(Mostly) Ridge MonteBello Cabs Sept 28, 2012
On Friday morning (9/28/12), PaulDraper gave a terrific Seminar, as part of the SantaFe Wine&Chile Fiesta,
on MonteBello Cab. We tasted thru a mini-vertical:
1. Ridge MonteBello (93% CS/7% Merlot; 12.9%) 1984
: Med.dark color w/ little bricking; strong cedary/pencilly/toasty/
old Cab light blackcurranty/Cab slightly funky/bretty/unclean fairly complex nose; somewhat earthy/unclean/bretty/
funky strong pencilly/cedary/smokey/pungent/old Cab nose w/ slightly drying tannins; med.long earthy/dusty bit
funky/unclean/bretty strong cedary/pencilly/smokey/oak light blackcurranty/earthy/Cab finish w/ light/drying tannins;
a bit of a funky character that seems of brett, but lots of cedary/pencilly/oldCab/complex character; not as much
fruit as the '70's that night.
2. Ridge MonteBello (69% CS/18% Merlot/10% PetiteVerdot/3% Franc; 12.5%) 1995
: Very dark color w/ very slight bricking;
strong black cherry/black cherry cola/blackcurranty/Cab/plummy some toasty/pencilly/oak classic MB nose; fairly
tart strong blackcurrantly/black cherry cola/Cab/bit plummy slight cedary/pencilly/old Cab fairly strong toasty/
smokey/oak flavor w/ smooth/polished tannins; very long strong blackcurranty/Cab/black cherry cola strong toasty/
charred/smokey/oak slight mineral/dusty finish w/ smooth/round tannins; finally starting to smooth out a bit
and showing some cedary/pencilly/old Cab character.
3. Ridge MonteBello (72% CS/25% Merlot/2% CabFranc/1% PetiteVerdot; 13.0%) 1999
: Very dark/black color; very strong
blackcurranty/Cab/licorice/pungent /slight black cherry cola/DrPepper strong toasty/charred/oak rich/powerful nose;
rich/powerful/mouthfilling very strong blackcurranty/Cab/licorice/pungent/black cherry cola somewhat earthy/mineral
strong toasty/charred/smokey/oak w/ rich/powerful/structured tannins; very long/lingering rich/mouthfilling very
strong blackcurranty/Cab/licorice strong charred/toasty/smokey/oak structured fairly powerful/smooth/tannic finish;
more pungent/licorice character than any and my favorite of these young MB's.
4. Ridge MonteBello (79% CS/10% Merlot/9% PetiteVerdot/2% CabFranc; 13.1%) 2007
: Very dark/black color; very strong
blackcurranty/Cab/blackberry/pungent/slight licorice/herbal strong toasty/smokey/oak slight cedary/pencilly/vanilla
slight earthy/dusty/mineral nose; rich/lush/mouthfilling very strong blackcurranty/Cab/plummy light licorice/
pungent strong charred/smokey/toasty/oak bit cedary/pencilly finish w/ rich/lush tannins; very long very strong
blackcurranty/Cab light herbal/licorice/pungent strong toasty/smokey/oak bit cedary/vanilla/pencilly finish w/
strong/round/lush tannins; very classic young MB.
5. Ridge MonteBello (72% CS/22% Merlot/6% PetiteVerdot; 13.5%) 2009
: Very dark/black color; lovely toasty/smokey/charred/
roasted coffee bean/oak intense blackcurranty/Cab/licorice/black cherry cola slight herbal/peppery/mineral/dusty
nose; somewhat hard/tannic/structured strong blackcurranty/Cab/licorice/pungent rather smokey/charred/roasted bean/
oak flavor w/ ample tannins; very long/lingering rather hard/tannic/structured strong roasted/coffee/smokey/oak
strong blackcurranty/Cab light licorice/herbal/pungent finish; seems to have the most angular tannins of the young
MBs, but still very balanced and very good drinking.
6. Ridge MonteBello 2011 (barrel sample; 87% CabSauv+ others)
: Very dark/black color; intense blackcurranty/Cab very strong
roasted/dark roast coffee/toasty/smokey/oak nose; rather hard/tannic intense CabSauv/blackcurranty strong charred/
roasted/oak fairly tart some mineral/pungent/earthy flavor; very long rather intense blackcurranty/Cab strong mineral/
earthy rather charred/roasted coffee bean/toasty very structured finish w/ ample tannins; one of the best young
MB's that I recall; like many MB's from barrel, it has a very strong charred oak character that will subside w/ age;
speaks very strongly of MB and will go the long haul; killer Cab.
Stuff from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. It is well-known among wine geeks that MB is one of the few Calif Cabs that is raised in American Oak.
It is not at all obvious that it is American. I've often heard people commenting on tasting the MB
what a nice touch of FrenchOak it shows (when young). In the seminar, Paul commented that sometimes
people will comment that they taste Am.oak (quercus alba) in MonteBello. He finds that surprising that
they could detect Am.oak. To which I would tend to agree. I find in the Ridge Zins, oftentimes, that
vanilla character I associate w/ Am.oak. But I never seem to pick it up in MB. Unless sometimes it's
w/ some age on it...where it displays a cedary/pencilly character I associae w/ aged Zins.
Paul sited a very old study they did in Bdx, over a 10 yr span. They put & aged some high-end Bdxs
in a variety of oaks and tracked them over a period of time. This was back in the late 1800's (well before
my time...I did not participate in the study). Back before they were using any/much oak from French forests
in Bdx. The overwhelming conclusion was the superiority of Baltic oak (a source which vanished w/ WWI),
closely followed by Am.oak. The Fr.oak finished dead-last. But, the French being French....that's the oak
they use exclusively now in Bdx.
