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Tim York

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WTN: 2003 Kabinett from Dönnhoff and von Schubert

by Tim York » Wed May 22, 2013 6:59 am

I was not expecting "real" Kabinett from 2003, but I have these wines which need to be drunk and the asparagus season seemed a good opportunity. I remember visiting the Grünhaus estate in 2004, I think, and tasting the young 2003s alongside some 2002s. I invariably preferred the latter and felt that the former tasted as if they came from closer to the Mediterranean than to the North Sea. Both wines here turned out to be pretty good right now. However, by contrast with Dönnhoff's offering from the Nahe, the Grünhaus was distinctly fresher and closer to "real" Kabinett. I thought that Dönnhoff did a better effort with an excellent dry Dellchen 03 than with this Kabinett, good though it was.

Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett – 011 – 2003 – Dönnhoff – Alc.9.5%. This was much richer than I look for in Kabinett and lower in acidity than in a “normal” vintage, but it nevertheless showed attractive complexity of exotic fruit and was an enjoyable drink. Good 15.5/20++.

Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett – 6 - 2003 - C. von Schubert – Alc.7.5%. This was also sweeter and fuller than in a “normal” vintage but leaner and more sprightly than the Dönnhoff and showing livelier acidity and more marked minerality, thus making it the better food wine. Very good 16/20.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 2003 Kabinett from Dönnhoff and von Schubert

by David M. Bueker » Wed May 22, 2013 8:17 am

My recent experiences with 2003s have been mixed. A Donnhoff Leistenberg Auslese was more on the mark, but that should be expected from 2003.

My cellar has a Grunhaus gap, with zero bottles from 2002-2004. The wines remain very hard to find anymore. :(
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: 2003 Kabinett from Dönnhoff and von Schubert

by Tim York » Wed May 22, 2013 3:16 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:My recent experiences with 2003s have been mixed. A Donnhoff Leistenberg Auslese was more on the mark, but that should be expected from 2003.

My cellar has a Grunhaus gap, with zero bottles from 2002-2004. The wines remain very hard to find anymore. :(


I wouldn't have been surprised if the Leistenberg had been labelled Auslese and the Herrenberg Spätlese. But what else can one expect from 2003?
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 2003 Kabinett from Dönnhoff and von Schubert

by David M. Bueker » Wed May 22, 2013 3:48 pm

Even the 2001 Leistenberg Kabinett met the minimum requirements for auslese. It is significantly lighter on its feet than the 2003 though.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.

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