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WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

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John S

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WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by John S » Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:44 pm

As usual, these are more often hazy impressions rather than tasting notes. I usually just make brief notes when I remember to update in CellerTracker. Lots of rieslings lately, as the Fall weather ends, and even more importantly, my wife is a big fan and who am I to argue?

  • 2011 Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères Le Songe de l'Abbé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Faugères (10/26/2014)
    Had this about 10 days ago. I was shocked at the quality here and the unique profile and flavours on show. An outstanding QPR, especially at the sale price I paid (but normal price is still outstanding). The old vine carignane in this blend really gave it wonderful texture and fullness. But it was the amazing minerality (for lack of a better term) that really impressed me. Lovely purity, concentration and class here. I had to load up after tasting this, as it was one of the most singular wines I have tasted for a while: it's wonderful when a wine can bring you out of the wine doldrums. (A-)
  • 2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/26/2014)
    Hazy notes from last night's halibut dinner. Cork closure. This was drinking very well last night. The wine has great concentration, nice balance and complexity, with a range of tropical fruits and slate on an off-dry, long finish. Still young, but it's not a crime to drink now, as it gives a lot of pleasure. (A-)
  • 2003 Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Clos de la Guiberderie - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon (10/25/2014)
    So deep copper in colour, I thought it might be oxidized, but that's not the case. Honeyed pear and apricot with lots of botrytis. Thick in texture, with similar flavours on the medium bodied palate. There a bit of complexity in this dessert wine, and enough acidity to keep things interesting and fresh. Much better than the last bottle 7 years ago! This should still last a few years, but is ready now. (B+/A-)
  • 2007 Peter Lehmann Riesling Wigan - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (10/22/2014)
    Yellow in colour with some light gold hues. Honeyed lemon and pear notes on the nose. Very crisp and clean on the medium bodied palate, with lemons, pears, and interesting chalky/minerally notes, very good concentration and a slightly oily texture. Not as bone dry as some Aussie rieslings, but still dry. Very impressive and 'moreish'. I'll try to find some more! (A-)
  • 2010 Villa Creek Grenache Denner Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (10/19/2014)
    Hazy notes from last night. I have to say this isn't my style: it was an extremely ripe, rich wine with cherry liqueur flavours and a bit too much RS for my liking. A good example of Paso Robles, but not my cup of tea. (B-/B)
  • 2008 Buty Rediviva of the Stones - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley (10/17/2014)
    Hazy notes from last night. This quite dark in colour, with a lovely, bold nose. Nicely concentrated wine, with nice complexity from the syarh/cab combination, with the syrah dominating but the cab bringing in structure and blackfruit notes to the mainly redfruits and funky tar notes on the full bodied, plush palate. Lovely now, but will last several more years easily. Glad I have a few left! (A-)
  • 2005 Mönchhof Robert Eymael Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/12/2014)
    Hazy notes from last night. This was nice, but a little too simple and blowsy at the moment. All the parts haven't integrated yet. It could also use a little more acid as well. Nice mix of tropical, citrus and botrytis on show though, although there's little harmony at the moment with this bottle. (B+)
  • 2011 Seifried Riesling Sweet Agnes Winemakers Collection - New Zealand, South Island, Nelson (10/11/2014)
    Hazy notes from last night. A bit of a 'puppydog' wine, a little too anxious to please, a little too simple, a little too sweet. No botrytis on show, just sweet fruit flavours that are balanced well by healthy acidity, so it's not cloying. Simple but tasty. (B/B+)
  • 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/10/2014)
    Light golden yellow in colour. Lovely if still light nose of floral, smoky and minerally stoenfruits and citrus. Quite complex on the medium bodied, off dry palate, with apricot, pear, honeyed apple, cinnamon and cloves: there's a slate nose infusing everything as well. Better than expected now (well integrated already), but will last too. (A-)
  • 2003 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Rheinhessen (10/5/2014)
    Hazy notes from a few days ago. No sign of the hot vintage here, as this was very nicely balanced, with a combination of honeyed tropical and citrus fruit on the medium-bodied, definitely off dry palate. Still has a few years left, I think. (A-)
  • 2003 Château de Chamboureau Savennières Roche aux Moines Cuvée d'Avant - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines (10/5/2014)
    Damn - oxidized. This is wonderful when it is is on... ( NR (flawed)
  • 2003 Château Lamothe Guignard - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (9/24/2014)
    Orange/gold/copper in colour. Not the most expressive nose, but there's a honeyed burnt orange and tobacco note that is interesting.The palate is much more expressive, medium to full bodied, with an explosion of orange, honey, tobacco, banana, creme brulee and apricot. Still lively acidity, especially for a 2003, which makes it nicely balanced and gives it a long finish. This has turned out quite well, and was a great QPR; not overly complex but quite tasty and satisfying, clearly expressing its region. (A-)
  • 2010 Seresin Pinot Noir Leah - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough (9/21/2014)
    Hazy notes. A very solid entry level pinot from Seresin, who always seem to make excellent wines. Lovely cellar door too. Opened up with some air, had a lovely balance, nice concentration and may improve over the next few years. (B+)
  • 2009 Villa Creek Mourvedre Damas Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (9/20/2014)
    Hazy notes from last week. Well, this was a nice Paso wine, but I'm not really a big fan of the style: very big, very rich, and very ripe. Some sweetness of the medium-full bodied palate. Certainly speaks of place, but this really is on that fine line of OTT. Not rated for fairness - it's not my style at all, even at the end of the night.
  • 2009 Saviah Cellars Une Vallee - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley (9/2/2014)
    The first night this was all oak, oak and more oak. The website says this gets 60% new oak, and it shows. There was some hidden dark fruits and a nice texture, but it was hard slogging to finish two glasses. On the second night, some but not enough of the oak has dissipated. There's more blackcurrant fruit and tar, the texture has softened, and there are healthy tannins. Nice concentration. This is very young still, but I don't know if the oak will ever move to the background in this quite modern style wine. I've give this several more years before opening and hope the fruit can come to the front. (B-/B)
  • 2005 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese * - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/30/2014)
    Hazy notes from last week. Still young, but quite lovely. Great complexity, and an interesting menthol note to add to the citrus and stonefruit on the very elegant, medium-bodied palate.Drier and less viscous than a normal auslese, but none the worse for these differences. Great now but will get better. (A-)
  • 2011 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7/25/2014)
    Early days for this wine, but this was drinking very well last night. Didn't take notes, but this was a medium bodied, balanced, off-dry wine with stonefruit , citrus and mineral flavours. Fairly light and refreshing - almost a 'real' (i.e., old school) kabinett in style! (B+)
  • 2009 Villa Maria Cabernet Merlot Reserve Gimblett Gravels - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels (7/21/2014)
    Popped and poured, this wine was first rather soft, with a nice velvety texture but quite modern and anonymous. The second night it was much more structured and interesting. Medium bodied with blackcurrant, plums, cherry, chocolate and some green notes, but not enough to be off-putting; still some oak/vanilla notes too, but again, it is integrating pretty well. A solid if unspectacular cab/merlot blend from the Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay. It should last several years yet. (B+)
"Tastes are perhaps first and foremost distastes, provoked by the disgust and visceral intolerance ... of the taste of others". Pierre Bourdieu (1984, p. 56)
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:23 am

