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Dale Williams

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WTN: 2 Beaujolais, MdA, and Chablis GC

by Dale Williams » Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:04 pm

I was going out, but opened a bottle of the 2011 Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for Betsy’s dinner Friday. Straightforward, juicy black cherry, a little earth and leather, a good easygoing pizza wine. B/B-

Saturday Betsy was playing in city and I had leftovers- turkey in a red wine sauce, polenta, & assorted vegetables. I opened the 2010 Clos Roillete “Cuvee Tardvie” Fleurie just because. Tight, tight, tight. After an hour or so it started to show more- darker fruit than I typically expect in Gamay, but good acids, nice balance, and a good sense of completeness. I’ll try to keep my hands off this for a while. B+ with upwards potential.

Sunday night scallops on a mango salsa, barley “risotto” and broccoli , with the 2008 Brocard “Valmur” Chablis Grand Cru. Full, rich, flinty with white pit fruits. A bit fatter than my ideal, but good. Should age, but with premOx I take no chances. B+/B

With roast chicken with carrots and turnips, sauteed spinach, and blackeyed peas, the 2005 Gauthier/Cret de Ruyere “Cuvée des Anges” . I searched for Chiroubles on the front label without success, just learned it was denied appellation. Atypical indeed, it tastes better than 98% of Chiroubles. Crunchy cranberries, smoke, herb. Nice acids, complete and ready. B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: 2 Beaujolais, MdA, and Chablis GC

by Brian K Miller » Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:25 pm

Wow. I've never even had a Chiroubles!

Given the fame and accolades that the "atypical" Gang of Five Beaujolais and related winemakers are receiving, I guess I am surprised that the AOC committees are not evolving as well. Or, is the market for fruity, confected industrial Beaujolais so dominant that wines like your bottle are rightly considered "too atypical"????
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Shaji M

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Re: WTN: 2 Beaujolais, MdA, and Chablis GC

by Shaji M » Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:09 pm

Dale,
Chiroubles being a cru, I am surprised it was denied appellation! Was this denial from Beaujolais or from the US?
-Shaji
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 2 Beaujolais, MdA, and Chablis GC

by Dale Williams » Wed Mar 05, 2014 12:56 am

To be clear, wines for any AOC need to be submitted to a committee for tasting for typicity. The Gauthier//Cret de Ruyere "Anges" was denied certiication as Chiroubles. Just as the Granite bottling from L'Ecu was denied Muscadet certification
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: 2 Beaujolais, MdA, and Chablis GC

by David M. Bueker » Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:45 am

AOC tasting panels-thwarting innovation and excellence, and rewarding mediocrity
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.

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