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2005 Beaujolais

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Florida Jim

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2005 Beaujolais

by Florida Jim » Sun Dec 10, 2006 12:55 pm

The following are my notes on some of the 2005 Beaujolais cru wines that are available in the market now. Each was tasted over the course of an evening, with food and not against each other.
Overall, I’d say this vintage is a lot like the 1999 vintage on the Côte d’Or, that is, lots of fruit with good structure and good potential for the cellar. Wines that drink pretty well on release and, if I had to guess, will never close down completely. In other words, a vintage I like.

Domaine du Vissoux (Chermette)|, Cuvée Traditionnelle VV, carries only a ‘Beaujolais’ appellation but it is beautiful beyond mere words with wonderful, fresh gamay and earth scents; a harmonious palate with nuance and structure and a long finish. Feminine but still assertive; a wine for our time and for all time. About $14; stealing at that price.

Morgon:
The Thevenet has more character and sweeter dark fruit, the Lapierre is more vinous and complex. Both are well made, the edge in concentration to the Thevenet, the edge in texture to the Lapierre.
Others have reported bottles of the Thevenet with brett; I have not experienced those. Others have reported a disjointed showing for the Lapierre and I did not get that even when first opened.
I think both of these will be more developed and complete with 2-5 years in the cellar.
Depending on where purchased, they run $18 to $26/bottle and I would buy either of them again but not in quantity.
Breton: This is lighter and more red fruit in style but has its own charm. A slight saltiness accents the palate. A friend tried another bottle and found it funky and weird.
About $20; I’d buy it again but not in quantity.

Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly:
The Chanrion (Dom. de la Voûte des Crozes), Côte de Brouilly Les Crozes is very lively, fresh and juicy with red and black fruit flavors and a suppleness that is very expressive in the mouth. It can use some time down but is beautiful now. About $14; I’ll buy it in quantity.
The Earl Alain Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vigne is a dark, brooding tannic wine with mostly black fruit flavors and a texture borne of its structure and concentration. This needs cellar time. About $22; I bought it in quantity.

Fleurie:
Dom. du Vissoux’s Poncié may be the richest Beaujolais I have tasted in 2005; concentrated, integrated and smooth, somewhat atypical for Fleurie but still carrying the aromas and flavors of the area. But with roasted chicken and root vegetables this is beyond words; one of the finest wine/food pairings I have experienced. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I’d buy it again.
The Les Moriers bottling from Dom. Chignard, is not as rich but is rather more etched on the palate and more typical in both texture and aromatic profile. But its structure is very powerful, albeit hiding at the moment, and this needs decanter time now or several years in the cave. Imported by Kermit Lynch and about $21; I bought a lot.

Moulin à Vent:
From Dom. du Vissoux, I tasted the Les Deux Roches bottling which is purple, shows a good deal of tannin and structure, is well concentrated and has plenty of acid. It’s in the dark fruit register and pretty closed at the moment. Needs 5 years but has great promise for even longer term aging.
Imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $22; I’d buy it again.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Redwinger

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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Redwinger » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:05 pm

Florida Jim wrote:... with food and not against each other.

Jim,
What a concept!! Do you think it will catch on?
Best,
Curly
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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Florida Jim » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:14 pm

Redwinger wrote:
Florida Jim wrote:... with food and not against each other.

Jim,
What a concept!! Do you think it will catch on?
Best,
Curly


We can hope not. 8)
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Bill Buitenhuys » Sun Dec 10, 2006 1:25 pm

Domaine du Vissoux (Chermette)|, Cuvée Traditionnelle VV, carries only a ‘Beaujolais’ appellation but it is beautiful beyond mere words with wonderful, fresh gamay and earth scents; a harmonious palate with nuance and structure and a long finish. Feminine but still assertive; a wine for our time and for all time. About $14; stealing at that price.
I loved the '04, Jim and this one sounds even better. Thanks. We've been trying more wines from Weygandt lately and have been uniformly impressed.
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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Randy Buckner » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:26 am

Domaine du Vissoux (Chermette), Cuvée Traditionnelle VV, carries only a ‘Beaujolais’ appellation but it is beautiful beyond mere words


I like the statement about Vissoux, Jim:

"As their friend and Michelin-star chef Jean Brouilly says, "Each terroir has its treasures, and if there is a treasure in Beaujolais, it is the wines made by Chermette." The wines are "authentic and full of character," and have been recognized by wine critics the world over. A different approach to Beaujolais."

They are indeed turning out nice wines. I ordered a case each of Chermette Traditionelle, Fleurie Les Garants and Moulin a Vent Le Deux Roches -- haven't pulled a cork on any.
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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Florida Jim » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:37 am

Randy Buckner wrote:I ordered a case each of Chermette Traditionelle, Fleurie Les Garants and Moulin a Vent Le Deux Roches -- haven't pulled a cork on any.


Randy,
The Tradionelle is terrific now; the other two I'd sit on for 2-3 years and retaste. My guess is the Fleurie will be ready and the MaV won't.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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JC (NC)

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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by JC (NC) » Mon Dec 11, 2006 11:49 am

Thanks for your notes Jim. I enjoy Beaujolais Cru and have some idea which ones to seek out now from 2005. I've enjoyed Vissoux Fleurie Les Garants in the past.
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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Florida Jim » Mon Dec 11, 2006 1:33 pm

JC (NC) wrote: I've enjoyed Vissoux Fleurie Les Garants in the past.


I'm told that vineyard designation in 2005 is for cellaring but I have only had the Poncie.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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RichardAtkinson

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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by RichardAtkinson » Mon Dec 11, 2006 1:36 pm

I wish I had your vendor down this way. Or any vendor that would stock Cru Beaujolais beyond the DeBoef line.

I had a DeBoef (Flower label) 2005 Moulin a Vent with Chicken marsala last might. Good acidity & a beautiful nose, but very tannic.

Richard
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Re: 2005 Beaujolais

by Florida Jim » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:37 pm

RichardAtkinson wrote:I wish I had your vendor down this way. Or any vendor that would stock Cru Beaujolais beyond the DeBoef line.


Chambers Street Wines in NYC (http://www.chambersstwines.com/) is my greatest gift.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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