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Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

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Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Robin Garr » Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:23 am

"Merlot & Cabernet Franc - two great tastes that go great together (or not)" Feel free to post tasting notes, comments and questions on either variety or blends!
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:03 am

An awesome bottle of 2007 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny "Clos" last night.

Yeah, it's not cheap - priced like a lot of very, very good Bordeaux, but the quality's there and if anything, I regret not buying more of this 'base' wine when I had the chance. An amazing fragrance right away; high toned herbal and iodine notes, earth, green forestal elements and fresh dark berried fruit all combining into a scent that's absolutely compelling. There's a real purity to the flavours, a sense of real polish and finesse on the palate and impeccable balance. Absolutely stunning wine.

I'd say about as good as Cab Franc gets, but there are after all Poyeux and Le Bourg...
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by David M. Bueker » Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:05 am

I figured you would jump right in.

Lots of great Cabernet Franc out there. It's interesting that for the most part the variety was not well appreciated until maybe 10 years ago, except by a small group of hard core geeks and of course fans of Cheval Blanc.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:56 pm

Well, thank heavens for people like Joe Dressner who found some amazing growers doing tremendous things with the variety, and have been pushing the likes of Baudry, Breton, Rougeard and co. here.

Of course, I'm a little less thankful that Loire CF's getting more popular now when I see the pricing for Clos Rougeard...

A couple of other notes on recently consumed Cab Francs:

2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Franc de Pied
Doesn't have the richness and depth that made the '09 such a knockout; this is much greener and more herbaceous in its flavours with a core of pure dark berried fruit. It's very finessed in the mouth with a polished, silken texture and bright acids, and quite lovely to drink.

2002 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Mike S. brought this to a recent Grand Sichuan jeeb; lovely wine though it got somewhat lost in a table full of really good wines. A combination of rich red and dark fruited flavours, savoury earthiness and higher toned spicy, tobacco and herbaceous flavours on a polished, medium weight frame. This still feels incredibly youthful and seems to have years ahead of it, but it's a wonderful combination with the lamb with green pepper.

2001 Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Chevalerie
A lovely food wine; harmonious and mature with dark fruits, tobacco, herbal elements and leathery elements combining together seamlessly. It's very light on its feet with bright acids, more enjoyable with food than on its own and drinking wonderfully right now though I don't imagine it getting any better.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Carl Eppig » Sat Nov 03, 2012 8:05 pm

2007 Tobin James, James Gang Reserve, Cabernet Franc. It gave a great combination of red and black fruit with some chocolate, pepper, and spice along with more fruit in the middle. The finish was delightful. Matched it with Moussaka and sliced tomatoes.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Tim York » Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:43 am

Of the two grapes receiving the honours this month, I have a strong preference for Cabernet franc on its own and Salil’s TNs in this thread express exactly what I like about it. However, without having to reach out for Pétrus, I find that cool climate Merlot in a blend and occasionally 100% can be very rewarding. I wrote a note in 2007 which illustrates this.

I often catch myself despising Merlot on the grounds that many of its wines are crowd-pleasingly soft with a tendency to cloying jamminess and saying that I much prefer the distinguished rigour of, say, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo and the classy charm of Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Syrah. So it comes as a corrective surprise to note that, among the wines which I have really enjoyed in recent weeks, there are a few which are Merlot dominated.


VITIANO IGT UMBRIA 2005 – Falesco (1/3 each of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon)

Some rich nearly jammy fruit is there but there is also freshness (Sangiovese?) and structure(Cabernet?). Very enjoyable and good QPR (approx EUR 11).


LAMAIONE 1995 – Castelgiocondo (Frescobaldi), Montalcino (100% Merlot)

It has developed into a lovely and distinguished wine (my last bottle unfortunately). Full with fine fruit, refreshingly mineral notes and a silky mouth-feel leading to a firm finish no longer spiky as a few years ago. The terroir in Montalcino is clearly contributing class. The 2006 edition of Gambero Rosso states that no Lamaione has been produced since 2002.


CHÂTEAU D’AIGUILHE Côtes de Castillon 1998 (80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc)

A fine N of complex fruit with cherry brandy notes . A maturely harmonious and structured P with good focus, length, roundness and velvety mouth-feel. This predates, I think, the Stephan von Neipperg regime but even then the estate was punching well above its weight (I guess about EUR 14 at the time).