Paul, in the early '70's, took this study to heart and pursued the very best Am.oak regime he could.
From a variety of Am. forests in Ohio/Wisconsin/Missouri. Air dried for several yrs rather than the more
rapid kiln-dried. Coopered by French techniques, split rather than sawn. The toast to the Ridge specifications.
I think they use Canton as their coopers. But they put a lot of effort at Ridge into their MB cooperage.
The MB has a distinctive style of oak to it...but don't think I can identify it as American.
2. Pricing: Ridge sells over half their MB's in the futures market, about 2/3'rd here in the US and the balance
in Europe, mostly the UK. The futures price for MB is about $85 and the release price about $148. When you
look at some of the prices, even mailing list prices (which are usually no bargains), of cult NapaVlly Cabs,
the MB prices are extremely reasonable. And we won't even talk about prices on classified growth Bdx. And this
is for what I would argue is Calif's most iconic Cabernet. Paul acknowledged in the Seminar that they realized
that they could charge more for the MB; but they want to keep the prices reasonable so that the MB is
available to people who actually would drink the wine. I certainly applaud this rather novel policy. Over
the yrs, Ridge has been very restrained in taking price increases, I think.
3. Limestone: Paul discussed the layout/geology of MonteBello vnyd and the importance of limestone in the soils.
Alas, I didn't get the chance to ask him "Why limestone" ?? Why is it that limestone soil is regarded as the
sine qua non of grape growing? I posed the question on several wine boards. JasonHaas/TablasCreek has an
excellent discussion of that very subject on his blog: http://tablascreek.typepad.com/tablas/2 ... lture.html
It primarily boils down to the higher pH of calcium carbonate rich soils facilitating nutrients (related
to "cation exchange capacity") being transported into the vine. A very good read I would suggest.
4. TheMonteBellos: I thought this was a very good tableau of MB's. Except for the '84, which seemed a little
funky and had lots of simply oldCabernet character (but still not falling apart), they all spoke very strongly
of MB Vnyd. The '84 was not decanted and some of the pours I saw seemed rather cloudy. All the wines had obvious/
significant differences/nuances that were hard to capture in words. And the tiny 1 oz. pours didn't give you much
to work with, so the notes are kind of scant.
Save the outlier '84, all the wines spoke very strongly of the slight earthy/dusty MB terroir and the Ridge
MB winemaking w/ the characteristic smokey/toasty/roasted coffee bean oak that's always there. Of these, I thought
the '11 was (potentially) one of the truly great Ridge MBs. Probably because of the high CabSauv percentage. In
fact, I suspect DaveBennion would agree w/ me on that one...were he here. As for Donn...he'd probably disagree
w/ me just to be ornery and get my goat. Of the others, my (slight) preference was for the '99. I just found it
to be in a very good place between being still a primary MB and starting to develop some nuances of an older MB.
What really struck me about these wines was the balance they show. From the git-go. Even the '11 was awfully
good drinking. I think this incredible balance that Ridge is able to achieve, year in and year out, is what
makes them such consistent & reliable agers. To tell the truth, when I taste a young MB, I haven't a clue as
to whether this MB is going to be a particular long-ager or not. Like w/ the '07-'09 MBs; there were clear
differences between the two; yet they were clearly cut from the same cloth. But I had no clue as to which one
will outlive the other. Nor could I even decide which of the two I liked better. I just put my trust in the
drinking windows that Eric and Paul put on the labels. Heck...it's all pretty irrelevant anyway now...they're
all probably gonna outlast me anyway. I don't know why I continue to buy the MBs.....but it just sorta gets
in your blood...so I do. Go figure.
We tried Fri night (9/28/12) Some (mostly) MonteBello wines:
0. Ridge Calif Chard MonteBelloEstateVnyd/SantaCruzMtns (14.1%; Bttld: 1/10; Drk: 11/09-11/17-11/19: EB)
: Med.light gold color; strong ripe/pineapple/mango/Chard/melony bit chalky/mineral/valve oil/steely bit
toasty/oak/vanilla lovely perfumed nose; tart quite rich/lush strong pineapple/mango/melon/Chard slight chalky/
tangy/mineral some toasty/vanilla/oak ripe/lush/balanced flavor; very long/lingering mango/pineapple/melon/Chard
some vanilla/smokey/oak tart/rich/lush slight tangy/mineral/chalky lovely finish; a rich/ripe Chard but good
underlying acidity that will take it out another 8-10 yrs at least. $60.00
1. Ridge Calif CS NV MonteBello CS (13.8%; Bttld: Sept'70; 65 cs) NV ('66 & '69 blend)
: Med.light color; beautiful/
complex cedary/pencilly/smokey/oak light licorice/pungent almost Bdx-like/earthy/loamy very perfumed nose w/ no
