyard is in the Anderson Valley.
Cool from the cellar: black fruit, wintergreen, fresh picked herbs and turned earth aromas; crunchy, deep and racy black fruit with some earth tones on the palate; concentrated, fine tannins, viscous but plenty of cut - the acidity is such as to give a bit of tonic water element to the texture; medium length, slightly astringent finish. Shows young, primary and has the structure, fruit and acid to keep.
As it warmed: the 14.2% alcohol intrudes as the palate muddies and the texture takes on an artificial feel that isn’t vinous to me. I did not catch any heat on the palate and finish but the influence of the alcohol is evident throughout.
A quandary; do I keep other bottles of this to see what happens or drink them immediately (and cold) so they can’t get any worse? About $40 on release; I’d not buy it again.

1999 Paloma, Syrah:
A medium weight, southern Rhône-ish nose and flavor profile with a supple texture but little nuance. This wine is 14.2% also but it seems to carry it without noticeable flaws. About $42 on release; I’d not buy it again at that price.

2005 Tegernseerhof, Rosé-Zweigelt Dürnsteiner:
An 11.5% pink from the Wachau made by Franz Mittelbach; pale salmon; light cherry and stone scents; ripe but not sweet with light cherry flavors and some dissolved carbon dioxide (I think) which perks the palate, texturally smooth and viscous despite evident acidity; clean, mouthwatering finish. Perfect. About $11; I’d buy it again at that price.

2000 Nigl, Riesling Goldberg:
A vintage that produced some nice, little rieslings in Austria but few great ones (the Steiner Hund being a notable exception) – this was massively acidic two years ago but has softened, balanced out and become expressive with a touch of RS. It will never me my favorite but it is world’s better than early on and clearly of its place. About $29 at release; I’d not buy it again at that price.

2002 Baumard, Savennières:
Stony, smoky, floral, herb tea and lime with some simple syrup scents; viscous, integrated, plenty of cut, good balance and depth, incredible length and terrific flavor complexity. Good, dry chenin is such a unique wine; powerful yet subtle, rich and still bright; glorious, stimulating juice. About $20; I’d buy it again at that price.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Dave Erickson

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Re: Five wines

by Dave Erickson » Sun Jun 25, 2006 6:01 pm

I'll chime in on the Tegernseerhof Rosé: Wonderful stuff, reasonably priced. The '05 is quite a bit richer than the '04, which was a little whisper of a wine. It looks like '05 was good all around in Austria; Anton Bauer's "Gmork" Gruner Veltliner has pretty lemon, lime, and pear aromas and flavors, and should be going for around nine bucks. I'm waiting for the '05 Strauss Gelber Muskateller, which I'm hoping will be one of those great paradoxical "fruity yet refreshing" wines, as it was in '03.

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