Why is that almost every time there's a bottle of highly regarded Hermitage on the same table as a geeky Cornas, the Cornas seems to stand head and shoulders above in so many instances? I've had some great bottles of Hermitage from some very classic/traditional producers - and yet stopped paying attention to even a '90 Chave once when a bottle of Verset was firing on all cylinders. At another recent dinner that David posted on, I couldn't move away from a 1990 Robert Michel La Geynale Cornas, even with a wonderful, elegant bottle of '83 Jaboulet La Chapelle beside it. Am I just nuts, or just somewhat obsessed with Cornas? (or C) All of the above?)
And when a friend and I opened a bottle of each from two wonderful, traditional producers, my reaction was not surprising - no prizes for guessing which bottle we drained first.
2001 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Still very young, but so full of promise. Bright red and dark fruited flavours, savoury meatiness, leather and earth all coming together in a package that conveys both power and elegance at once. It's still rather primary and youthful with a fair bit of tannin making its presence felt on the back end, but the balance is fantastic and I imagine this will age very well, it's a fantastic, very traditional expression of Hermitage.
2000 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot This is just fantastic. The fruit's so incredibly pure, fresh and vibrant that it could easily be mistaken for a much younger wine, yet at the same time it's showing a spectrum of developed meatiness, earth and leathery flavours with floral and spicy accents around the fresh red and dark fruited flavours. Amazing balance, a texture I might have expected in a great red Burgundy and such length - just a stunning bottle of wine.