signs of any volatility; tart bit lean/dried out very cedary/pencilly/old Cab/old Bdx very smooth/elegant/gentle
slight earthy/pungent/licorice very complex perfumed flavor; very long/lingering delicate/elegant/smooth quite
complex quite cedary/pencilly/smokey/old Cab/old Bdx light earthy/loamy/licorice/pungent finish w/ slight drying
tannins in the backtaste; a beautiful/complex gentle/elegant old lady who's going to go quietly into the night;
amazing for a 45-yr old Calif Cab made by an amateur winemaker using simple techniques; thank you, Donn. $nc (DR,RV)
2. Ridge Calif CS (MonteBello; EG; Bttld: Dec'72; 13 1/2%; Drk: 1/93-?) 1970
: Very dark color w/ slight bricking;
intense smokey/pungent/coffee/roasted/classic MB/oak some earthy/dusty/mineral bit blackcurranty/Cab very pencilly/
cedary/oldCab/Bdx-like very perfumed/fragrant spectacularly aromatic complex nose; quite smooth/velvety some lush/
blackcurranty/Cab very balanced/polished/seamless some blackcurranty/Cab/lush/slight herbal strong roasted/smokey/
toasty/oak/pungent/coffee very pencilly/cigar box/old Bdx-like/complex flavor w/ light/smooth/polished tannins; very
long/lingering some lush/blackcurranty/Cab/ripe strong coffee/pungent/toasty/oak very cedary/pencilly/complex/
old Bdx smooth/velvety balanced finish w/ light/smooth tannins; an incredible mature Cab that reminds of old
first growths but still speaks distinctly of MB; fantastic balance/amazing aromatics/a perfect Cab. $29.00 (JWB/KC)
3. Ridge Calif CS EiseleVnyd/NapaVlly (Bttld: May'73; 13.9%; Drk: 10/83-?) 1971
: Rather dark color w/ slight bricking;
strong blackcurranty/Cab/ripe/distinctly NapaVlly/licorice/chocolaty some smokey/charred/toasty/oak nose w/ ample
fruit; softer rather smokey/pungent/toasty/oak very strong blackcurranty/Cab/ripe/chocolaty/licorice bit pencilly/
cedary/old Cab flavor w/ bit hard tannins; very long ripe/blackcurranty/Cab/ripe/licorice/chocolaty strong toasty/
smokey/oak/charred light pencilly/cedary/old Cab fairly smooth/lush/ripe/chocolaty flavor w/ slightly hard tannins
in the backtaste; the wine speaks strongly of Ridge MB but something seems slightly out of whack w/ the wine and
then you realize...this is NapaVlly Cab; not the minerality or complexity and a bit simpler of the MB but still
truly a great mature Cab. $23.50
4. Ridge Calif CS (EG; MonteBello; Bttld: Oct'73; 12.2%; Drk: 1/80-?) 1971
: Dark color w/ slight bricking;
beautiful/complex/aromatic some mineral/dusty/earthy some roasted/charred/toasty/oak some blackcurranty/Cab/
herbal bit cedary/cigar box/pencilly/old Cab spectacular/complex/perfumed nose; slightly tart some mineral/
dusty/earthy somewhat smokey/toasty/oak light blackcurranty/Cab/herbal smooth/polished/elegant bit cedary/old Cab
very complex flavor w/ smooth/graceful tannins; very long/lingering light mineral/earthy/dusty light herbal/Cab/
blackcurranty fairly cedary/pencilly/old Cab some smokey/charred/oak finish w/ light/smooth/polished tannins;
a really lovely/beautiful/complex old classic MB Cab. $8.69 (LM)
5. Ridge Calif CS (EG; MonteBello; 12.8%; Bttld: Sept'74; Drk: 10/79-10/84-?) 1972
: Dark color; very strong
blackcurranty/Cab slight earthy/herbal strong smokey/pungent/oak/toasty rather rich quite complex nose; bit
softer fairly rich/lush/blackcurranty/Cab strong pungent/smokey/oak slight earthy/herbal complex flavor w/
a bit hard/angular tannins; very long/lingering lightly tart some blackcurranty/Cab/licorice strong smokey/
toasty/oak fairly rich/lush slight herbal/earthy finish w/ some hard/angular tannins in the backtaste; has
more fruit and seems younger/richer/lusher than the '73-'78 MBs and less of the cedary/pencilly/old Cab
character; good fruit & good complexity and wonderful aromatics. $8.69 (LM)
6. Ridge Calif CS MonteBello (EG; 12.8%; Drk: 6/80-?) 1973
: Dark color w/ some bricking; slight herbal/earthy/
funky very cedary/pencilly/smokey/oak light earthy/blackcurranty/Cab light/delicate/low-key complex nose;
light bit lean/dried out/delicate very cedary/pencilly/old Cab slight earthy/leathery some smokey/oak very
delicate complex flavor; long bit hard/tart/tannic slight earthy/Cab/blackcurranty/leathery/herbal quite
cedary/pencilly/old Cab light/delicate finish; the lightest of the MBs and showing signs of starting to
dry out but plenty of cedary/old Cab character and still hanging on well. $8.50 (LM)
7. Ridge Calif Cabernet/Merlot MonteBello (EG; 15% Merlot; 12.1%; Drk: 8/83-?) 1976
: Med.light color; beautiful
complex/cedary/pencilly/old Cab some blackcurranty/Cab bit Merlot/plummy spectacular nose; bit tart light
earthy/mineral/dusty light blackcurranty/Cab/slight herbal some plummy/Merlot rather cedary/pencilly/oldCab
delicate/elegant/perfumed some smokey/pungent/oak beautiful flavor; very long/lingering smooth/velvety/delicate/
elegant strong cedary/pencilly/old Cab some smokey/oak bit blackcurranty/Cab/plummy/Merlot finish w/ a slight
tannic backtaste; a beautiful fully mature old Cab w/ amazing aromatics but may be starting to dry out a bit.
