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WTN: Recent notes

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Recent notes

by Florida Jim » Fri Oct 18, 2013 2:30 pm

2005 Dom. l’Ecu, Muscadet Expression de Granite:
A beautiful deep, rich wine with vitality and . . . just the slightest hint of cork taint.
(Aside: As a percentage of bottles bought and tried, Muscadet continues to be the one with the most TCA. Why? Does the chemistry of the grape lend itself to the bug; are the corks worse in the area; does the aromatic profile of the wine tend to exaggerate TCA aromas; are more wineries infected? Just askin’?)

2001 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Wylie-Fanaughty:
Almost a barrel sample; carbonic, grapey with just the slightest hint of Syrah; in the decanter and back in the cooler for tomorrow.
Following day, still intensely young with little complexity but plenty of fruit. At 12, this is still a toddler.

1998 Hirsch, Riesling Gaisberg (magnum):
The last bottle of several of these, this is in top form; smells sweet but tastes dry, full in the mouth but not clumsy, remarkable depth and complexity across the palate but still of a piece, and as long a wine as I have had this year. Needed only a few minutes to open completely and stayed at peak throughout the evening. Reminds me of the heights to which Austrian Riesling can climb. A masterpiece.

2007 Ferrando, Carema (white label):
A rare beauty in perfect form; without the weight of recent Barolo and Barbaresco but so perfectly balanced and pure that it shines by comparison. A wine with which one has a conversation, preferably in the corner, alone. Stirring.

2006 Monsecco, Gattinara:
Not as stern as I would expect but still firm, balanced and fairly well open; delicious Nebbiolo, moderate complexity (but there seems to be more to come) and a simply lovely texture in the mouth. Yum.

2006 Donkey and Goat, Syrah Fanaughtly Vnyd.:
Accessible and quite aromatic with some feral notes and a good deal of complexity. An example of why I enjoy Syrah so much; of the earth but still full of fruit.

2009 Rhys, Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vnyd.:
More savory than fruit driven with a horehound sort of flavor that tastes like the candies but without the sweetness; quite long. Too early to make judgments here.

2008 Calera, Pinot Noir Ryan Vnyd.:
Very pretty wine, distinctly feminine but not thin or weak; texturally elegant, too. A joy to drink now.


Three Ribolla Gialla:

2012 Grassi, Ribolla Gialla Napa Valley:
13.2% alcohol from the Vare Vineayrd in Napa; smells of apricots and nutmeg with white fruit backing; richer than expected and fruit sweet (I don’t think its RS), developing breadth in the mouth; good sustain. Not as dry or as linear as the one I make and no tannin (the Grassi sees very little skin contact) but bright and charming. Excellent with fried calamari.

2010 Angoris, Ribolla Gialla Colli Orentali del Friuli:
13.0% alcohol; time in bottle has made a difference in both color and depth; this is darker than the Grassi, I think it had a bit of skin contact and its flavors are more bass notes than treble; not acidic but not flabby and little tannin. Interesting but not as compelling as the first.

2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla Russian River:
11.7% alcohol; darkest of the three but somewhere in between the first and second in flavor/acid profile; some bass notes, some treble but not as developed as the second; obvious tannin, as this was fermented to dry on the skins. The most complex of the three but in need of time in the bottle.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Recent notes

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 18, 2013 2:38 pm

Thanks Jim. I have been eyeing the 2001 ESJ W-F, but will push it to the back of the rack.

Hirsch does not get enough visibility. Somehow the majority of the excellent Kamptal and Kremstal produces have slid into the shadows in recent years.

Looking forward to trying your Ribolla later this fall.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Recent notes

by Rahsaan » Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:41 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Hirsch does not get enough visibility. Somehow the majority of the excellent Kamptal and Kremstal produces have slid into the shadows in recent years.


It's a German GG conspiracy!

Which is partially a joke, but perhaps also reflects the cyclical nature of things and how much great wine is out there without enough time for everyone to focus on it/drink it all??
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Re: WTN: Recent notes

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:44 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:Hirsch does not get enough visibility. Somehow the majority of the excellent Kamptal and Kremstal produces have slid into the shadows in recent years.


It's a German GG conspiracy!

Which is partially a joke, but perhaps also reflects the cyclical nature of things and how much great wine is out there without enough time for everyone to focus on it/drink it all??


I can't disagree with either explanation.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.

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