CHÂTEAU BALESTARD LA TONNELLE Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1990 (70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon)

One of the nice things in Belgium is that professional families often have good stocks of mature Bordeaux and Burgundies. This was offered to us at a dinner by one of my wife’s riding friends. The only fly in the ointment was that the wine was served in deep red/mauve glasses which prevented enjoyment of its colour.

This really lovely wine was similar in style and aroma to the Aiguilhe with real class and a slightly rounder, longer and more velvety P but slightly softer structure. A second bottle was a bit more tired with hints of incipient drying out.


CHÂTEAU SAINT-PIERRE Pomerol 1990

The one disappointment. In its youth this wine got a Decanter award and previous bottles were very enjoyable. However this one had become over-ripe and somewhat cloying and was losing focus. I regret not having drunk this last bottle a few years ago.



All this goes to re-confirm that, in the right terroir with the right supporting varieties and with appropriate vineyard management and wine-making, Merlot can make seriously fine wine with no hint of flabbiness or cloying.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Nov 04, 2012 2:50 pm

The 2009 Ch Tessier was served as the reception wine at last weeks Right Bank tasting downtown. Very pleasant St. Emilion wine for $50 Cdn and approachable now. Soft tannins, 85% Merlot, pepper, sweet tobacco, currant, floral elements, plum. Good bargain indeed.

Maybe I should think of popping another `09 Baudry Chinon Domaine I picked up in BC last June..."nice garnet colour. Black and red fruits with some earth. Well balanced, very soft tannins, delicious wine".
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by David M. Bueker » Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:46 pm

2000 Clos l'Eglise (Cotes de Castillon)
Maybe it's the glacial cellar again, but at 12 years of age this lower division wine is still young, fat and in need of cellar time. The oak is still prominent, but so is the black and red fruit. If I had more I would bury it.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Mark Lipton » Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:27 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:2000 Clos l'Eglise (Cotes de Castillon)
Maybe it's the glacial cellar again, but at 12 years of age this lower division wine is still young, fat and in need of cellar time. The oak is still prominent, but so is the black and red fruit. If I had more I would bury it.


I thought for a moment that I had some of this, but a quick CT check shows that I actually have Dom. de l'Eglise from Pomerol in 2000. Mayhap I should open one of those this month...
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:19 am

Over to the right bank...

1985 Château Canon
A fantastic bottle. Rich fruit augmented by mature tobacco, cedar and other savoury flavours; seamless and elegant with the structure fully integrated and a wonderful polished texture. Drinking superbly now.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Carl Eppig » Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:45 pm

2011 Knapp, Finger Lakes, White Cabernet Franc ($13.95 U.S.). Terrible name; should be Cabernet Franc Rose’; for it is a lovely rose’. It is almost all Cab Franc with 2% Vincent. R.S. was 1.75% and alcohol was 12%. It gave ripe raspberries on the nose and upfront. On the palate there was more fruit and a hint of honey. It finished very nicely. We matched it with extra thick broiled boneless pork chops, eggplant salad, and garlic bread. Delicious!
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:41 pm

2010 Marc Plouzeau Touraine Ante Phylloxera Clos de Maulevrier Franc de Pied (from a parcel of ungrafted vines planted in 1860)
First impression when I tasted this was 'f***ing amazing!!!'

A stunning fragrance that's unmistakeably Cabernet Franc with tobacco and green forestal and herbal notes framing fresh red and dark fruits and a savoury earthiness emerging with air. There's really impressive depth on the palate, but what sets it apart for me is how incredibly elegant this is with that super polished, silken texture I find so often in Franc de Pied wines - there's amazing richness and persistence to the flavours, yet it's remarkably light on its feet with a mouthfeel that speaks more of Chambolle Musigny than the Loire.

Flat out wow. Yeah, I'm definitely buying more.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Robin Garr » Sat Nov 10, 2012 1:55 pm

Salil wrote:2010 Marc Plouzeau Touraine Ante Phylloxera Clos de Maulevrier Franc de Pied (from a parcel of ungrafted vines planted in 1860)
...
Flat out wow. Yeah, I'm definitely buying more.

Who's the importer, Salil? This sounds like a Chambers Street wine ...
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Sat Nov 10, 2012 6:00 pm

Surprisingly, it's not.