8. Ridge SantaCruzMtns CS MonteBello (EG; 6% Merlot; 13.6%; Drk: 9/86-?) 1978
: Med.dark color w/ little bricking;
lovely ripe/blackcurranty/Cab bit chocolaty/licorice slight herbal classic MB/pencilly/smokey/oak rather young
complex nose; bit tart/tight/tannic/hard somewhat ripe/blackcurranty/Cab some smokey/vanilla/oak/pencilly slight
drying out complex flavor; very long ripe/blackcurranty/Cab/bit chocolaty/herbal some vanilla/roasted/smokey/oak
bit hard/tannic/drying finish; really lovely complex classic MB nose but seems to be drying out slightly on
the palate; not the balance of the other MBs and probably my least favorite but still a lovely/mature MB. $27.00
9. Ridge Calif CS SantaCruzMtns (100% CS; 14.5%; Bttld: August 1981; Drk: 8/81-8/83: PD) 1979
: Med.dark color
w/ no bricking; rather ripe plummy/chocolatey/coffee some herbal/Cab/blackcurranty bit earthy slight toasty/
oak slight ruhbarb/cranberry rather aromatic if atypical nose; soft rather ripe/blackcurranty/Cab/chocolatey
very attractive rich/ripe some toasty/charred/oak flavor w/ light tannins; med.long ripe/lush/blackcurranty/
Cab/chocolaty/ruhbarb/slight herbal some toasty/charred/oak finish w/ soft/light/ripe tannins; lacks the
minerality and the structure of the other MBs and rather atypical but still going strong. $8.25 (SS/AH)
10. Ridge Calif Cab MonteBello Jimsomare/SantaCruzMtns (72% Jimsomare/28% MonteBello; 12.0%; Bttld: Dec 1983;
Drk: 11/94-11/89-11/90: PD) 1981
: Dark color w/ slight bricking; very strong blackberry/Cab/blackcurranty
slightly green/herbaceous/earthy/Bdx-gout de terroir/loamy light vanilla/oak slight bretty/leathery/
horsecollar complex nose; bit hard/angular/tight some blackcurranty/Cab somewhat green/herbal/Bdx-like/
earthy/loamy slight funky/bretty/leathery some tannic/hard/edgy flavor; med.long bit herbal/green/earthy/
Bdx-like some blackcurranty/Cab/blackberry light toasty/vanilla/oak bit hard/tannic finish; clearly an outlier
of a MB and not the balance/polish of the other MBs but still quite a good Cab; more Bdx character than the
11. Ridge Calif Zin Geyserville TrentadueRanch/OldVnyd/FoothillsSonomaCnty (100% Zin; 14.6%; Bttld: Feb 1982;
SaH: 26.5%; RS: 0.02%; Drk: 4/82-4/86-4/87: PD) 1980
: Med.color w/ light bricking; lovely cedary/pencilly/
old Zin light blackberry/Zin/licorice/spicy bit smokey somewhat perfumed quite complex nose;soft slight
licorice/blackberry/Zin/very spicy smooth/graceful/elegant slight tannic flavor; very long/lingering smooth/
elegant light blackberry/Zin/licorice quite spicy/rosemary/Italian spices rather cedary/pencilly/old Zin complex
finish; not drying out but starting to lose fruit and fade a bit; will probably just quietly fade into the
sunset over the next 4-6 yrs; a lovely/gentle fully mature old Zin.
12. Guigal Hermitage 2003
: Med.gold color; somewhat earthy/appley/smokey complex bit perfumed/honeysuckle nose;
rather hard/austere fairly rich/appley/honeysuckle/smokey bit earthy flavor; long hard/austere fairly rich/appley/
honeysuckle/smokey finish; seems to have not developed much complexity and a bit simple but needs more time.
13. ChClimens AC: Haut-Barsac (?%) Heritiers: H.G.Gounouilhou (1942)
: Dark gold bit browning color; strong orangey/
orange peel/ripe/honeyed some tobaccoy/cedary slight oxidized beautiful/complex light earthy/dusty nose; rather
dry some tobaccoy/cedary/smokey bit honeyed/orange/orange peel very complex/beautiful slightly drying-out flavor;
very long orange/honeyed rather cedary/pencilly/tobaccoy/old wine rather dry/earthy/austere very complex finish;
like most old Sauternes, it's pretty dried out but not a lot of oxidation obvious; almost like an old
Amatillado sherry w/o the oxidation; very complex old Sauternes that's hard to decribe.
14. Ridge Calif Geyserville GeyservilleVnyd/SonomaCnty (74% Zin/15% PS/10% Carignane/1% Mataro; 14.1%;
Bttld: Jan 2000; Drk: 12/99-12/04-12/05: PD) 1998
: Med.dark color w/ slight bricking; strong blackberry/
boysenberry/Zin light vanilla/oak rather spicy/earthy/dusty/licorice/pungent fairly perfumed/fragrant nose;
slightly tart very spicy/blackberry/Zin/boysenberry/licorice light floral/violets light vanilla/oak bit earthy/
dusty/old vines some complex flavor w/ smooth/round/polished tannins; long some blackberry/Zin/boysenberry
very spicy some licorice/pungent/dusty/OV light vanilla/oak finish w/ light/smooth tannins; in a very good place
right now and maybe will improve some. $28.00
And the usual inane blather from TheBloodyPulpit:
1. Climens: This was a special birth-year wine from Larry that was served w/ the cheese course to celebrate the
coming 70'th BD of MichaelOgg's and another participant. It was an unusual label in that the 1942 was enclosed
in (1942), something I'd never observed in a wine before. I don't know if it had some significance, like it
wasn't entirely 1942, or what. This was waaaay back during the German occupation of France and making wine,
with no labor available to pick, must have been pretty tough.
2. The Ridge folks were in town for the SFW&CF and to honor PaulDraper w/ the "Honoree of the Year" award. These
MonteBellos were set aside some yrs ago for a celebration w/ the Ridge folks. So last Fri was the time to break
these suckers out.
