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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Two obscure Ligurian whites

by Andrew Bair » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:40 pm

Lumassina and Mataòssu - some claim that they are the same grape, and others say that they are two distinct varieties. While the Vitis International Variety Catalogue claims that Mataòssu is just a synonym for Lumassina. Kermit Lynch, for one, says that they are two distinct grapes. To add to the confusion, though, Kermit says that Punta Crena is the only producer left growing the real Mataòssu; what a couple of other growers are selling as Mataòssu is in fact Lumassina, which is far from common itself. Kermit knows his stuff, and I'm inclined to believe him here.


2011 Azienda Agricola Punta Crena Lumassina Frizzante IGT Colline Savonesi
Light to medium-bodied, lightly sparkling, chalky, saline, with citrus, pear, and floral notes; bone dry, well balanced, refreshing, with good underlying acidity. Very good; drink now.

2010 Azienda Agricola Punta Crena Mataòssu Vigneto Reiné IGT Colline Savonesi
According to Kermit Lynch, this wine is the only example of the Mataòssu grape in existence; a couple of other wines labeled as Mataòssu are really the closely related Lumassina. The vines here are 81 years old.
Floral, lightly spicy/honeyed nose. Medium-bodied, bone dry, crisp, somewhat fleshy, moderately round, nicely balanced, with tangy acidity. Saline, mineral, with yellow grapefruit, starfruit, and orange soda flavors. Very good, but should be consumed the same day it is opened if possible, since it lost a lot of its charm by the second day.
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TomHill

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Interesting....

by TomHill » Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:07 am

Andrew Bair wrote:Lumassina and Mataòssu - some claim that they are the same grape, and others say that they are two distinct varieties. While the Vitis International Variety Catalogue claims that Mataòssu is just a synonym for Lumassina. Kermit Lynch, for one, says that they are two distinct grapes. To add to the confusion, though, Kermit says that Punta Crena is the only producer left growing the real Mataòssu; what a couple of other growers are selling as Mataòssu is in fact Lumassina, which is far from common itself. Kermit knows his stuff, and I'm inclined to believe him here.
2011 Azienda Agricola Punta Crena Lumassina Frizzante IGT Colline Savonesi
Light to medium-bodied, lightly sparkling, chalky, saline, with citrus, pear, and floral notes; bone dry, well balanced, refreshing, with good underlying acidity. Very good; drink now.
2010 Azienda Agricola Punta Crena Mataòssu Vigneto Reiné IGT Colline Savonesi
According to Kermit Lynch, this wine is the only example of the Mataòssu grape in existence; a couple of other wines labeled as Mataòssu are really the closely related Lumassina. The vines here are 81 years old.
Floral, lightly spicy/honeyed nose. Medium-bodied, bone dry, crisp, somewhat fleshy, moderately round, nicely balanced, with tangy acidity. Saline, mineral, with yellow grapefruit, starfruit, and orange soda flavors. Very good, but should be consumed the same day it is opened if possible, since it lost a lot of its charm by the second day.


Interesting TN, Andrew. I'll look at the new JancisRobinson when I get home & see what she says.
Tom
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TomHill

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Well....

by TomHill » Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:58 am

Well, Andrew......I looked in JancisRobinson's new tome last night...developed a hernia when I picked up the thing!!
She says that Lumassina & Mataossu are the same grape, with Mataossu the preferred usage in the Noli & Varigotti
regions of Liguria. FWIW.
It could be like Zinfandel & Primitivo. DNA says they're the identical grape. But in Calif, the grapes are sufficiently
different that they use both names to identify which grape they are using.
Tom

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