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David M. Bueker

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WTN: The Haardter they come

by David M. Bueker » Sun Aug 04, 2013 8:18 pm

1997 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz (8/4/2013)
This is still hovering on a plateau of maturity. A couple of years ago it was all tree fruit and spice. Tonight it's all tree fruit and spice, with perhaps more smoke than the last time. The most interesting part of the wine is the finish, which has clear, fresh orange rind elements - the fruitiness and the bitterness, and goes on for as long as you care to wait. There's surprisingly bright acidity for a 1997, and that keeps drawing me back for sip after sip.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: The Haardter they come

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:47 am

Sounds delicious David. Is Muller-Catoir still right up there with recent vintages?
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: The Haardter they come

by David M. Bueker » Mon Aug 05, 2013 8:52 am

Bob,

The legendary winemaker for Catoir, Hans Gunter Schwarz left after the 2001 vintage. After a brief false start with a choice who did not work out, they have moved on to an individual, Martin Franzen, who has been there since. I have to say I do not like the style of his wines nearly as much as the old regime. They are very well made, but do not resonate with me.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
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Jay Miller

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Re: WTN: The Haardter they come

by Jay Miller » Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:35 pm

I agree with David vis a vis the current Muller Catoir wines. They are still very good, but they are not magic the way the HGS wines were.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: The Haardter they come

by Bill Hooper » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:27 am

Müller-Catoir doesn't produce as many sweet wines as they did during Hans-Günter's time. He himself prefers to drink dry Riesling, but even his Trocken wines had a few more g/L residual sugar than they do today. His contributions to German wine were mainly in the vineyard, and M-C (and much of the rest of the Pfalz) continue to adhere to these practices, so the differences in style from past to present aren't as radical from that perspective. The wines today are a little leesier, saltier, and slightly drier than they used to be.

Cheers,
Bill
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