The dinner was hosted by LarryArchibald and Chef de Cuisine was LauraChancellor. Invitees were Paul&Maureen
Draper and Mark&Dianne Vernon. Other invitees were locals Michael&Barbara Ogg and SteveSterbenz&AnnaHayes.
ParkingAttendant and SculleryMaid was SusanClough; she obviously w/ the most credentials of any in attendance.
And later we were joined by GregO'Byrne, director of the SFW&CF.
We started w/ a toast & a few rememberances of DonnRiesen, who had frequently sat at this very table,
regaling us w/ stories and keeping us all in stitches. We also were here to celebrate the 50'th Anniversary
of the founding of RidgeVnyds...1962, when the four SRI scientists banded together to buy the TorreRanch up on
MonteBelloRidge and rebond the wnry. And, finally, to celebrate the arrival of Paul&Maureen's first
grandchild, Caden, two weeks earlier. And the BD celebration as mentioned above.
The bulk of these MB's came from my cellar. They had been purchased some yrs ago, primarily from PhilReich
at the LiquorMart in Boulder. I was roundly scolded for overpaying on most of these wines. Some 8-10 yrs ago,
I thought it would be nice to taste thru my old MB's the next time we had Ridge folks in. So I gathered them
together and passed them on to Larry for storage, where they'd rested until Friday. So the bulk of their lives
was spent in my cellar, where the temperatures ranged from 60F in the summer, down to the mid-low 30'sF thru
3. '66-'69 Blend: When Paul got to Ridge (1969), they had most of the '66 sitting in barrel. Alas, it had developed
a very high degree of VA/EA. This blend, one of several, was a way to salvage some of that '66 wine. And it
obviously worked very well...I found no signs of VA in the wine. Paul recounted that a few of the MB customers
(who had followed Ridge from the very start) were peeved that there was no '66 MB to buy. So DaveBennion ruefully
bottled up a few cases of the '66 on its own to satisfy these adamant cstomers. Paul has never tasted any of
those btls of salad dressing. This particular btl was gifted to me some 10 yrs ago by DonnReisen.
4. Chard: I haven't had this MB Chard since its release a yr ago. It has evolved quite nicely and the oak treatment
seems to be subsiding. Actually, I liked the recently-released Estate Chard '09 better, at this point in time.
It has a more vibrant fruit, less ripeness, less oak than the MB. But, down the road, I'd put my money on the
MB. The MB '09 has not yet been released.
Back in the early '70's, when I started trying the Ridge wines and fell in love with them; I also tried a few
of their whites (Chard/MonteBello; VineHill Riesling and Sylvaner). They left me disappointed. They were lean/
austere/earthy/chalky/mineral (all things I look for in Chard these days) and resembled nothing the rich/powerful/
oaked Calif Chards I loved at the time. About '77, I took a group of nuclear types up for a visit atop the knoll
on MB Ridge. Dave Bennion hosted us. It was a cold/blustery/overcast day and we were all shivering. After we tasted
thru the new release of Zins and were about to wind things down, I made the off-hand comment to Dave how much I
loved his Zins but that I thought hiis whites were....a bit lacking ("sucked" is the term I was thinking, but didn't
actually use). Dave immediately took this as a challenge and went down and started pulling old whites (Chard/
Riesling/Sylvaner) from the library. All from the mid-late '60's. The wines were all amazingly good old whites,
much like old WhiteBurgs and AlsatianRieslings. Made a believier out of me. Ended on the high note of a Riesling
TBA ('68?) Dave had made. Only time I ever tried that wine. Amazing stuff that I suspect is still going strong.
Paul likes to tell the story of some yrs ago, DonnReisen wanted to clear all these old whites out of their
library as being too old. Their British importer happened to be there that day, so they decided to open up all
these old whites for him to try. The guy was ecstatic...ohhh'd & ahhhh'd over them ("went ape$hit" we'd say in
Kansas)...comparing them to old GrandCru WhiteBurgs.
When the partners bought the original TorreRanch in the early '60's; there was a tiny amount of Chard planted,
which I presume was the source for those early Ridge Chards. Those were eventually torn out during replanting
to Cabernet varieties and Ridge did not produce Chard for many a yr in there. When they were replanting down on
Klein/Jimsomare Ranch; they planted Chard and now that is the source of the Ridge Chards. The wines made from
those grapes are rather riper and see more oak than Dave would have done. Yet they still show some/much of that
earthy/chalky/mineral character that was so dominant in Dave's rendition of Chard. Because of the MB and their
Zins, I don't think Ridge gets the recognition for the quality of their Chards that they deserve.
5. TNs: When you have a bunch of 40 yr old Calif Cabs, you're sure to draw some duds. Amazingly, that was not at all
the case w/ this collection. About 45 min afore the guests were to arrive, I started pulling corks and decanting
the wines. A couple of them were a bit loose and I had to nurse them out w/ the Ah-So. If they started to go
down in the neck, I took my (manual) ScrewPull to them. None of the corks disintegrated or fell apart. Two broke
in half, but I managed to get the remaining piece out of the neck intact. Any neuro-surgeon would have been proud
of my corkscrew skills. Which is why I don't fence sabre. All had very good fills save one that was ullaged down
onto mid-shoulder. As I decanted the wines, I'd pour the dregs into a glass and sample it. After I'd opened the
nine wines, not a one was flawed or iffy...I knew we were in for a pretty special evening.
It was huge fun to sit at table and listen to Paul describe the making of the wine....laced with many anecdotes
about that year's vintage. Alas, I was not able to do much justice in my TNs to his comments. DianneVernon was
sitting next to me and every so often she'd have to lean over and nudge me..."eat, eat". There were some 1-4 oz.
left in the decanters of nearly all the wines, which I took home to Susan's and resampled the next morning.