Peter Weygandt imports it, and I bought it from his store in DC. (Around $40 - you could do much worse than calling Tim there and getting a bottle or two, as it had me wondering why exactly I spend so much on Burgundy or Bordeaux. No affiliation yadda yadda, just that Weygandt's contributing to my 'cellar filling up too quickly' problem now. :))

Getting quiet in here. I may have to open a Baudry Franc de Pied next week. :)
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Nov 10, 2012 9:29 pm

WTN: 2009 Chateau d`Eternes, Saumur Puy Notre-Dame.

Purchased a year ago, 13.5% alc, $22 Cdn, no-name producer.

Good natural cork, medium deep red in colour. Black fruits on the nose but nothing stands out, "not a lot of sweet fruits here" from across the table.
Consumed over a three day period, first day another example of good Cab Franc grapes completely smitten with way too much oak (I am being polite). Medium-bodied, very dry, herbal. green olive, not even close to being ready. "No elegance, who recommended this?". Over three day period, no real change maybe just a hint of ripe fruit but who knows and cares?
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Tim York » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:06 am

On Sunday I attended the RVF's Brussels Salon and gave priority to Loire Cabernet franc from Bourgueil's Domaine de la Butte (Jacky Blot) and Chinon's Charles Joguet, which included a short vertical of recent vintages Chinon le Clos du Chêne Vert.

This reminds me that I attended a much deeper vertical of Chêne Vert about 7 years ago where 20 year old wines were showing wonderfully well. After a bit of searching I found my TN in the old archive, so here it is while I write up the recent tasting, which naturally did not include any wines yet on such ethereal form though some may have that potential.

Topic: TN: An impressive vertical of Chinon from Charles Joguet
Author: Tim York
Date: 20050427114656
This tasting was a revelation. Having bought a number of Joguet’s wines of the 1995 and 1996 vintages directly from the estate (the best of which are probably not yet at their peak) as well as Chinon of other producers such as Alliet, Couly-Dutheil and Baudry, I have rated Chinon as usually very satisfying but did not realise that it was capable of reaching the heights of, say, a really good Margaux or St. Julien. The form shown last night by the wines from the good vintages of the 80s demonstrates that they can indeed be well up to this level when mature. And the prices are sensible; EUR 18,60 for Chêne Vert 2002 and EUR 21,65 for Dioterie 2003 in Belgium which represents far better QPR than any Bordeaux and Burgundy in the same price range known to me.

Allowing for the usual vintage variation, the wines all showed great purity of fruit and aroma allied to good structure, great elegance and, in most vintages, length. This is undoubtedly helped by a sparing approach to wood ageing (no new oak only barrels of one wine up to five). The “brett” sensitive are, however, warned than there are sometimes leather and “animal” hints to which they may be allergic.

It is usually said that the Joguet estate went through a bad patch from the mid-90s to the end of the decade following the transfer of the business from Charles Joguet to the present triumvirate of Jacques Genet, Michel Pinard and Alain Delaunay. There was scant evidence of that from the 95 and 99 tasted last night and I still feel that my 96s could open up to rival or surpass, say, the 88.

Joguet makes separate cuvées from each significant vineyard parcel as well as basic cuvées of Chinon red and rosé. The estate also makes a white from Chenin grown just outside the limits of the Chinon Appellation. Full details of the wines and production methods can be found on http://www.charlesjoguet.com .

All the wines tasted were from the Chinon appellation and 100% derived from Cabernet Franc.

- Cuvée de la Cure 2004. (Vineyards situated on alluvial gravel planted in the 70s). A barrel sample as an appetiser to demonstrate the fine form of the 2004 vintage. C: Deep. N: Dark plum fruit. P: Similar aroma with plenty substance and tannic structure. Very good balance of acid, flesh and structure. 14/20 with more potential.

Then followed a vertical of CLOS DU CHÊNE VERT. This is a 2 hectare vineyard with a south-westerly exposure situated on calcareous clay; the vines were planted in the mid-70s.

- 1985. C: Brilliant red but quite light with little sign of browning at the rim.
Glories were revealed on the first inhalation. N: Complex deep dark fruit with
hints of pencil shavings, tobacco and aromas of strawberry and raspberry.
P: Medium weight but elegant and very long with the same delicately flavoured aromas as on N. Fully resolved tannic structure with leather hints on finish. Really lovely. 18.5/20.

- 1988. C: More amber hints. N: Delicately floral with hints of fine Darjeeling
tea. P: Lighter and less perfectly balanced than 1985 with more prominent acidity. Lovely delicate aromatics. Hints of dryness on finish. Long. 17/20.

