Highlights from an evening with way too much wine for our table, but nobody complained. (Lots more besides the Burgs/Rieslings, including a trio of lovely older Loire Cab Francs, but I wasn't taking notes too carefully...)
2008 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg
Absolutely stellar. Incredibly pure fruit and a remarkably vivid stony mineral expression conveyed with amazing elegance, focus and power at the same time. Each sip of this tastes as if it was carved from stone, and there's so much detail and depth here that it's pointless trying to catalogue descriptors.
2002 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese
Developing nicely. Still richly fruited, but now it's just starting to show some of the developing creaminess and smokiness I'd look for in an older Dönnhoff, and the mouthfeel is remarkable - very polished and glossy textured. It's still very young though and I'll stay away from my other bottles for a few more years.
1989 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
Comes across a little softer than the bottle I had a few months ago, but this is still really good. The fruit's still bright and vibrant, augmented by mature honeycomb, petrol and smoky flavours with gentle floral accents, and there's a lovely glossy, slightly creamy texture that makes this very appealing to drink.
2001 Müller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese
Another great bottle of one of my all time favourite wines. Thrilling as ever with an amazing fragrance, exotic tropical fruits, grapefruit, florality and spice all coming together seamlessly and that '01 acidity cutting through the sweetness and richness, keeping this perfectly balanced.
2010 Domaine de Montille Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey
Great stuff. Much lighter and more delicate than I'd expect from Nuits; pale in appearance and very red fruited with fragrant herbal, floral and slightly spicy/stemmy accents framing the fruit. There's a wonderful sense of lightness and elegance here, bright acids keeping this perfectly balanced and it's really fantastic wine.
2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche
Nothing to add to my earlier praise for this. Just an awesome Burgundy with such depth, breadth across the palate, purity of flavour and stunning balance. The oak, fruit, earth and spice all come together here so seamlessly, and even though it's very young, it's very much a wow experience now.
1985 Faiveley Clos de la Roche
Comes across fully mature with a wonderful savoury fragrance of earth, sous bois, leather and saline/umami notes around a core of gentle red and dark fruited flavours. Seamless on the palate, very polished and graceful with the tannins and oak beautifully integrated and it's drinking superbly now
1979 Georges Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
From magnum. This is wonderful, fully mature and incredibly elegant - it's not a big or powerful, rather very understated and gentle with mature red fruited, sous bois, spicy and black tea flavours that slowly unravel with time in the glass, and a very polished, delicate palate presence.