Amazingly, none of the wines showed any significant deterioration overnight, though some became a little murky.
The above TNs are a composite of those two tastings of the wines.
6. '79 SCM: This was a btl provided by SteveSterbenz & AnnaHayes. Purchased back on the EastCoast. Because '79 was not
a very good year, essentially all of the MB was declassified into this SCM Cab. Because '79 was his daughter
Caitlin's BD, he did btl up two barrels of the '79 as official MB, but I obviously never saw the wine. That year,
the grapes got quite ripe before they were picked. It was clear that this was not a classic MB Cabernet. Nonetheless,
the wine was still going strong.
7. Jimsomare '81: This was GregO'Byrne's contribution to the evening. A special release to the Ridge CabernetProgram,
which is now the MonteBelloCollectors program. In '81, they could not get the Jimsomare/lower MonteBello grapes
to ripen, so the wine was way down around 11% alcohol. To salvage this wine, Paul blended in some of the wine
from the Torre/Perrone upper Estate to get a more acceptable alcohol level. Pretty good salvage job I would say.
In the late '70's, many Calif wineries started to develop a problem w/ brett in their wines. Somehow, Paul
associated this w/ RobertMondavi starting to bring in CentralVlly grapes into his NapaVlly wnry. Ridge was not
immune to this problem of brett in their wines and some of those from the '80-'82 vintage were particularly
hard hit. By paying much more attention to cleanliness and sanitization in the wnry, Ridge had pretty much
eliminated this problem by the '84 vintage. I very rarely find any signs of brett in the Ridges since that
time. Ridge keeps very close track of the numbers on their wines and I'm sure the lab analysis would pick
up any signs of that reacurring.
8. Paris: In any tasting of MB, the "Judgement of Paris" always comes up. In that original event, the '71 MB
finished down in the middle of the pack. In the repeat of that event in 2006, the MB '71 was the clear winner.
Paul remarked that when StephenSpurrier visited the wnry back then, he casually mentioned that he was doing a
tasting of Calif wines in Paris later and wanted to include the '71 MB...which was the current release at that
time. Paul was happy to oblige and sold him the wine. Alas, he was unware of what Spurrier had planned nor
the publicity that the tasting would generate. Otherwise, he would have insisted he take the '70 MB.
It was interesting to taste these two together. I'd never done that (I've only had the '70 maybe 4-5 times
in my life) before. Though the '71 was no slouch, I thought the '70 was clearly the better of the two. No
telling how it would have done in the original '76 tasting, but probably would have finished higher. Clearly,
the '70 MB is a monumental wine and probably the greatest Calif Cab I've ever had the pleasure to taste.
9. MB'76: This Cabernet/Merlot blend was a special blend that was created in addition to the regular MB, which
would probably have been 100% Cab. They had, by then, done extensive replanting on MBRidge and the alternative
Bdx varieties were just coming on line. Alas, I did not have the regular MB in my stash when I assembled this
batch of wines. This was also the first yr of the drought yrs and the wines tended to be pretty intense and
10. Eisele '71: This was a pretty rare Ridge wine back in those days. Fortunately PhilReich/LiquorMart got in a stash
and made sure I got some of it; along w/ the regular MB'71. I had my (next to-) last Eisele w/ EricBaugher up
at Taos some 10 yrs ago. He had never tried the wine before. It was magnificant then....still is.
Along during those yrs, Ridge made a number of both York Creek Cabernet and Merlot wines. I was not particularly
enamored of those wines and thought they didn't hold a candle to the MonteBellos. Thus I didn't have any of those
to include in this tasting. FritzMaytag (owner of YorkCreekVnyd) and Paul go way back...even before their connection
with a wnry in Chile. Thus Ridge has long had special access to those YorkCreek grapes. The Ridge YorkCreek
PetiteSirah '71 was a monumental wine...of the stature of the '70 MB I think. The last time I had iit in the
mid-'90's at the BippenDesai tasting, I characterized it has the greatest Calif red wine I had ever tasted.
I would have a hard time saying that now w/ this '70 MB. I suspect the '71 PS is fading by now, whereas the
MB'70 is still going strong.
Ridge continues to make the YorkCreek Zin from Fritz's grapes. But they gave up the sweetheart deal on the
PS grapes w/ the '06 vintage so Fritz could use them in his own PS (which I have never had). Ridge still has
for sale the DynamiteHill '06 and it is a terrific/classic Ridge PS.
This '71 was the only year that Ridge took Eisele grapes. Paul felt the grapes were riper than he desired,
didn't fit in w/ the Ridge style, and passed on them. They subsequently went to JosephPhelps to make some pretty
exceptional Cabs. They now go into the Araujo wines.
11. MB'72: This was, by & large, one of the most miserable vintages ever in Calif, plagued by heavy/long/continual
rains through most of the harvest. Most of the Calif '72 reds were pretty weak/dilute wines, though, with
careful selection, some rather pretty wines were made. Because of their penchant for harvesting early, Ridge
escaped the rain damage and their '72MB was one of the greatest Calif Cabs made that year. Alas, because the
vintage was widely damned by the know-it-all critics out of Monktown, the '72MB was sorta tarred&feathered
along w/ the rest. But, when I tasted it, I realized it was something special and it's always been one of my
favorite MBs of that era. This was the 2'nd MB that I had tasted (after the two '71's) and probably when the
light bulb went on in my dim-bulb head that maybe MonteBello was something special.
Paul characterized the '72 has always being a rather tough/angular wine; though the years have certainly
smoothed out those hard edges.
