1996 Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny:
No longer rock hard but still firm; some juicy black fruit showing through, mid-weight, not quite foursquare and medium length. Perhaps, another decade? About $32; I doubt I’d pay that again.
2002 Baumard, Savenièrres:
Correct, clean, medium weight, bone-dry Savenièrres that keeps me coming back for more. Excellent with smoked trout. Lovely juice. About $20; I’d pay that again.
1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Alberic Bouvet:
Fleshing out with less emphasis on the earthy accents and more on a supple core of syrah fruit; still complex and bright but smoother, fuller and longer. A tip of the hat to Claude Kolm who, when this was released, counseled patience. (Of course, I have not been but I bought a lot of this so it looks like I’ll be able to follow its development, in spite of myself.) About $9 on sale; worth multiples of that.
2003 Laderas de Pinoso, Viñedos de El Sequé:
From Alicante, Spain and mostly monastrell; almost Bandol-esque on the nose with dark fruits, road tar and a light floral note; full, rich flavors follow the nose, good acidity, light tannins, good balance; medium finish. Good with or without food and probably better short term than long. About $8; I’d pay that again.
2002 R. & V. Dauvissat, Chablis:
Probably, as authentic and character driven a village Chablis as I have tasted; beautiful mix of lemon drop and stone on the nose and palate, excellent depth, good cut, great balance and a very long finish. ‘Killer with tuna and white bean salad. About $25; I’d pay that again.
2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords:
More reserved than the regular bottling from the same vintage but no less impressive; stony, citric, broader than expected, nice balance and good sustain. $13 and worth at least that.