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François Audouze

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Bollinger RD 90, Beaucastel 82, Mouton 87, and...

by François Audouze » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:48 am

I have a friend who is a doctor, who has developed a passion for cooking. He made fantastic dinners in my house in the South of France for Sylvester’s Eve, and we invited him to spend three days in our house, but this time in summer. No cooking was planned, but he insisted to prepare one dinner.

For champagne Bollinger R.D. 1990 he made two preparations :

-velouté de patate douce au basilic

-véritable capuccino de moules au café

Needless to say that the two preparations developed different aspects of the Bollinger, which appeared to be of an immense race and distinction. The champagne had an incredible length, and was of a high class. This is a great champagne with a great and typed personality.

On a “joue de lotte, zeste de citron au gingembre, coulis de pêche blanche au curry », we had a Ermitage Ex Voto Guigal 2001. This is an extremely powerful wine despite the mention of « only » 13°, and very angulous. By that, I mean that the wine develops several types of tastes, which are exposed side by side, without a real integration, which will come certainly with age. This wine needs ten more years to become a truly great white. We appreciated the variety of the flavours and spices of this wine.

Then a delicious course came “allumettes d’espadon, oignons doux et poêlée de girolles ». When my friend had announced that he would do that, I thought immediately of Château Mouton-Rothschild 1987 which was absolutely delicious with the meat. This Mouton of an elegant but discrete year has the advantage to expose the elegance of Mouton without being hidden by the force that a greater year would have. Perfectly adapted to the fish, it shone incredibly, majestuously precious.

The “Côte de bœuf au feu de bois, sauce cacao et fruits noirs, figues rôties » was accompanied by a Château de Beaucastel red 1982 of a supreme elegance. Declaring only 12°, the wine gives the impression to be more alcoholic. Very well helped by its age, the wine has a pleasant roundness. A truly nice Beaucastel. Of course not invading as some modern versions of this wine, but giving a truly pleasure with velvety aspects.

When there is a great dinner, I like to add an unknown wine, from a more than modest origin. This belongs to my way of living as I want to give a chance to unknown wines. This one is particularly unknown as I had never read such a name : Alrokan grand vin moelleux, Bordeaux 1964, bottled by Mr Bossetti in La Rochelle. Of course, I did not expect to find a Yquem in this wine of an elegant yellow gold, rather light, but with a very agreeable sweetness that the Roquefort and the “poêlée de mangues au gingembre” helped to reveal. I was very satisfied to have given a chance to a wine that I had never seen, never heard, never known.

On the marvellous “mousse au chocolat” that my wife makes with perfection, accompanied by a “glace au poivron rouge”, the Maury 1928 Domaine et Terroirs du Sud was a delight. This wine gives the pleasure that a bonbon gives. It finished brilliantly a magnificent dinner of great gastronomy, large smiles and frienship.

For all of us, the wine of the night was the Mouton 1987 which appeared so greatly with the swordfish. Then I loved equally the Bollinger 90 and the Beaucastel 82.
Old wines are younger than what is generally considered

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