12. Worshiping At The Altar of Terroir: There are some folks who loudly proclaim that the highest calling for
any wine is for it to speak of its terroir loud & clear and the sole job of the winemaker is to stand
back and not monkey around w/ the wine or interfere w/ this expression of the wine's terroir. Yet in the
Ridge MB, the oak treatment the wine receives, from very high quality Am. oak, is an integral part of what
makes these wines MB. Is the oak part of the MB terroir??? Methinks not...in the conventional sense of the
T-word. I find the MB Cabs have something unique, a dusty/earthy/mineral character that comes thru the oak,
but not starkly so. I've also seen that character in some of the MtEden Cabs as well. So, clearly, these
loud-mouthed louts who worship at the altar of terroir must regard Ridge MB as a lesser wine. Hmmmm....
maybe these folks worship a false God???
13. Balance: This word, difficult to describe, has sorta become a code word for a style of winemaking in Calif
that emphasizes lower alcohol levels. Because MBRidge is a pretty cold growing area, their Cabs have always
been pretty modest in alcohol, only infrequently going over the 13% mark. This is not so much a conscious
decision as it is just that's what MBRidge naturally gives.
To me, "balance" refers not just to lower alcohol levels but to the quality in a wine where every
component is in correct proportions and nothing really sticks out ("out of balance"). That is a quality that
I find in most all the MBs that I taste. Even in the young MBs, even right from the barrel like the '11, I'm
struck by their balance. Even though you know darn well that the tannins are going to diminish over time,
in the young MBs the tannins always seem in control. They are fine-grained/polished tannins and never seem
to be coarse or hard or gritty. I expect that comes from the gentle way Ridge handles their MB grapes. But
even when young, that balance is always there....seamless is how I describe it...and it's hard to keep your
hands off the wine.
I think that balance in the MBs is one of the key ingredients in their longevity. They usually seem to
have this very long plateau in their aging. Certainly, their character will change as they age along this
plateau, but everything seems to keep their proportions in balance. Uncanny, it is.
This is the article I wrote for the LocalFlavor SFW&CF issue. It was edited slightly for the printed edition
but contained the essence of this article.
PaulDraper: SFW&CF Honoree of the Year
This year marks my 22'nd year as a participant at the SFW&CF...from that very first one
on the Sanbusco back parking lot. If there's been one constant over those years, it's been
the presence of Ridge Vineyards. This year Ridge winemaker/CEO, Paul Draper, is the SFW&CF's
Honoree of the Year, an award highly deserved.
He will be presenting a seminar featuring a six year vertical ('84, '95, '99, '07, '09,
'11 barrel sample) of the reknowned Monte Bello, a Cabernet-based blend that is, by anyone's
definition, one of the World's truly profound wines. Tasted from barrel with Paul in March, I
thought the '11 was maybe the best Monte Bello in years. At 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, it has
the highest percentage of Cab of any Monte Bellos since the '70's.
Paul has given seminars at SFW&CF several times over the years. Because the event occurs
smack-dab in the middle of crush, it is not easy for any hands-on winemaker to shake loose for
a few days to present their wines in SantaFe. That many winemakers take such time-out for this
is a strong tribute to the importance they accord the SFW&CF.
Not that his absence will jeopardize the crush at Ridge.... Paul has assembled a staff that is
the envy of many wineries. Dave Gates supervises the many vineyards that Ridge
draws grapes from. Eric Baugher is winemaker at the Monte Bello estate. John Olney (nephew of famed
food writer Richard Olney) is his counterpart at the Lytton Springs facility. Even though these
three have "Vice President" after their names, they are, most assuredly, out there amongst
the vines and barrels doing real work. Oftentimes with Paul right there sharing those chores.
A "Short" History
Ridge Vineyards was founded in 1959 when four Stanford Research Institute scientists bought
the abandoned William Short property high atop Monte Bello ridge overlooking the Santa Clara
Valley. They then bought the adjacent Osea Perrone property and bonded the derelict winery for
commercial production in 1962.
The founding winemaker was Dave Bennion. In the mid-'50's, after receiving his
PhD from Stanford, he worked several summers at Los Alamos and made important
contributions in firing circuits. Another Ridge founder, Hew Crane, was the first engineer hired
at Princeton by Johnny von Neumann. He made significant design innovations to the first all-electronic
computer, the ENIAC; predecessor to the Los Alamos MANIAC computer.
The first few years, Bennion made Cabernet from the vines Short planted in 1949. It's distinctive
character suggested that Monte Bello was a unique site that could produce world-class wine. In 1964,
Bennion applied his Cabernet techniques to produce the first Ridge Zinfandel, from the nearby Pichetti
vineyard. Applying fine-winemaking techniques to a variety that had heretofore been relegated to jug
wines was a remarkable innovation and lifted Zinfandel to new heights.
Interestingly, in those mid-'60's years, before French cooperage was routinely imported into California,
Bennion bought Cabernet in barrel directly from the famed Bordeaux estate, Chateau Lynch-Bages...
for the barrels. There actually existed Ridge estate bottled Lynch-Bages. It reportedly was quite good
and received scores in the mid-90's out of Monktown!!
As Ridge expanded their production, the founders realized they needed a full-time winemaker. They settled
on a young man who had just returned from setting up a small winery in Chile....Paul Draper. I can only
guess that it must have been an interesting interview, based on what surely was a very thin resume.
This gamble obviously has paid huge dividends over the years.
