I don’t consume nearly as much Australian wine as I used to. Mostly, that’s okay, because I long ago left behind the over-the-top exuberance and hot-climate jam fruit many of them embody and I no longer drink the volumatic plonk that tastes of not much in particular regardless of what it says on the label. But I miss the good ones...
...have to pay homage where homage is due, and I recently found an Aussie---and a Chardonnay, at that---which was really impressive.
Thing is, it had all the elements of chardonnay that I almost always do not care for. Obvious sweet vanilla oak? Check. Noticeable malolactic diacetyl “I can’t believe it’s not butter”? Check. Big body and slickery/creamy mouthfeel? Oh yeah, check.
So why did I like it so much? First, because it was a remarkably balanced and harmonious wine, with all the parts neatly joined and fitted together so it was seamless. Second, because it reminded me---just a bit---of what could be its big brother, Leeuwin Artist Series Chardonnay.
I’m not sure whether I can chalk the family resemblance up to both being Margaret River, that mild and temperate clime in far western Australia, or simply a stylistic similarity working on a slightly less concentrated frame than the Leeuwin. You know what; it’s probably both.
The difference is in the price. Where Leeuwin Artist Series goes for a princely sum, the Vasse Felix Estate Chardonnay is surprisingly modest in price. For something in the range of $15—20 a bottle, this is exceptionally good wine. (Please note there are other special designate chardonnays from Vasse Felix, such as the Heytesbury and Adams Road Vineyard; these are more expensive, probably more akin to the Leeuwin Artist Series, and may not be as readily available.)
Vasse Felix Estate Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2012 is tightly structured but delicate with a chardonnay signature of mixed citrus and tart apple. Sweet vanilla and buttercream are there---but they never drown out the essential core of the wine. All the elements are distinct, but none are overdone; everything is held in perfect balance, with nothing ‘sticking out’. The Vasse Felix is simply a pleasure to drink, and it remains bright and lively and vibrant until the last sip. Declaratively new world in style, yes; but undeniably a fine crafted wine.
And please notice that this lovely and balanced bottle was preserved in all its fresh glory by a screwcap. Thank you, Vasse Felix.