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David M. Bueker

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WTN: A Brace of Lambrays

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:23 pm

Last week Salil invited me for dinner. We each contributed a wine to the main event.

1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos de Lambrays
Of the two wines this was the more accessible upon opening. Very floral, and still lots of red fruit on the nose. The 1998 tannins are starting to recede such that the wine is more silk than hair-shirt. Air time brought more developed, earthier elements, though overall it was still rather primary. Medium weight at most, so quite elegant, and a good partner to food.


2001 Domaine des Lambrays Clos de Lambrays
This was the more aggressive, earthier model, and in fact seemed bretty for the first 30 minutes. That resolved itself, and turned to meat and dark fruit. The earthy side of the wine was more dominant than in the 1998, but not at all funky after the initial, worrisome aromas. Fuller in body than the 1998, and more balanced for continued aging, as the tannins were quite well married to the fruit.

Overall I found the 1998 prettier, and the 2001 more impressive, if that makes much sense.

We also had a 2001 Dr. Loosen Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese GK, which was good, but not mind blowing. I found it a bit too tropical, and unstructured for my tastes in Mosel Riesling, but then it was Pralat, and I tend to find the wines of that site too ripe.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.

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