The Golden Gate Yacht Club is the host for this year’s America’s Cup races. It’s a small place compared to the next door St. Francis Yacht Club, and perhaps that’s a good thing.
No gents in blazers, no yachting caps, little pretense and comfortable furniture that was made for lounging and drinks. Pub food; inexpensive yet substantial.
George, Rob, Richard, Steve and I met for supper, to catch up on each other’s lives and to taste some cellar treats of the white persuasion.
1977 Drouhin, Montrachet:
Past prime but not wholly used up. Oxidized without being sherried and a bit tired. Still of intellectual interest.
Served side by side and blind:
1996 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne and the 1996 Marcassin, Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard. To several folks surprise, the Marcassin was clearly the better wine.
The Charly was past it and sliding downhill quickly; the Marcassin was alive, reasonably fresh and actually tasted like chardonnay. By the end of the evening, the Marcassin was beginning to show its leftcoast heritage but not in an overwhelming way.
Also side by side but not blind were the 1995 and 1996 Dom. Darnat, Clos Richemont Meursault 1er Cru Monopole. The 1996 was in poor shape, the 1995 better; although neither took me to any heights.
1997 Zind Humbrecht, Riesling Turckheim:
Somewhat clunky but sound and surely speaks to the producer. Adequate.
1998 Maximin Grünhauser, Riesling Spätlese: (there may have been more particulars on the label but my iPhone photo did not pick them up; it’s a busy label.)
Joyous, perfectly balanced, lively, and fresh; wonderful wine and actually fun to drink.
2006 V. Dauvissat, Chablis Les Clos:
Perhaps too young to judge but pretty closed save for that lemon drop aroma and taste I often get from this vineyard. Fair for now.
2005 Pieropan, Soave Calvarino:
Deeply complex on the nose and palate, clearly Soave but a bit more mature than I would have expected. This is a single vineyard done in stainless; for something more exotic, try their La Rocca, which is also a single vineyard but done in wood.
2010 Guigal, Condrieu La Doriane:
Smelled and tasted like bacon (surely the oak), with immense viscosity. Too early to this, most certainly.
2010 Cowan Cellars, Isa:
Skin-fermented, 100% sauvignon blanc. Since I made this, I get to taste it often. After two years in bottle it is evolving into something quite savory and the fruit seems to be slimming down. Textural, broad but with good acid and gaining length. I am happy with this.
1998 Willi Schaefer, Riesling Auslese Graacher Domprobst 375ml:
Not tired but showing mature with pretty good balance and nice acidity. A sip or two was nice; more, not so.
2001 SQN, Mr. K, The Noble Man 375ml(?):
Liquid pineapple upside-down cake; one sip for me was plenty.
Best, Jim