Paul & partner Fritz Maytag were not quite finished with their Chilean work at that point. When Paul returned
from Chile; the Ridge founders, Bennion, Hew Crane, and Norm Rosen interviewed him. He tried Dave's '62 and
'64 MonteBello Cabs and was blown away. The Ridge founders were interested in a winemaker who was
focused on traditional winemaking practices; not some recent Davis graduate schooled in all the latest
whiz-bang winemaking tricks. Paul took an immediate like to the Ridge founders. It was sort of a match made
in heaven...or, at least, atop Monte Bello Ridge...which is pretty close to heaven.
Paul's debut vintage as winemaker was the 1970. And what a debut it was. The '70 Ridge Monte Bello is
regarded by many as, perhaps, the greatest Cabernet ever made in California. Paul recognized it as
something special and had as his license plate MB70 for some years.
As time passed, the four original founders were getting on in their years and less involved in Ridge
operations. So, in 1986, Ridge was purchased by Otsuka Pharmaceutical of Japan. Many of us Ridge
aficionados were convinced this foreshadowed the end of Ridge's producing great wines. Ahhhh...but it
was not to be. The Otsuka management recognized they'd put their money on a winning horse and pretty much
gave Ridge free reign, naming Paul as CEO two years later.
At the famous "Judgement of Paris" tasting in 1976, in which the Stag's Leap Cabernet bested other
California cabernets and four Bordeaux classified growths, the Ridge Monte Bello '71 finished fifth,
in the middle of the pack. The French tasters scoffed at their "mistake" and sniffed that the Bordeauxs
would surely come out on top with some age.
This very same tasting was repeated, in Paris and in Napa, in 2006. This time, the winner was...ta da....
the Monte Bello '71; with all the classified Bordeauxs filling out the bottom tier. So much for French
supremacy when it comes to Cabernet.
One of the buzz-words in wine circles these days is "natural" wine; wines made with natural yeasts,
little oak, minimal or no SO2 additions, and so forth. Some of these wines are, quite frankly, not very
good. Ridge has practiced natural winemaking techniques for years, well before it was fashionable. Because
the "natural" term carries such loaded connotations, Ridge prefers to use "pre-industrial" to describe their
winemaking. Make no mistake....there's plenty of modern stainless steel at Ridge. But its use is to
more efficiently replicate winemaking techniques used many years ago.
At Ridge, they are willing to use (rather than abuse) the latest in wine technology....the bottom line
always to produce a better wine. Their chemistry lab is as modern as they come. Every lot of wine is given
a detailed chemical analysis. But this is used only for guidance in heading off problems.
It is not, in any sense, winemaking-by-numbers. Since nearly all of the Ridge wines are blends, these
blends are decided strictly by taste...not by the numbers.
The staff tastings are held at least once a week; more often when the final Monte Bello assemblage
is being decided in February following the vintage.
I have been privileged to participate in a few of these tastings. It makes you appreciate the effort
they put into their blends. I am always struck by their collegial nature.
You take notes on the various wines you are tasting, usually blind. With Paul presiding, you
then offer up your opinions. He listens very intently to everyone's thoughts, taking more notes. But,
in the end, it will be Paul's decision to make, which he thoughtfully explains. It is, truly, a
Ridge-team effort. But the buck stops on Paul's desk.
I met Paul in the summer of '74 when I made an appointment for my first visit to Ridge, after several
years of correspondence over his wines (Paul even has a thick Tom Hill folder in his files!!). We did a
walk of the Monte Bello vineyard and then adjourned to the upper winery to taste. Joining us that visit was
Jeremiah Tower and three of his French chef friends. Tower, then in charge of the kitchen at Chez Panisse,
had not yet achieved his later celebrity-chef status. I recall Tower seemed a little peeved that Paul spent
most of his time answering my multitudinous questions.
Over the years, I've had many interactions and tastings with Paul. I used to rent a condo in Aspen with
a group of friends who'd attend the Aspen Food & Wine Festival. We'd do our own winemaker dinners at the
condo. Paul was a frequent speaker at Aspen. One night, Paul and Darrell Corti joined us and we sat
up into the wee hours of the next morning listening to those two carry on a wide-ranging exchange on a
vast variety of topics.
Of all the people I've met in the wine biz, I regard Paul and Darrell (a Sacramento grocer) as the most
gifted intellects around. Had those two chosen to be physicists, the Higgs boson would've been discovered
way back in the '70's...before Higgs had even postulated it!!!
The Ridge WebSite (www.RidgeWine.com
) is one of the best winery web sites around. It is loaded with much
information about Ridge and its wines. The Monte Bello tasting room manager, Christopher Watkins, writes
a wine blog (http://blog.ridgewine.com/
) that is one of the most compelling reads in the wine blogosphere.
Interestingly, when you enter 17100 into the GoogleMaps search box, what should pop up #1 of all the 17100
addresses throughout the World?? Yup....Ridge Monte Bello Road!! Worth taking a look-see at the satellite image.
Of course, any mention of Ridge Vineyards and SFW&CF would be remiss in not recalling Donn Reisen, Ridge's
late Marketing Director and President. He was the iconic Ridge representative at many a SFW&CF from the early
years. His death several years ago left a huge hole in the hearts of many of the SFW&CF attendees.
Donn is greatly missed by all of us.
Finally, at 75 years of age and over 40 years in the saddle at Ridge, Paul's retirement is sometimes whispered
of... with great trepidation. Though he has the greatest staff at Ridge, from top to bottom, that any CEO could
ever ask for; I simply don't see retirement on the near horizon. To my take, Paul's enthusiasm and passion for making
wines at Ridge burns as brightly now as when I first met him almost 40 year ago atop Monte Bello Ridge. And that,
to me, is an absolutely amazing accomplishment...unparalleled in the California wine business.