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Dale Williams

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WTN: '92 Corton-Rognet

by Dale Williams » Sat Oct 21, 2006 3:15 pm

Friday was a rare weekend night off for Betsy, we had arranged date night. Went to Meritage in Scarsdale. I had been here for a wine dinner, but new to Betsy (though she had been in a previous incarnation, Il Cigno). We had a very nice meal- I started with a "duo" of pork (loin and a rillette-ish portion) with frissee and green beans, Betsy with a wild mushroom "trifolati" appetizer. She had short ribs as her main course, I had roast chicken with a foie gras emulsion. Everything was quite good.

Meritage has a very reasonable corkage charge ($10 I think). As an advocate of overlooked vintages I had carried a bottle of the 1992 Ambroise "Le Rognet" Corton. Pretty open from the git-go, with a Corton "animal" nose. The rather hard tannins of a few years ago have resolved, nice redcurrant and cherry fruit, again that touch of meat and smoke. Nice Corton profile, but still the vintage's weakness showed a tad- the wine was a bit lacking in depth and concentration. Still, while it might have been lacking as a Grand Cru it was a decent mature bottle of Burgundy, and matched well with the food. B.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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