I always enjoy your notes John but I am especially pleased to see your German thoughts. I too am collecting some kabinett and hope they will deliver the pleasure that I anticipate in the future.
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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by John S » Mon Oct 27, 2014 1:04 am

Bob, I do drink a fair bit of German rieslings: I'm not even close to being 'Buekeresque', however! :wink:
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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by ChaimShraga » Mon Oct 27, 2014 3:20 am

Every bottle I've ever had of Delesvaux has been deep copper in color.
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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by Howie Hart » Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:41 am

John S wrote:[*]2011 Seifried Riesling Sweet Agnes Winemakers Collection - New Zealand, South Island, Nelson (10/11/2014)
Hazy notes from last night. A bit of a 'puppydog' wine, a little too anxious to please, a little too simple, a little too sweet. No botrytis on show, just sweet fruit flavours that are balanced well by healthy acidity, so it's not cloying. Simple but tasty. (B/B+)
This is a hybrid grape that was grown in NY State in the 1970s. I only know of one grower of it locally. In the US it can only be called Seifried, as the name Riesling has been reserved for Johannesburg Riesling. I believe Emerald Riesling had it's name changed at the same time (late 1980s?). Being a hybrid, it may not be susceptible to botrytis.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by David M. Bueker » Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:22 am

I don't know, those notes are pretty darned Bueker-esque!
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John S

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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by John S » Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:38 pm

Howie, in this case Siefried refers to the producer's name (http://www.seifried.co.nz/).

It's a fairly large family winery in the Nelson region in New Zealand (large for NZ,, that is) . Nelson is just west of the much bigger and more famous Marlborough region. The wine itself is made from riesling, and is a fairly big seller for them.
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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by Howie Hart » Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:34 am

Ah. Thanks for the correction.
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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by Jenise » Tue Oct 28, 2014 11:07 am

"it was an extremely ripe, rich wine with cherry liqueur flavours and a bit too much RS for my liking. A good example of Paso Robles, but not my cup of tea"

Unfortunately typical, and why I have exactly one bottle of Paso wine in my cellar. Did you pick these up there yourself or are these wines finding their way into Canada?
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John S

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Re: WTN: Recent wine, lots of riesling

by John S » Tue Oct 28, 2014 3:41 pm

No, I picked it up on my one trip to Paso Robles. I had a great trip, thought the area was lovely, had some nice tasting room experiences and had some great meals. But this was the only wine region I ever visited and thought, "I really don't want to buy more of these wines".

That's not to say there aren't some impressive wines, but 90% were just too big, ripe and rich. That's the terroir, so there's not much they can do about it.

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