- 1990. C: Much deeper and younger. N: Fleshier and sweeter than the two
previous. P: Much rounder and fuller with dark fruit aromatics but less
elegant than the two previous with hints of coarseness on the finish and
perhaps a little shorter. 17/20.

- 1989. C: Perhaps even deeper than 90. N: A different dimension of
complexity from 1990. Similar aromas to 1985 but more power and flesh with pencil shavings less marked. P: Deep, finely bodied, complex, elegant and very long; but still perhaps a touch a green on the finish. 18.5/20 with perhaps still potential for more.

- 1995. N: A step down. Rich dark fruit but less complexity of aroma and green
hints. P: Good flesh and substance with nice dark fruit aromas and hints of leather. Marked structure of dry tannins. Quite long but (in common with many reds in France in 1995) a drying finish. Will this dry out or will the tannic structure resolve into harmony somewhat like, say, the 1988? Meanwhile 16/20.

- 1999. N: Quite simple but attractive fruit but with poultry yard hints. P: Softly
fruity and less complex and structured than the previous vintages but very pleasant. A good effort for a modest vintage. 15/20.

- 2002 (first bottle). N: More complex and finer than previous but a sour hint and faint stink (not TCA). N: Aromas showing some finesse and class but angular and lean fruit and structure with slightly sour and dry finish. Immediately there was an outcry that we had an off bottle. I wasn’t so sure because I have met other 2002s with angular and slightly dry tannins.

- 2002 (second bottle). N: Smoother and more suave without the sour hint and faint stink of the previous. P: More flesh, more fruit, rounder tannins and altogether silkier. In fact potentially very fine. 16/20 now; potentially 18+/20?

For comparison we now looked at three vintages of CLOS DE LA DIOTERIE. This vineyard is also planted on calcareous clay but is North facing; its vines are mainly more than 80 years old.

- 1986. N: Fine delicate aromas of raspberry and strawberry with pencil
notes. P: Same lovely fragrances with, to me, an attractive mineral acid freshness (others incriminated VA). Lighter and shorter than some of the other and adequate structure. A good result for a cold vintage. 16/20.

- 2003. C: Almost black like Languedoc or even Australia. N: Deep, dark
aromas but some Cabernet Franc coming through on aeration. P: Likewise deep, dark and full with dark brooding but ripe tannins and some alcoholic warmth showing on finish. Yet there was also freshness and adequate acidity for balance coming through. None of the crowd pleasing candied sweetness of a lot of 97s. This could turn into a sumptuous if atypical wine. 15.5/20 now with ++ potential.

- 2004 (barrel sample). C: Deep but more luminous than 2003. N: Rich dark
yeasty stink. P: Enormously impressive. Big but more harmonious, more typical and less muscle bound than 2003. Great potential.

It looks as if 2002, 2003 and 2004 are going to prove an impressive trilogy for Loire reds. Sadly only 2002 is likely to prove great for the Chenin based whites; the 2003 heat turned out mostly flabby wines in dry and demi-sec ranges and 2004 has suffered from widespread rot.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Brian K Miller » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:07 pm

2008 William Harrison Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford estate located at the corner of Zinfandel Lane and Silverado Trail).

After finishing a beautiful bicycle ride in Pope Valley and up and over Howell Mountain* via Ink Grade Road, we all repaired to William Harrison Winery!

The 2008 Cabernet Franc was in a lovely place. Quite polished in texture (it does see new oak!), the wine showed the typical whiff of funk...just a whiff...that I've often found in William Harrison wines. Beautiful violets on the palate and nose, with a touch of green pepper adding varietal character. Smooth and elegant, with no heat at all. A lovely wine to share with freinds!
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Andrew Bair » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:20 pm

2010 Domaine Couly-Dutheil Chinon "La Coulée Automnale"
A more internationally styled Chinon, certainly well within the current Couly-Dutheil house style. Medium-bodied, just barely sweet, with smooth tannins; shows a bit of bell pepper on the nose; otherwise, dominated by supple notes of crème de cassis, mixed berries, red fruits, and spices. Well balanced, with moderate acidity. Very good, though it may not appeal to traditionalists.

2004 Domaine Baudry-Dutour - Domaine du Roncée Chinon Clos des Marronniers
More traditionally styled than the previous wine. Somewhat spicy/earthy nose. Medium-bodied, smooth, roundish, well balanced, with moderate acidity; pure raspberry/blackberry flavors, with some minerals, black pepper, and other spices. Very good, although I don't see this as one that will last for 20+ years like the older Joguets that Tim had the opportunity to try.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:57 am

A couple of older notes from the past year or so on aged Cab Franc from the Loire. Those wines can age stunningly well.

1985 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières
This is tremendous. An incredibly pure expression of cassis and dark berried fruit that's still very fresh and youthful, seasoned with a vivid forestal greenness and earthiness. Very polished in the mouth with fine, mostly-resolved tannins and bright acids, conveying flavour with a lightness of touch and remarkable elegance.

1985 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Starts out with a lovely scent of forestal green/herbal elements, pure dark berried fruit and a touch of leathery funk, and the fragrance just builds over a few hours, gaining in intensity and developing more smoky, cedary and other savoury nuances. This is drinking superbly, conveying flavour with remarkable purity and barely any sense of weight, beautifully balanced and polished in the mouth and a compelling wine to sit down with and follow over a few hours.

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Certainly not for the brett-averse. Meat, leather, cherries, cassis and touches of green herbal notes in a nicely resolved, medium weight package that simultaneously conveys a wild, sauvage character and a sense of finesse and brightness.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Lyn Archer » Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:18 pm

As a relative newbie to this site, I learn so much every time I log on here - good stuff.

A surprising domestic Cab Franc folks might appreciate: Cave B Estate Winery 2009 Cabernet Franc, $28.

For the unfamiliar, Cave B is located in Washington's newest AVA, Ancient Lakes. I was NOT a big Cab Franc fan before tasting this wine. Translucent ruby color, balanced, moderate tannins, subtle finish - pairs well with proteins, including salmon, as well as roasted root veggies and herbed legumes. I have since been able to approach Cab Franc with a better appreciation.

Can't wait to try some of the Loire recommendations posted. Cheers, Lyn
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Jenise » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:08 pm

Lyn, there are a number of exceptional cf's grown here in our state and many are nailing the blend with merlot that produces some of bordeaux's most famous wines. Woodinville WIne Cellars and buty immediately come to mind. What may keep them mentally off our radar is that there's no standardized name for this particular blend--technically it's a merit age but the public expects anything so-called to have a significant cab Sauvignon presence. So producers just settle for a proprietary name--WWC's is called Ausonius I believe--and the public doesn't realize how often they are enjoying the blend.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Brian K Miller » Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:56 am

Salil wrote:A couple of older notes from the past year or so on aged Cab Franc from the Loire. Those wines can age stunningly well.

1985 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières
This is tremendous. An incredibly pure expression of cassis and dark berried fruit that's still very fresh and youthful, seasoned with a vivid forestal greenness and earthiness. Very polished in the mouth with fine, mostly-resolved tannins and bright acids, conveying flavour with a lightness of touch and remarkable elegance.

1985 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Starts out with a lovely scent of forestal green/herbal elements, pure dark berried fruit and a touch of leathery funk, and the fragrance just builds over a few hours, gaining in intensity and developing more smoky, cedary and other savoury nuances. This is drinking superbly, conveying flavour with remarkable purity and barely any sense of weight, beautifully balanced and polished in the mouth and a compelling wine to sit down with and follow over a few hours.

1990 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses
Certainly not for the brett-averse. Meat, leather, cherries, cassis and touches of green herbal notes in a nicely resolved, medium weight package that simultaneously conveys a wild, sauvage character and a sense of finesse and brightness.



I am on the next plane to Conn, Salil! You have quite a Loire Valley cellar! :lol:
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Fri Nov 16, 2012 5:28 pm

All weren't mine (and 2 of those were opened in NYC ;)) - though I am getting some more of the '85 Raffault soon, which I really am looking forward to.

Will report on a Baudry FDP tonight.
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Re: Wine Focus for November: Merlot and Cabernet Franc

by Salil » Fri Nov 16, 2012 8:42 pm

<----- 2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Franc de Pied
Well, this is lovely. Not the jawdropper the '09 was, but that's being unfair and expecting a ridiculously high standard.

This is a wonderful bottle of wine. Slightly green, herbal, savoury and earthy flavours around pure dark fruited flavours. Just classic Cab Franc; elegant, polished and medium weight with very fine grained tannins, bright acids and impressive persistence. It doesn't have the depth or structure that suggests it's a long ager in the vein of some of the 09 Baudrys, or something like Croix Boissée, but it's glorious to drink now with some air.
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